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· Ambassador of Amps
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Going to purchase one of these for cutting strut. They also have a blade for cutting stainless that I'll buy as well. Anyone ever use one of these saws? This was actually recommend to me by the president of our company, so if it doesn't work, I can blame him.
Link? I have no clue what this evolution saw is you speak of.
 

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We use the 14" Porter Cable version mostly. One of the best things ever, puts abrasive chop saws to shame. We have the blades resharpened and retoothed as they are expensive, about 130 bucks but when cared for they hold up well. Saw stick wax helps too.
 

· Electron Flow Consultant
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
We're in the basement of a paper machine, so it's loud anyway. I'm really interested in how well it will cut stainless strut. We are actually getting 2 saws and the 14" version.. One for steel and one for stainless. These will be used for strut only. We will be making it clear that if someone cuts stainless on the wrong saw, they get the next day off to pay for a new blade. Hopefully if we let them know up front, it won't happen. If it does, there will be a consequence.
 

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They cut stainless great. We keep good stainless blades, ie for all stainless projects, mainly pipefitting. On electrical stuff we toss junk blades, ones that have been sharpened and retoothed a lot, on and use them to cut anything, steel, stainless, pvc, aluminum, wood.
 

· Data Tech/Apprentice.
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Theres a 7,1/4 version of that rage evolution saw on our craigslist for $150 and blades cost $52 says it will cut up to 50m of 6mm mild steel on one blade.
 

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I have 2 that I use in the shop, one is a sliding compound saw.. the screw things to hold stuff down don't work great for pipe and strut but besides the noise they cut through wood and metal quickly and the blades last for quite a while cutting mostly metal, very very little sparks.
Just be aware you can't really find any blades to fit it besides the ones that evolution makes for it, which aren't terribly cheap.
 

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Why would you put in it backwards? That is dumb.
I don't think you understand. Installing the blade backwards is a way to cut material the blade wasn't designed for without it binding or exploding the material your cutting, turning it into shrapnel. I'm thinking of metal siding or pvc pipe, for example.

Sometimes when I'm drilling through metal siding with a holesaw it'll bind up a lot. Then I'll run it in reverse, it still cuts through, but with less binding.
 

· Data Tech/Apprentice.
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We have a dedicated mitre saw with a backwards normal carbide blade for the sole purpose of cutting aluminum. Loud as :censored: but does the job. Backwards blade works fine. Not the most correct tool maybe, but it works.
They make aluminium cutting blades... OSHA will be all over your ass when the brazed carbide tips come off and injure someone.
 

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They make aluminium cutting blades... OSHA will be all over your ass when the brazed carbide tips come off and injure someone.
I'll bring it up at the safety meeting this month. Far as I know, it got taken out of service though as it wasn't properly marked for use on aluminum only and someone did some damage trying to cut something else
 

· Data Tech/Apprentice.
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I'll bring it up at the safety meeting this month. Far as I know, it got taken out of service though as it wasn't properly marked 0for use on aluminum only and someone did some damage trying to cut something else
I had a carbide tip fly off and stick into some drywall when I hit a screw, only reason I mention it. If that blinded someone and it wasnt being used as intended heads would roll.
 

· Electron Flow Consultant
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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
So how do you like the saw?

I've got some projects coming up that require cutting a good bit of strut and I'm about to price one of these into the bid.

I decided not to buy one. We had a few 12" DeWalts at the shop so I took 2. One for stainless and one for steel. As long as you use the correct saw for what you're cutting, the blades have lasted great. Square cut, faster, and minimal filing every time.
 

· Senile Member
I make all the electrons line up for their Flu shots
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I like the idea since most times when I cut unistrut with my porter cable band saw the cut goes off at a bit of an angle and pisses me off.
 
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Why would you put in it backwards? That is dumb.
Obviously the correct blade for the material is always the favoured solution but as to why you would put the blade in backward. imagine a course toothed blade. It will try to cut much larger pieces of material at each tooth than a fine blade with many more teeth. Once the material is stronger than the saw can cut the material jams and the saw stalls or stuff breaks.

Put the blade in backward and the saw is more wearing the material as cutting it and takes much smaller bites at each tooth.

Now that you understand the reason is it still just dumb?

It might be just dumb to use a saw blade this way but it is a lot safer if you don't have the right blade. Obviously the ejection path for lost teeth should be kept clear, and be sure to place your own body outside this area too.
 
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