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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ya I’m not an electrician. I need advice though. I have a 4 point saddle going into a 12” offset. I calculated slightly more than 31” between bends at 22.5 degrees. I proceeded to make the first bend at the arrow and the 2nd bend at the back of bend mark. I missed my hanger by a couple inches. What the hell did I do wrong?

For the 4 point saddle, I went arrow, back of bend mark, back of bend mark, arrow and it came out correct (one joist is lower than the others which explains the downward angle)
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It's going to be fun pulling wire through that later. What you should do is lower all the conduits to the lowest point to avoid all those bends. The Code is you can only have 360 degrees worth of bends between pull points.

And anyway, you should post this in the DIY forum. This one is just for pros.

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It is not the "distance" between the bends, but the amount of "offset" between bends. You double the 12" offset and bend at 30*. No different then a regular offset, but it is laying on its side. I agree with @electrokinetix , you need to get some pull boxes in there.

Cheers
John
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
It is not the "distance" between the bends, but the amount of "offset" between bends. You double the 12" offset and bend at 30*. No different then a regular offset, but it is laying on its side. I agree with @electrokinetix , you need to get some pull boxes in there.

Cheers
John
This run is straight from a 12x12 jbox to a another j-box. 135 degrees of bend over 20’. Saddle and offset are 22.5 bends
 

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The longer the distance between bends the more accurate your bends need to be. If you are off only 2* on a 12" offset it will change rise by 1". Also I get a measurement of 31 5/16" between bends for a 12" offset. That extra 5/16" will throw you off another 7/8" of an inch on a 12" rise with 22.5" bends. How positive are you that your bends are 22.5*.

In this example lets say you did 24.5* bends and marked the conduit at 31" instead of 31 5/16". That would put you off about 1 7/8".
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
The longer the distance between bends the more accurate your bends need to be. If you are off only 2* on a 12" offset it will change rise by 1". Also I get a measurement of 31 5/16" between bends for a 12" offset. That extra 5/16" will throw you off another 7/8" of an inch on a 12" rise with 22.5" bends. How positive are you that your bends are 22.5*.

In this example lets say you did 24.5* bends and marked the conduit at 31" instead of 31 5/16". That would put you off about 1 7/8".
I use a Klein emt bender. I bend just past the 22.5 and when you factor in the spring back, it’s close. I know it’s not over. If it was over, I would be off more than I am. I guess my question is what marks on my bender should I be using? Like I said earlier, 1st bend was arrow, 2nd bend was back of bend mark
 

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I use a Klein emt bender. I bend just past the 22.5 and when you factor in the spring back, it’s close. I know it’s not over. If it was over, I would be off more than I am. I guess my question is what marks on my bender should I be using? Like I said earlier, 1st bend was arrow, 2nd bend was back of bend mark
All conduit benders come with a manual. Some have it printed in the bender head.

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I use a Klein emt bender. I bend just past the 22.5 and when you factor in the spring back, it’s close. I know it’s not over. If it was over, I would be off more than I am. I guess my question is what marks on my bender should I be using? Like I said earlier, 1st bend was arrow, 2nd bend was back of bend mark
Most hand benders would use the arrow for all the bends on a 4 point saddle or regular offset. However on most hand benders with small EMT I dont go past the marks for offsets or saddle bends. I bend until the conduit is parallel with the mark. You just said you go past 22.5", without an angle finder how do you know what your actual bend * is?. Everything tells me your are bending past 22.5*. Most electricians prefer to use their bender only as all benders are slightly different. Spring back will also be different on all brands of conduit and batches. Mostly noticeable on larger conduit and rigid. Once again on small EMT (with MY bender) I don't usually account for it much.

Edit: the back of bend(star) will usually only be used for 90s or three point saddles. Four point saddle will be all arrows.
 

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I use a Klein emt bender. I bend just past the 22.5 and when you factor in the spring back, it’s close. I know it’s not over. If it was over, I would be off more than I am. I guess my question is what marks on my bender should I be using? Like I said earlier, 1st bend was arrow, 2nd bend was back of bend mark
For bending an offset, use the arrow for both bends. All of the offset calculations are based on the center of the bends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Most hand benders would use the arrow for all the bends on a 4 point saddle or regular offset. However on most hand benders with small EMT I dont go past the marks for offsets or saddle bends. I bend until the conduit is parallel with the mark. You just said you go past 22.5", without an angle finder how do you know what your actual bend * is?. Everything tells me your are bending past 22.5*. Most electricians prefer to use their bender only as all benders are slightly different. Spring back will also be different on all brands of conduit and batches. Mostly noticeable on larger conduit and rigid. Once again on small EMT (with MY bender) I don't usually account for it much.

Edit: the back of bend(star) will usually only be used for 90s or three point saddles. Four point saddle will be all arrows.
The Klein has angle marks on the bender. New ones have an angle setter which you fit in the cradle of the bender. I think my mistake is I marked 31 5/16” and used those marks at the arrow and back of bend. I think I need to use the arrow for the first bend and then deduct 5” for the 2nd bend.
 

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I don't work with much large conduit but if I do I try not to make bends where they are not needed. Instead I find ways to support the run to eliminate bends.
When bending 1/2 or 3/4" EMT it's not really a big deal because you can adjust your bends if they are over or under. For exposed runs that need to look nice and neat I take more time and measure twice. In the example above there really was no need to bend a saddle as it would have been better to just roll the first offset and eliminate 2 bends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I don't work with much large conduit but if I do I try not to make bends where they are not needed. Instead I find ways to support the run to eliminate bends.
When bending 1/2 or 3/4" EMT it's not really a big deal because you can adjust your bends if they are over or under. For exposed runs that need to look nice and neat I take more time and measure twice. In the example above there really was no need to bend a saddle as it would have been better to just roll the first offset and eliminate 2 bends.
The purpose of that offset was to allow easier hvac duct installation and any future water or gas pipes. I want the electrical system to be below all the other mechanical systems
 

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Kudos to you for trying to bend pipe. In my house on a subpanel and stove run I just used ENT and clamped it up where I wanted it.
 

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The Klein has angle marks on the bender. New ones have an angle setter which you fit in the cradle of the bender. I think my mistake is I marked 31 5/16” and used those marks at the arrow and back of bend. I think I need to use the arrow for the first bend and then deduct 5” for the 2nd bend.
You don't deduct anything, and you only use arrows. The multiplier for 22.5 degree bends is 2.6.
 

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You don't deduct anything, and you only use arrows. The multiplier for 22.5 degree bends is 2.6.
Correct. Use the SAME mark/arrow whatever, for all bends of your offset/saddle. And keep the conduit in the bender pointing the same direction. In other words, make all your bends without removing the conduit from the bender.

Also, multiply 2.6 times the centerline of your offset, which is the amount of the object you wish to clear.

Steve
 

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Correct. Use the SAME mark/arrow whatever, for all bends of your offset/saddle. And keep the conduit in the bender pointing the same direction. In other words, make all your bends without removing the conduit from the bender.

Also, multiply 2.6 times the centerline of your offset, which is the amount of the object you wish to clear.

Steve
Hows that again? 🤣
Conduit.jpg
 
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