My hand.
Fuse puller for big fuses
I am looking for a fuse puller that can pull out a big knife type fuse out of a holder. The fuse is roughly the size of a rockstar can, slightly taller than a regular soda can.
I found an ideal one that can pull a fuse 2.5" in diameter, just wondering if there is something better that you guys use.
I found an ideal one that can pull a fuse 2.5" in diameter, just wondering if there is something better that you guys use.
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at 220 VDC?My hand.
I understand that safety is top 3, but even I wasn't just going to grab the thing.
Your pulling fuses while energized???at 220 VDC?
I understand that safety is top 3, but even I wasn't just going to grab the thing.
Why???
the fuses ARE the service disconnect. Im dealing with 220VDC straight from the POCO. I can kill the load down the line so im not removing them under any load, but they are still energized.Your pulling fuses while energized???
Why???
Huh? It was my understanding the disconnect switch was to the line side of the fuses, so that they can be pulled under no load. So if you throw the disconnect open, there is no voltage present at the fuses. Do you just have a special disconnect or something?
come on guys.. im dealing with a building built in 1909. it is what it is. if I have to put a glove on and yank them out, i will.
My special disconnect is a 2x4' asbestos lined JB, with 2 giant fuse holders in them. PGE conductors are wrapped with string and just enter the box through a KO.
My special disconnect is a 2x4' asbestos lined JB, with 2 giant fuse holders in them. PGE conductors are wrapped with string and just enter the box through a KO.
Time to invest in a arc flash suit and mask buddy.TOOL_5150 said:come on guys.. im dealing with a building built in 1909. it is what it is. if I have to put a glove on and yank them out, i will. My special disconnect is a 2x4' asbestos lines JB, with 2 giant fuse holders in them. PGE conductors are wrapped with string and just enter the box through a KO.
I'll admit to some pretty unsafe practices in the past but not anymore. At least put the thought on the back burner. Everything only goes right x many times in a row.
Got pics?come on guys.. im dealing with a building built in 1909. it is what it is. if I have to put a glove on and yank them out, i will.
My special disconnect is a 2x4' asbestos lined JB, with 2 giant fuse holders in them. PGE conductors are wrapped with string and just enter the box through a KO.
Stay safe, call for a POCO work with.
I wont admit to the unsafe things ive done in just the past year, at least not here, but you are very right.. luck does run out. Probably time to invest in some real PPE.Time to invest in a arc flash suit and mask buddy.
I'll admit to some pretty unsafe practices in the past but not anymore. At least put the thought on the back burner. Everything only goes right x many times in a row.
Let me dig them up... I cant remember if I took pics of the AC or DC main JB in this building.Got pics?
Stay safe, call for a POCO work with.
This building has a 3 phase delta 120/208 AC service and 110/220 DC service, specifically for the elevator.
Mr. Tool,
I do not like the ideal yellow pullers for this size, they either release the fuse half pulled, or bend your hands toward the holder during the re-insertion process. I have on occasion had to pull fuses under (minimal as I could make them) load, and certainly while energized.
But DC as you know is a different animal, having no zero crossing point. I will never pull one under any type of load, and will not pull one until I have read the amp meter for myself.
Now being on this forum I cannot recommend anything outside of absolute child proof safety measures. So I wont.
But I have heard that some people will insulate the handles on a large set of channel locks with many layers of electrical tap, and do the same thing to the jaws of these large channel locks and pull the fuses. One hard quick jerk and follow through with the arm to quickly break any arc that may follow.
Thats what I hear anyway.
I do not like the ideal yellow pullers for this size, they either release the fuse half pulled, or bend your hands toward the holder during the re-insertion process. I have on occasion had to pull fuses under (minimal as I could make them) load, and certainly while energized.
But DC as you know is a different animal, having no zero crossing point. I will never pull one under any type of load, and will not pull one until I have read the amp meter for myself.
Now being on this forum I cannot recommend anything outside of absolute child proof safety measures. So I wont.
But I have heard that some people will insulate the handles on a large set of channel locks with many layers of electrical tap, and do the same thing to the jaws of these large channel locks and pull the fuses. One hard quick jerk and follow through with the arm to quickly break any arc that may follow.
Thats what I hear anyway.
This, Have them turn it off and put the correct disconnect in.Stay safe, call for a POCO work with.
Probably time to invest in some real PPE.
If you turn it off , you don't need to buy the PPE.
The channellock idea crossed my mind yesterday... I can definitely achieve zero load, but didnt want to deal with the issues of re-installing the fuses.Mr. Tool,
I do not like the ideal yellow pullers for this size, they either release the fuse half pulled, or bend your hands toward the holder during the re-insertion process. I have on occasion had to pull fuses under (minimal as I could make them) load, and certainly while energized.
But DC as you know is a different animal, having no zero crossing point. I will never pull one under any type of load, and will not pull one until I have read the amp meter for myself.
Now being on this forum I cannot recommend anything outside of absolute child proof safety measures. So I wont.
But I have heard that some people will insulate the handles on a large set of channel locks with many layers of electrical tap, and do the same thing to the jaws of these large channel locks and pull the fuses. One hard quick jerk and follow through with the arm to quickly break any arc that may follow.
Thats what I hear anyway.
Ive also thought of maybe getting 2 of the ideal fuse pullers to keep the pressure more even, but even that sounds sketchy.
If you really can't shut it down, that hastings universal attachment and a properly rated suit seem like your best bet.
I have no valid excuse for not turning it off, other than the matter is mostly out of my hands. I did a FOP, with unfortunately not much load, all readings were the same except for 1 fuse holder down the line, which I was able to make tighter and dropped the mV down to the other readings.This, Have them turn it off and put the correct disconnect in.
If you turn it off , you don't need to buy the PPE.
It works well for re-install also.The channellock idea crossed my mind yesterday... I can definitely achieve zero load, but didnt want to deal with the issues of re-installing the fuses.
Ive also thought of maybe getting 2 of the ideal fuse pullers to keep the pressure more even, but even that sounds sketchy.
If they are tanged fuses, snap in the dead side first, that will line everything up- then swing it in.
If they are round fuse clips, line up on the dead side and clip it in.
Channel locks have a much more assured feel and I am told work better then anything else in this type of situation.
But I would have Poco pull it all down first.
How many places have a 220 v d.c. service?
1 - 20 of 46 Posts
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