I am looking for a fuse puller that can pull out a big knife type fuse out of a holder. The fuse is roughly the size of a rockstar can, slightly taller than a regular soda can.
I found an ideal one that can pull a fuse 2.5" in diameter, just wondering if there is something better that you guys use.
Huh? It was my understanding the disconnect switch was to the line side of the fuses, so that they can be pulled under no load. So if you throw the disconnect open, there is no voltage present at the fuses. Do you just have a special disconnect or something?
come on guys.. im dealing with a building built in 1909. it is what it is. if I have to put a glove on and yank them out, i will.
My special disconnect is a 2x4' asbestos lined JB, with 2 giant fuse holders in them. PGE conductors are wrapped with string and just enter the box through a KO.
come on guys.. im dealing with a building built in 1909. it is what it is. if I have to put a glove on and yank them out, i will. My special disconnect is a 2x4' asbestos lines JB, with 2 giant fuse holders in them. PGE conductors are wrapped with string and just enter the box through a KO.
Time to invest in a arc flash suit and mask buddy.
I'll admit to some pretty unsafe practices in the past but not anymore. At least put the thought on the back burner. Everything only goes right x many times in a row.
I wont admit to the unsafe things ive done in just the past year, at least not here, but you are very right.. luck does run out. Probably time to invest in some real PPE.
I do not like the ideal yellow pullers for this size, they either release the fuse half pulled, or bend your hands toward the holder during the re-insertion process. I have on occasion had to pull fuses under (minimal as I could make them) load, and certainly while energized.
But DC as you know is a different animal, having no zero crossing point. I will never pull one under any type of load, and will not pull one until I have read the amp meter for myself.
Now being on this forum I cannot recommend anything outside of absolute child proof safety measures. So I wont.
But I have heard that some people will insulate the handles on a large set of channel locks with many layers of electrical tap, and do the same thing to the jaws of these large channel locks and pull the fuses. One hard quick jerk and follow through with the arm to quickly break any arc that may follow.
The channellock idea crossed my mind yesterday... I can definitely achieve zero load, but didnt want to deal with the issues of re-installing the fuses.
Ive also thought of maybe getting 2 of the ideal fuse pullers to keep the pressure more even, but even that sounds sketchy.
I am looking for a fuse puller that can pull out a big knife type fuse out of a holder. The fuse is roughly the size of a rockstar can, slightly taller than a regular soda can. I found an ideal one that can pull a fuse 2.5" in diameter, just wondering if there is something better that you guys use.
Ideal did make an over sized fuse puller years ago.
I had it wen I worked in the hospital and replaced fuses on the fly. But that was years ago.
It looked like the modern 2 ended one except it was black and only 1 side was for fuses. It was made from a stacked wafer bake lite.
I hated pulling live fuses, even if I tested to make sure there was no load. You never know for absolute sure. Then because DC can pull a nasty arc, the fecal expulsion factor would be too much for me. If i had to do it often, I would get a lineman's hot stick and one of those big adjustable fuse holders for it, like these.
I hated pulling live fuses, even if I tested to make sure there was no load. You never know for absolute sure. Then because DC can pull a nasty arc, the fecal expulsion factor would be too much for me. If i had to do it often, I would get a lineman's hot stick and one of those big adjustable fuse holders for it, like these. http://www.macronsafety.com/hastings-universal-adjustable-fuse-puller Might seem overkill and expensive, but new pants aren't cheap any more either...
My first post military job interview had me demonstrate how to use a Wiggy to locate a popped fuse in a combination starter and how to swap it on the fly.
It's easy enough to do,,, but looking back I'm glad I didn't get the job at the Gypsum plant. They are long gone except for the pile of asbestosis on the property.
If this is your disconnect and you've got no load isolation, just remember you're in double-jeopardy because both sides of those cradles will likely be hot with backfeed until all the fuses are yanked. If you drop a fuse and the lower half stays in the cradle, might be a good idea to have insulated sheeting in place so it can't swing down and smack into something grounded.
To boot, some of the fuses that size are nightmares to get out even de-energized. I might do it in with a shotgun stick if I could literally throw my body-weight backwards against the stick in one fell swoop. I would not be happy about doing that with these stupid things:
Universal Self Aligning Fuse Puller
Small size for fuse tubes 1/2" to 1 1/2" diameter
Jaws are plastic coated
Model: 5455-37
Weight: 2 lbs
Universal Adjustable Fuse Puller - Large
Fits fuse tubes 7/8" to 2" diameter
Jaws are plastic coated
Model: 5455-57
Weight: 3.3 lbs
Universal Extra Large Adjustable Fuse Puller
Used to change out power fuses
Fits fuses 1 1/2" diameter to 3 5/8" diameter
Jaws are plastic coated
Model: 5455-93
Weight: 3.5 lbs
As if pulling a live fuse on AC isn't bad enough !
Pulling on on DC is just sheer madness,
I wouldn't want to be any where near it !
It would have to have a long handle
at least 10 meters !
Even better get the trainee to do it !
The trick was to kill all loads after the fuses, so that no current flowed.
Still ... a very lousy scheme.
Back in the day, the intent was the limit the AIC headed towards the knife-switch.
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