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Discussion Starter #1
Well yep, I done botched a concrete pad outside in this patch of field where I am going to add a service to. Concrete truck pored concrete for my 7' x 4' pad and 6 "pole bases" (not really for poles). Well pretty much LONG story short and a chain of unlucky events and I ended up having to focus all my energy on other things and was forced to wait too long to smooth out the pad. Mostly all my fault, many lessons were learned... I do have the pad level and all but it looks ugly as hell, rocks sticking out of it and everything... The original wood frame I used to do the pad is still attached and there is still like a centimeter of depth before you reach the top of the wood frame.

I grinded the rocks down some, and tomorrow I'm planning on power washing it to get a nice and clean surface. Then I plan on using some sort of patch concrete I'm hoping I can find at home depot to create the smooth finish I am looking for.

Is this what you would do? Am I missing any steps? What type of concrete would you use to do this repair? Any advice is greatly appreciated.
 

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I had a horrible pad, we were over confident and we paid the price. Rock holes and a partial blow out.
A friend of mine is a GC. He sent over his plasterer and I swear it’s a complete piece of art work now.
 

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Ready Mix concrete plant electrician
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Ask your R-Mix co about a bonding agent and place a thin 50mm (metric!!) or so depth # 8 mix on top of the present slab.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I'm almost afraid to lol. It looks so bad from the picture I took... Here let me see how tomorrow goes and I'll post a before and after so I can prevent getting crapped on too much if it turns out well haha...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ask your R-Mix co about a bonding agent and place a thin 50mm (metric!!) or so depth # 8 mix on top of the present slab.
So a very thin layer of bonding agent and then you would put a self leveling compound on top of that?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I had a horrible pad, we were over confident and we paid the price. Rock holes and a partial blow out.
A friend of mine is a GC. He sent over his plasterer and I swear it’s a complete piece of art work now.
That came out fantastic. Looks like he used maybe quikrete to give it a nice finish. I use that stuff on pole bases to get rid of the rings the sonotube creates. Hell I should probably use quikrete on this pad...
 

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Get enough latex bonding agent to brush it on the existing concrete and add some to the mix when you're making your mix.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
self leveling compound and a spike roller. Google then watch a you-tube video on how its done.
Will the self leveling compound hold strong without chipping away? I'll be shuffling a heavy ass transformer onto the pad, didn't want it to damage the finish. Would you suggest this over something like quikrete or a fast drying concrete mix?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Here this is what I'll try doing based off all the advice!

Steps in order:
1. Grind concrete down some, just enough to where I feel good about it not being close to the top of the wood frame.
2. Sweep and brush away most of the dust and rocks from grinding.
3. Sense I don't own a pressure washer, I might just try poring buckets of water over the pad and using a push broom and just doing this X amount of times until the surface is super clean... Think this should be good enough.
4. Prime the surface with Concrete bonding adhesive
5. Use a quikrete cement compound, mix a hint of the bond adhesive into it.
6. Give it a smooth finish.
7. Take off wood frame.
8. Screw it I'm grinding a very small bevel into the pad
9. Prime bevel and sides
10. Use the same quikrete cement compound on the bevel and the sides of the pad.
Done

This is what I'll do unless someone thinks there is an improved version or better option!
 

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Will the self leveling compound hold strong without chipping away? I'll be shuffling a heavy ass transformer onto the pad, didn't want it to damage the finish. Would you suggest this over something like quikrete or a fast drying concrete mix?
Its stronger than the concrete. We used it all the time back in the UK to level floors before mounting industrial equipment as its easier to work off a floor that level then to try to shim all the equipment to level.
 

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Electrician
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This stuff is amazing. Mix it with a little bit of concrete glue. Put it on like plaster. Come back the next day and sand it.
 

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grind it first then i usually mix up a mortar using volcanic ash sand and portland mortar cement,
smooth on with a wet trowel.
mortar sets quick even under water!
by the way this mix is very sticky and bonds quite solid to concrete
 

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Ready Mix concrete plant electrician
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One thing about concrete to remember, it will wait for no man, or woman for that matter, and if you have the misfortune to get a hot mix on a warm or hot day, you in for some real fun.
When you order concrete in the summer some companies will only put in set retarder if you ask for it. Most batch men will ask you if you want it if it's hot out and you aren't a regular finisher though.
 

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Use the same process as a terrazzo floor


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 

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I can respect that you don't want a picture of the "ut-oh" state of that work.
But can we get a pic of it when done?
 
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