[99cents]

I hardly ever do renos on houses old enough to have lath and plaster but I'm doing one right now.

I normally use F-clips but they won't work on walls this thick. What's my Plan B?

 

[FrunkSlammer]

Can't say it's the best, but I almost always use these e-z boxes..
I think they only work to about 1" though.

I use these on cabinets where the wood is built up..

 

[zac]

I hardly ever do renos on houses old enough to have lath and plaster but I'm doing one right now.

I normally use F-clips but they won't work on walls this thick. What's my Plan B?

I just finished one and used tiger boxes. A few of course I had to put a bracket box and mud ring on.

 

[guy2073]

I use any plastic box, but i normaly have to tin snip 1/4" off the plastic tabs to get my depth. I use my osculating tool to cut the plaster and lath to keep damage to a minimum.

There is a company that makes a tan remod box with metal tabs, they work great but hard to find.
http://www.alliedmoulded.com/index....egory/template/products_sub_res/categoryid/50

 

[99cents]

I think I'll make my hole and then get the GC to glue a 2 X 2 inside the wall beside the box with some PL400.

 

[220/221]

If you are using romex, the clips on these are are plenty deep for lathe/plaster. Slater brand.

I think I'll make my hole and then get the GC to glue a 2 X 2 inside the wall beside the box with some PL400.

Just screw the backing into place thru the plaster/lathe. Two little drywall screw heads are simple to patch/fill.

 

[Joefixit2]

If you are using romex, the clips on these are are plenty deep for lathe/plaster. Slater brand.

Just screw the backing into place thru the plaster/lathe. Two little drywall screw heads are simple to patch/fill.

I've been using those for years on plaster lath, they work great for switches. For receptacles we always cut in right alongside a stud. This way you can use a "Smart Box" and screw it right to the stud.

 

[Darkness into light]

They make F clips with longer fingers. These were the best I found. You can take standard F clips and fold them together to obtain longer fingers, but it builds up a little thickness to them and I will use these as last resort if I don't have a longer fingered F clips

 

[Going_Commando]

Use steel boxes with plaster ears and use #4 wood screws into the lathe. Done it hundreds if not thousands of times.

 

[Sparky J]

The only problem with the Slater boxes is depth inside the plaster walls sometimes they are too deep.

 

[220/221]

The only problem with the Slater boxes is depth inside the plaster walls sometimes they are too deep.

Really? I've never seen skinny studs in old houses around here. I have run across them one time in an early production model early 60's era house.

 

[FrunkSlammer]

Around here lath and plaster houses have real 2x4's.

 

[guy2073]

Around here alot of interior walls are turned 2x4 walls.

 

[chicken steve]

I've been using those for years on plaster lath, they work great for switches. For receptacles we always cut in right alongside a stud. This way you can use a "Smart Box" and screw it right to the stud.

We just screw right through them into stud

kind of a pre-smart box technique

~CS~

 

[Sparky J]

Really? I've never seen skinny studs in old houses around here. I have run across them one time in an early production model early 60's era house.

I had one a few months back it was 2"x3"s but with the plaster and lath depth it almost fit. I had to give the fingers that met the back of the box a little persuasion with my multi-master.
But yes I do like the longer screws that they have. Only complaint is the stupid push ins for quicker screwing in. My suppliers only get them not the regulars and I have a few or use up before I can get regulars.

 

[kbsparky]

Around here lath and plaster houses have real 2x4's.

Around here alot of interior walls are turned 2x4 walls.

Persactly. Many interior (non-load-bearing) walls were built with the studs "sideways" to increase usable space. Makes it difficult to use any kind of deep box when adding wiring later on.

 

[nrp3]

I have been using a rotozip with tile bit to cut out the plaster and then the wood bit to cut the lathe behind. Keep the vacuum handy because its a little messy. I do it this way in order to not crack the plaster. I use what ever depth metal old work box will fit, deeper the better. I use a small bit to predrill for small woodscrews so the lathe won't split.

 

[Joefixit2]

I have been using a rotozip with tile bit to cut out the plaster and then the wood bit to cut the lathe behind. Keep the vacuum handy because its a little messy. I do it this way in order to not crack the plaster. I use what ever depth metal old work box will fit, deeper the better. I use a small bit to predrill for small woodscrews so the lathe won't split.

Seems like that would take a while. I like to use a grinder with a 4" diamond blade and a good shop vac. Makes a real clean straight cut with no cracks. Lately I've done a few with a multi tool, used an old blade for the plaster and it worked surprisingly well with barely any dust. I'm saving all my worn out blades till I can find where to buy some abrasive particles and some good glue to stick it on.

 

[pistol pete]

You guys are nuts .. razor knife and a hammer works anyday once you enscribe the plaster just blast It out .. and 6/32's work for extending fingers on plastic boxes

 

[99cents]

I just used a Hackzall with a metal blade.