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Apprentice here.

I was with a Journeyman the other day. We were going from box to box with conduit that required 3 bends.

A back to back 90 with a 3 inch offset at the end. Anyways, he put it all on one pipe with no need of a coupling.

The back to back 90 was no big deal. My thing is, the 3 inch offset was needed to come from off the wall, to inside the wall, then into the box.

He could have had the offset to begin its descent anywhere along the pipe - but to make it look neat, he made the descent to begin the instant the break in the wall was available to start descending.

He used the " K CENTER 22" Bend technique (Thats what he said).
The "K" Letter on the bender, will give you the CENTER of a 22 degree bend everytime. He made both his bending pencil marks off of the "K" on the bender so he could get the exact center of the 22 degree bend.

Example. If the break in the wall where he wanted the descent of the pipe to begin for optimal look was 34 inches off the ground, he would mark the pipe at 34 inches with the "K" on the bender - then use the multiplier of a 22 degree bend to get his second mark - then bend to get the perfect spot for the offset.

My question is - Could I use this technique to alleviate my fear of my the shrinkage of my offset causing the pipe to hit something before it offsets? Is there a CENTER bend on the pipe for a 30 degree bend? The offset length doesn't matter on this 22 degree "K" Bend?

I notice that this forum is full of smart a**es and etc. So if you have no answer - umm, don't answer? But if you do - I would greatly appreciate it. Peace.
 

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Find center of common bends and notch them into your bender like this


image-1063678576.jpg

Using center of bend marks is the only way to fly in my opinion. You can also use this method for large mechanical and electric benders
 

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Apprentice here.

I was with a Journeyman the other day. We were going from box to box with conduit that required 3 bends.

A back to back 90 with a 3 inch offset at the end. Anyways, he put it all on one pipe with no need of a coupling.

The back to back 90 was no big deal. My thing is, the 3 inch offset was needed to come from off the wall, to inside the wall, then into the box.

He could have had the offset to begin its descent anywhere along the pipe - but to make it look neat, he made the descent to begin the instant the break in the wall was available to start descending.

He used the " K CENTER 22" Bend technique (Thats what he said).
The "K" Letter on the bender, will give you the CENTER of a 22 degree bend everytime. He made both his bending pencil marks off of the "K" on the bender so he could get the exact center of the 22 degree bend.

Example. If the break in the wall where he wanted the descent of the pipe to begin for optimal look was 34 inches off the ground, he would mark the pipe at 34 inches with the "K" on the bender - then use the multiplier of a 22 degree bend to get his second mark - then bend to get the perfect spot for the offset.

My question is - Could I use this technique to alleviate my fear of my the shrinkage of my offset causing the pipe to hit something before it offsets? Is there a CENTER bend on the pipe for a 30 degree bend? The offset length doesn't matter on this 22 degree "K" Bend?

I notice that this forum is full of smart a**es and etc. So if you have no answer - umm, don't answer? But if you do - I would greatly appreciate it. Peace.
Axe your apprentice school rather than us smart alicking, joke cracker fellas.
 

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Yes, bending by center marks is the way for accurate bending. You can determine the center mark, for your bender, easily: Bend a scrap piece of pipe, use a strait edge to determine the center point of the bend apex, mark the pipe at this point, put pipe back in bender, transfer center line pipe mark to bender shoe.

There are some good tips at porcupine press.com for parallel bending of offsets.
 

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You will only make a couple of small mistakes before you get to know your bender.
Different jobs and even different gang boxes have different benders.
It's really easy to master, we don't have that many bends that are practical to make.
Like suggested here, if it will help you out. Make a bend and then mark or notch the bender.
After a while, you will be able to eyeball most bends and make very few marks on the pipe.
 
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