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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
For the first time I attempted to bend a 90 with 2" pvc but it kinked up like crazy after removing it from my hot box. I'll just use a premade 90 when I do the job I needed it for, but if you've made a 90 with 2" could you give me any tips, thanks!
 

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bending the odd bend with blankets and hotboxes is all I've ever done. I don't know why you would want to even try bending 90s. what a waste of time, and a recipe for failure. as usual, just my stupid opinion.
 
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The longer and cooler the heated area is, the less chance it will kink.


First, use gloves and have water and/or a wet rag available. Roll the pipe around while sliding it in and out (heh heh) of the box. It will heat it more evenly and for a longer distance.

When its ready (not over done) use your gloves in combination with the water to cool it down as you squeeze/hold the OD into shape.

And....there is no way I'm heating up any PVC unless it absolutely necessary....which it is only 1 out of 1000 times.

If I had to do a bunch of them, I'd investigate those springy things that go inside to keep the ID true.
 

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For the first time I attempted to bend a 90 with 2" pvc but it kinked up like crazy after removing it from my hot box. I'll just use a premade 90 when I do the job I needed it for, but if you've made a 90 with 2" could you give me any tips, thanks!
a good set up from the start i.e. a bending table and not overheating the conduit, the correct shoe to maintain your radius. Barring that a clean flat surface of concrete, find or make a corner to maintain the 90, a sheet of plywood will work also, wet rags to cool the pvc and patience.
 

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bending the odd bend with blankets and hotboxes is all I've ever done. I don't know why you would want to even try bending 90s. what a waste of time, and a recipe for failure. as usual, just my stupid opinion.
I'm with ya, the little bit of $ you save will be eaten up by waste, wasted labor, labor when you finally get it right, and headaches.

I have watch a guy spend at least an hour on one bend; running back and forth numerous times to get 1 offset right. And in the end it still wasn't great, 2 45's would of been better.

To get to the point where it will be majory profitable will require a large investment of waste, wasted labor, ect. And as wild said, just my stupid opinion.
 

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use a pre made one as a template.
and use a wet rag to cool it down.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Wow, not much love for the hotbox, but I understand. I've used it a few times and it's been a helpful tool. I will admit I wasted a couple of hours learning how to use it though. I like it for underground but it is time consuming to do more involved bends or at least bends you want to look good. Thanks for the tips about using water, taping the ends, and sliding the pipe in and out of the box to heat a longer section.
 

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I wish I had a hotbox for 2". Hand made continous 90's and 45's look a lot cleaner than the prefabs. Anyways I heard filling the pipe with sand works. Don't hold me to it though. They also make these puppies to keep the pipe from kinking / cold bends...
look up PipeViper
 

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I have never had a problem bending pvc.
Even did the ipex factory, all in pvc so thay could show off there product.
I like using the heat blankets they work well.:thumbsup::thumbsup:
 

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Best way ever!!
Step one: one prefabed 90 one trade size larger then your conduit that you need to bend sliced open on its side to create two halves.
2) tape one end with a wet rag inserted inside and the offer just taped
3) heat pipe till it can bend without kinking. This takes practice to know when it's ready
4) place pipe inside radius of prefabed 90 elbow.
5) Velcro pipe to the elbow
6) proceed to spray conduit with cold water.

NEVER FAILS! AND ALL THE BENDS ARE THE SAME..
Works great on 4" PVC SCHEDULE 80
 

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Well listen up first yes electrical contractors bend there own pvc 90 elbows and on a regular basis . If you do a lot of decks or underground we never use factory 90 ,s because they break off concrete finishers walk on them Bob cats run them over rod busters like to break them . Most decks post tension or lots of rebar your looking at lost home run or runs broken conduits . Two couplings and short factory 90 is a joke when you doing high rise fast track jobs or a large project .Now we are only talking about 3/4 "1" conduit.

What we do is we bend them at the shop we have a jig for any size conduit .
We per fab thousands of 90 ,s they don't break during pours they bend but they don't break and on deck its worth the time well spent.Factory elbows are never used there a waste of time and the cost of a lost homerun is worth it trust me .Plus only get long bells it helps .

Now 1 1/4" 1 1/2" 2 inch is easy to fab a 90 deg but heres a trick with 2 1/2" 3 " or 4" inch conduit you want a perfect 90 your in a jam we do purchase factory elbows for 1 1/4 and up . We don't bend these just to clear that up for the comments .

But say your in a jam you need one 3 inch bent if you want a perfect elbow with no kinks you stuff each end with a pipe cap rap it with duct tape cut a grove a x cut on one pipe cap so you can insert a 2" vacuum hose .
Slide it in the 4 inch hot box roll it cook it .

Not to hot but flexible you can tell when both ends are able to drop its ready pull it out and bend you must heat it two times the length of the bend evenly not just in one spot .


Now turn the vacuum on blow you need two men on this .

One bending one making sure the blasting air is inside that conduit its like a ballon it will not kink and you bend it . Next take you water hose and cool it we use a hose with a spray nozzle . Or if were out on the slab we use a 5 gallon bucket with rags cools it no kinks and you can bend 4 inch .


Trick two you got sand on the job you don't have a vacuum or help stuff it with builders sand and bend it . Then wash it out done .
 
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