Best floor receptacle?

44766 Views 26 Replies 19 Participants Last post by egads, Nov 25, 2010

chenley

Discussion Starter · Apr 1, 2008

Seen ads for them in the Electrical Contractor magazine, just never really have them much thought since in the past five years have never had a need to install one.

Ended up getting a call from my attorney yesterday and he asked if I had the time to install a floor receptacle in his living room for a table lamp. Told me it's on the first floor with a rather large crawlspace. So it should be a pretty simple task.

Just wondering what floor receptacles you guys prefer for residential?

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

KayJay

· #2 · Apr 1, 2008

I normally like to use the ones from Lew Electric that come with the brass flip up covers. I have used the Carlon a couple of times, but that ivory colored plastic flip up cover can be a real eye sore if its going to be installed where it can be seen.
If your on the 2008 NEC in your area you may have to change the supplied duplex receptacle to a Tamper Resistant one because I don’t know if they come through with TR receptacles yet.

RICK BOYD

· #3 · Apr 1, 2008

floor recepticles = fire

Ended up getting a call from my attorney yesterday and he asked if I had the time to install a floor receptacle in his living room for a table lamp.

Just wondering what floor receptacles you guys prefer for residential?

I dont like floor plugs! but

dont use a duplex, use a single so nothing can fall in the open hole.
and don't worry about the lawyer suing you if it turns out badly!

480sparky

· #4 · Apr 1, 2008

RICK BOYD said:
dont use a duplex, use a single so nothing can fall in the open hole.
and don't worry about the lawyer suing you if it turns out badly!

He may need a duplex if he wants a split (half-hot) receptacle.

Most floor outlets have individual covers over each receptacle, so even if one receptacle is used, the other is covered.

frank

· #5 · Apr 1, 2008

You sure you want to work for an Attorney? Tell him your too busy. OR if you do the work be sure to charge him the rate he charges you. $500 per hour - plus expenses of course

Frank

gilbequick

· #6 · Apr 1, 2008

I've always used Lew, but the thing I don't like about them is that there's NO room for error. There's no outer lip to the floor box cover that covers the hole you cut, the entire unit slides into the hole. And because of that, it takes time to get it level and even with the finished floor. If there was a thin or tapered outer lip that covered the hole you cut it would make it a lot easier and much faster to install.

chenley

Discussion Starter · #7 · Apr 1, 2008

Would be nice if I could charge the attorney what he charges me. I also know that I wouldn't want to be on his bad side. As I've seen him on the phone, he's quick and precise with his wording that's what I like about him.

I like what I saw on Lew Electric's website. Figured beforehand that either a steel or brass cover would need to be installed, since I could see plastic being broken easily.

Gilbequick: Is it possible to cut the floor with a hole saw or are none really sized for this particular installation? Would making a couple practice holes on some 3/4" OSB be beneficial? I always figured they had some kind of lip to them to hide the cut.

KayJay

· #8 · Apr 2, 2008

The Lew SWB2LR and 612-RSS-2 use rectangular floor boxes that you cut in similar to ordinary switch boxes. One has a round cover and the other has a rectangular cover, your choice. These brass double flip top covers have enough overhang around them to completely cover the floor box, much as a duplex plate covers a standard 1-gang switch box.
The round boxes like the 812DFB are the ones that require very precise holes, especially in hardwood floors where there is no carpeting to tuck under and hide the edge. Lew sells a special double-blade hole saw for them if you want. Since it sounds like this might just be a one and done installation, you may be ahead of the game going with one of the ones mentioned above. Good luck.

gilbequick

· #9 · Apr 6, 2008 (Edited)

chenley said:
Gilbequick: Is it possible to cut the floor with a hole saw or are none really sized for this particular installation? Would making a couple practice holes on some 3/4" OSB be beneficial? I always figured they had some kind of lip to them to hide the cut.

Yes you use hole saws. 4'' for the larger hole and I can't remember the size for the smaller one, I think it's 3 1/4'' but not positive, but it does take 2 sizes. The ones I use are designed to sit perfectly flush with the floor....no lip. Due to the way they sit in the floor, practice cuts in 3/4 won't do you any good. What you can do is screw 2 pieces of 3/4 together and practice like that.

You have to cut perfectly level up and down and side to side or else the box won't sit right in the floor. Be careful to not let the hole saw jump! After you get the holes cut, you'll probably have to raise it up to be level with the finished floor. What I do is put 4 screws underneath the box (inbetween the box and the subfloor) and level it up with those. Also, I always carry a few shades of floor putty to cover any imperfections when cutting them in finished floors. You can't tell there are any chips unless you're laying down on the floor staring at it.

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chenley

Discussion Starter · #10 · Apr 6, 2008

Thanks for the info everyone. Meeting with him Monday and wanted to get all the info I could and some prices for him.

TTTranch

· #11 · May 1, 2008

Oil rubbed bronze

Hello everyone, I was just wondering if anyone knew where I could find "Oil rubbed bronze" floor plates and the corresponding boxes? Any help would be great...thank you

LeeB

· #12 · May 1, 2008

We have had good luck with steel city (Thomas & Betts) which makes an after construction type for use in existing wood joists.

te12co2w

· #13 · May 1, 2008

I also have been using Lew, that's what the suppliers seem to favor, and I second the opinion that things have to be perfect or the finish won't look right. We recently used 2 in a residential concrete floor and had the level and height right but the concrete pulled away from the edges and had to use carpet flanges to cover it up.

randomkiller

· #14 · May 2, 2008

But for that type of box, it has to be heavy duty and hold up. Lew is the way to go for a quality product. I have seen so many that are crushed down into the floor in offices with broken plates and they are always the cheap cast ones.

Beartastic

· #15 · Nov 24, 2010

How to install LEW 812

It is not obvious to me from the pictures in the Lew catalog as to how secure the LEW 812 to the underneath of the subfloor or anything else for that matter. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks.

Dennis Alwon

· #16 · Nov 24, 2010

I should get stock in sillite recep. since I push them all the time. Take a look at this from sillite.com
They are TR also.

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Al13Cu29

· #17 · Nov 24, 2010

gilbequick said:
Yes you use hole saws. 4'' for the larger hole and I can't remember the size for the smaller one, I think it's 3 1/4'' but not positive, but it does take 2 sizes. The ones I use are designed to sit perfectly flush with the floor....no lip. Due to the way they sit in the floor, practice cuts in 3/4 won't do you any good. What you can do is screw 2 pieces of 3/4 together and practice like that.

You have to cut perfectly level up and down and side to side or else the box won't sit right in the floor. Be careful to not let the hole saw jump! After you get the holes cut, you'll probably have to raise it up to be level with the finished floor. What I do is put 4 screws underneath the box (inbetween the box and the subfloor) and level it up with those. Also, I always carry a few shades of floor putty to cover any imperfections when cutting them in finished floors. You can't tell there are any chips unless you're laying down on the floor staring at it.

I, also have used the Lew floor outlets many times over the years. If you have hardwood floors and is going with the two hole saw method. Start with the outside hole first, go very level, to the length of the lip (about 3/5", I always double check with the box in hand). After the 1st hole, cut the small hole. I then use a small wood chisel to cut the space for the lip. I use the screws, if needed, for leveling.

For carpet; Most of the time, the carpet is thick enough to just cut the small hole (I cut backwards at first, to cut the carpet and padding, then forward to cut the sub-floor) and mound the box on to the sub-floor, clamping the carpet between the the box and sub-floor. The carpet being thick, covers the side of the lip.

Al13Cu29

· #18 · Nov 24, 2010 (Edited)

Dennis Alwon said:
I should get stock in sillite recep. since I push them all the time. Take a look at this from sillite.com
They are TR also.

Good idea, Do they trade on the market? If so, what's their symbols? :thumbsup:

Jlarson

· #19 · Nov 24, 2010

Dennis Alwon said:
I should get stock in sillite recep. since I push them all the time.

I figured you already had some serious interest in sillite. :laughing:

Dennis Alwon

· #20 · Nov 24, 2010

Jlarson said:
I figured you already had some serious interest in sillite. :laughing:

Interesting story. I called the company and introduced myself. The owner said I know you--- Puzzled as I was, he stated that he had done a search for his product on the internet and my posts kept coming up. I asked if I got a discount for the free advertising.

1 - 20 of 27 Posts

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