[Aegis]

So Romex can't be exposed for under cabinet lighting? Has to be covered by wire mold? Also has anyone installed lighting in a cabinet with a false cavity in the cabinet to hide all the wiring?

 

[jza]

News to me. I thought it was kosher to run NMD unprotected above 4 ft.

Got a code reference?

 

[markore]

Yup. Some ahjs won't allow it. If you search you will find more.

 

[99cents]

So Romex can't be exposed for under cabinet lighting? Has to be covered by wire mold? Also has anyone installed lighting in a cabinet with a false cavity in the cabinet to hide all the wiring?

Wiremold? If your inspector is that anal, just cover it with a piece of flex. I think he's wrong, however. Never had an issue with loomex.

Wiremold sucks.

 

[Aegis]

News to me. I thought it was kosher to run NMD unprotected above 4 ft. Got a code reference?

I thought it was 5ft 12-518.

I'm guessing it's ok to wire it in the puck light/LED box that's hidden behind the false cabinet, as long as it's removable. Anyone know what I'm talking about?

 

[jza]

Sure, I guess it's five feet. Still, I've never had a problem running Romex. You could always leave a whip on the rough, sleeve that in flex and run your loops in-between fixtures with 2/14 BX.

 

[spinninwheels]

I thought it was 5ft 12-518.

I'm guessing it's ok to wire it in the puck light/LED box that's hidden behind the false cabinet, as long as it's removable. Anyone know what I'm talking about?

Most of the undercab that I've worked on has been LV puck lights. They all had the cavity for the wiring, which came from 1110's mounted in the lowers.

I recall one job that had undercab with loomex, and if I remember correctly, we sleeved it with flex.

 

[Sparkshow Vancouver]

I assume this is low voltage under counter lighting and not 120v. If the install is low voltage than it should not matter, however if it is 120v, it has to be terminated in an enclosure for obvious reasons. I always use 18/3 FAS Cable 300 v rated and make them create a false shelf. it is a beautiful install. the 300v rated cable allows you to terminate in the same box as your 120v if you are using an remote transformer/driver.

 

[Voltron]

I assume this is low voltage under counter lighting and not 120v. If the install is low voltage than it should not matter, however if it is 120v, it has to be terminated in an enclosure for obvious reasons. I always use 18/3 FAS Cable 300 v rated and make them create a false shelf. it is a beautiful install. the 300v rated cable allows you to terminate in the same box as your 120v if you are using an remote transformer/driver.

The op was asking whether or not it was ok to have exposed nm under the cabinet before it terminated in the fixture. Not if it was ok to have an open splice.

 

[markore]

I've never had an inspector say "now that's a beautiful install!"

Maybe I should try plumbing instead?!? :laughing:

 

[Aegis]

I assume this is low voltage under counter lighting and not 120v. If the install is low voltage than it should not matter, however if it is 120v, it has to be terminated in an enclosure for obvious reasons. I always use 18/3 FAS Cable 300 v rated and make them create a false shelf. it is a beautiful install. the 300v rated cable allows you to terminate in the same box as your 120v if you are using an remote transformer/driver.

Got any photos?

 

[Service Call]

I've been nailed before with exposed Romex. Less then a 1/4" exposed. He needed a mirror to see it. I just use flex or a piece of MC to cover it. I've done the u/C low volt type with the false bottom it turned out nice.

 

[99cents]

The last job I did was with the Rab LED product. Turned out nice. If your inspector wants you to protect the loomex, it's just a short piece to the transformer anyway and that can be protected with flex. The transformer is low profile and easy to hide. They provide jumpers to go from fixture to fixture. I would use it again.

 

[Aegis]

The last job I did was with the Rab LED product. Turned out nice. If your inspector wants you to protect the loomex, it's just a short piece to the transformer anyway and that can be protected with flex. The transformer is low profile and easy to hide. They provide jumpers to go from fixture to fixture. I would use it again.

Does it come with a small box to terminate the loomed in?

 

[sparky402]

How do you make it look nice when they want the lights at the front of cabinets. Pics please

 

[99cents]

Does it come with a small box to terminate the loomed in?

Yes. Just ask for the hardwire kit. The junction box is part of the transformer.

 

[99cents]

How do you make it look nice when they want the lights at the front of cabinets. Pics please

Any cabinets I work with have a 1 1/2" lower lip that hides everything. Normally, however, I put undercabinet lighting about 2/3 of the way back to eliminate shadows underneath the cabinet. If you're having a difficult time hiding things, Rab also makes a triangular profile designed to go at the back of the cabinet that projects the light forward.

If possible, I try to put the transformer up top. That means running the low voltage wire through the wall during rough-in. Some cabinets (Ikea sometimes) are mounted on slats, leaving a cavity between the cabinet and the wall. That's an easy way to run lo vo wire after the fact.

 

[sparky402]

Any cabinets I work with have a 1 1/2" lower lip that hides everything. Normally, however, I put undercabinet lighting about 2/3 of the way back to eliminate shadows underneath the cabinet. If you're having a difficult time hiding things, Rab also makes a triangular profile designed to go at the back of the cabinet that projects the light forward. If possible, I try to put the transformer up top. That means running the low voltage wire through the wall during rough-in. Some cabinets (Ikea sometimes) are mounted on slats, leaving a cavity between the cabinet and the wall. That's an easy way to run lo vo wire after the fact.

What about 120v lights. I could never find a nice way to hide the wire coming out from the wall so i never do it.

 

[99cents]

I used to use the 120V xenons and I still like them. Most people now want to go with LED, however.

I mounted the xenons at the back of the cabinet and they looked good. Hiding the wire wasn't much of an issue with the fixture near the back.

I am not sure why a customer would want the fixture at the front of the cabinet. The light spread is good enough to be placed further back and the idea is to eliminate shadows under the cabinet.

I have also used the sticky back LED tape but I didn't like it. It just seems flimsy to me and the Rab product isn't much higher in price.

 

[sparky402]

I used to use the 120V xenons and I still like them. Most people now want to go with LED, however. I mounted the xenons at the back of the cabinet and they looked good. Hiding the wire wasn't much of an issue with the fixture near the back. I am not sure why a customer would want the fixture at the front of the cabinet. The light spread is good enough to be placed further back and the idea is to eliminate shadows under the cabinet. I have also used the sticky back LED tape but I didn't like it. It just seems flimsy to me and the Rab product isn't much higher in price.

I will have to look up the RAB product. I dont mind the LED tape but i dont see how it will stick very long