Crimpers & pants...

I thought you soldered the wire, then the tabs were bent over the insulation for mechanical strength.

480sparky said:

I thought you soldered the wire, then the tabs were bent over the insulation for mechanical strength.

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thats what I've always done, I didn't know you could crimp 'em!

I've always crimped first and then soldered last. That way the wire and crimp are soldered together.

I've been using my co-worker's Snap-On like the one shown. It turns the little tabs over the insulation and conductor nicely. Soldering would be superfluous. The crimp is stronger than the wire (14-18AWG) itself.

Mackie said:

I've been using my co-worker's Snap-On like the one shown. It turns the little tabs over the insulation and conductor nicely. Soldering would be superfluous. The crimp is stronger than the wire (14-18AWG) itself.

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Do you do that even if the instructions say to solder?

Is that automotive? Some sort of DIN connector?

Looks the same as the D connector crimps we used to use on RS 232 links. Crimped thousands-soldered none
Our crimpers look like the snap-on version. Folds the tabs over to form a 'W' indent sort of shape type like thingy
...hint...

strip insulation too much, pull off part of insulation. Twist insulation [easier to grip as it also twists the conductor]. Trim to length. put pin in tool, put wire in crimp...crimp.Withdraw slightly...crimp insulation. repeat 20,000 times, you'll soon get the hang of it:blink:
Well it worked for me:laughing:

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=3141362#header

thats what i use for pins like that
do hundreds of them things

Speedy Petey said:

Is that automotive? Some sort of DIN connector?

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The plugs we get from England for HVAC equipment uses set screws for wire attachment, haven't used crimps yet.

The high reliability way to crimp those is to use a ratcheting tool. I don't know if my ratcheting tool has been approved by the manufacturer and all that, but it has worked for several hundred connections over a few years in an industrial setting. I like the plastic block that holds the pin in place in the die, and the ratcheting mechanism ensures a good crimp. Another thought if you didn't know, the reason there's two sets of wings is because the bigger one fits over the insulation, the smaller set is for the stripped conductor.

Like anything else, which quality of tool you buy depends on how much reliability you need in the connection and if it's occasional repair, frequent repair, or new construction usage. I personally don't use non-ratcheting crimpers anymore because I don't like callbacks on my repair work. With as much labor as it takes to make up a d-sub connector I wouldn't suggest the non-ratcheting crimpers here either.


Crimpers I have:
http://www.mcmelectronics.com/produ...&product_id=22-3162&CMP=datafeeds&ATT=froogle

There is an AMP tool for that crimp. Look in the AMP catalog. Check the Molex connector section.

macmikeman said:

There is an AMP tool for that crimp. Look in the AMP catalog. Check the Molex connector section.

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If you can match up ANY AMP or Molex connector with it's proper pin, connector body and crimper in any catalog anywhere you are a certified genious, and my hat goes off to you.

Kind'a reminds me of that old off color joke, what would you like me to do with this 55 gallon drum full of ill fitting pins and their associates?

Best Wishes Everyone