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Discussion Starter · #121 ·
Thank you for the reply!

I thought I was abandoned here:(:(. I have to chance the order of the wires on the plugs at the stator(??).

The drawing that is "going around" is missing some clarity in that, the five pin din (salvaged from previous original old gen wiring) can be labeled 1,2,3,4,5 from left to right but, depending on the mounting (pc side of board facing stator or component side of board facing stator) can be 180* out in the pin/wiring order 5,4,3,2,1.
 

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Discussion Starter · #122 ·
A reference video -

Tomorrow or Thursday will be the day I either sink or swim with this rebuild project since I have been rained out 2 days in a row.

I am questioning the exciter(?) (2 yellow and 1 blue) wires which terminate into a 3 pin molex plug and also questioning another 3-pin molex plug that is only using 2 pins of a plug with a black wire at each end with the center being vacant.....

**Where I am confuse is that; on the 3 pin molex (2 yellows, 1 yellow on each end with blue in the middle as in the above vid and on some previously posted picts), does the placement or polarity make any difference pertaining to the two yellows (if they were reversed)? He indicates that there is AC on the 2 yellows which then should not make any difference in my situation, right?


**On the plug that contains only 2 black wires, would that polarity make a difference either? I have no idea as to what they are for or go to.
 

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Discussion Starter · #123 · (Edited)
Haven't done anything further with generator resuscitation due to me injuring disc in my back. I was talking to another gent else-wheres' when this thread went "quiet".

I think I just need to know about the; **Polarity (if any, of the 2 black wires disappearing into the rotor/stator (in a previously posted picture post 102) area that come off of the replacement board**. The wiring diagram posted previously shows them as a "sensor wire(s)".

The two black "brush wires" with spade lugs that come OFF OF the new replacement board (post 109) are NOT annotated for plus (+) or minus (-) and therefore could go to either brush/slip-ring. *IF these black wires coming off the replacement board were reversed and IF the polarity mattered on the brush/slip-ring/brushes, would damage occur?. *
 

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Discussion Starter · #124 ·
Well, looks like this thread possibly died.

Seemingly, nobody can answer the last question about the polarity of the wires to the brushes. This being that the wires from the replacement board are not marked for polarity but, that when flashing, manual indicates a polarity to which the flash voltage is to be applied to the rings (see previous pict). I will only flash this gen with the regulator board detached from the replacement board.

However, I wish to thank all that participated in what is a "no big deal" for you problem in this thread, (meaning that you deal with this all day long or, for a good portion of your life) involving my dilemma with resuscitating my generator, but, a large problem for me as a NOOB with gen-sets.

I have learned a lot and I appreciate the patience and information all have donated.
 

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" Fleming's Right Hand Rule gives the direction of current and hence the polarity of the generated voltage. In order to change the polarity at the generator terminals, either the direction of rotation of the generator has to be reversed or the direction of magnetic field has to be reversed(this can be done by reversing the current in the separately excited field coil) but not both together."
 
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Discussion Starter · #126 ·
" Fleming's Right Hand Rule gives the direction of current and hence the polarity of the generated voltage. In order to change the polarity at the generator terminals, either the direction of rotation of the generator has to be reversed or the direction of magnetic field has to be reversed(this can be done by reversing the current in the separately excited field coil) but not both together."
**********************

Thanks for the reply!


You just brought back a memory that I had totally forgotten from the early 70's (but still forgotten):blink:.

I read what you stated but, still not understand:(. Is it that I can apply the brush wires to EITHER of the slip rings with no adverse affects:001_huh:? I don't plan on changing the rotation of the motor
 

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In theory the polarity shouldn't matter but we have no insight as to how the electronics work. All you are doing is generating a magnetic field in the rotor. Still AC output. The exciter will change the strength of the DC field to regulate the output of the genset.

My suggestion is to say to hell with it and try it. If it don't work reverse the connections. Trying to reverse engineer without solid info is tough.
 
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Discussion Starter · #129 · (Edited)
In theory the polarity shouldn't matter but we have no insight as to how the electronics work. All you are doing is generating a magnetic field in the rotor. Still AC output. The exciter will change the strength of the DC field to regulate the output of the genset.

My suggestion is to say to hell with it and try it. If it don't work reverse the connections. Trying to reverse engineer without solid info is tough.
*******************

Thanks for the reply!


I understand what you are saying. I would just hate to see a $100 board go up in smoke.

I believe I understand that DC is applied to the slip rings on the rotor (rotating mass) so, that polarity should not matter.....I believe that the replacement board AVR is just going to adjust the voltage/current applied to the slip rings.

I had decided to throw in the towel and just hook up the remaining wires and give it a shot.
 

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Discussion Starter · #130 ·
UPDATE......

THIS DAMNED THING WORKS!


Made the wires in bell cover a little long so as if there was a need to remove the gen bell, a wire, or board later, I could do it without damaging any other wires or connections.

Used 2 "zip-ties" to hold wires/connectors to each side edge of gen bell so as not to come in contact with any moving/rotating parts. Packed bearing with high temperature grease.

Before re-assembly, I took a 6VDC lantern battery and briefly tapped it onto outer edge of slip-rings 2 or 3 times....and prayed. I did it with the brushes/board disconnected as I did not want to shoot voltage into replacement board.

Now, I have to see if I can cross-reference the oil filter with an automotive filter and, change the oil to synthetic.

I wish to ABSOLUTELY, POSITIVELY, UNDOUBTEDLY thank all of you whom gave me advice, offered parts, offered links, and gave me the benefit of their working knowledge to get this gen back on it's feet again.

But foremost, TO JESUS BE THE CREDIT AND GLORY.
 

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That has a Briggs and Stratton motor so getting an oil filter should be no problem. I use 5w30 synthetic in almost all the generators I work on. Looks like it has a Briggs oil filter on it now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #134 ·
Started gen this morning and plugged in a device called a "Kill-a-watt" which is supposed to give freq, voltage, etc., and found unit is outputting 148 volts!...Damn glad I did not plug in a tool and only a light bulb!....Wonder why light I had plugged into it didn't blow....Have to remove end bell and board to facilitate avr adjustment....Wonder how many times I am going to have to remove end bell today?!
 

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Discussion Starter · #135 ·
That has a Briggs and Stratton motor so getting an oil filter should be no problem. I use 5w30 synthetic in almost all the generators I work on. Looks like it has a Briggs oil filter on it now.

**********************
Thanks for the reply.


I have cross-referenced the oil filter about an hour ago to a Fram but, I HATE FRAM. So, crossed it over to other brands and got a few numbers...Ok, out the door I go to see if I can adjust AVR.
 

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Discussion Starter · #137 ·
I think I am finished.....

I had to drop the bell again and maneuver the connectors/connections to one side of the bell so that I am/was able to access the variable resistor on the replacement board through a side cooling slot/vent.

After first adjustment I had no output (think I went too far) and decided that I would be at it all day if the gen was not running.

My first idea was to make small incremental adjustments 'till I got it right. Then, came to my senses remembered that I had some insulated TV alignment tools for just such a purpose.

So, plugged in volt meter (as mentioned above), started gen, and slowly creeped it down to 121.1 VAC at 62 HZ.
 

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I think I am finished.....

I had to drop the bell again and maneuver the connectors/connections to one side of the bell so that I am/was able to access the variable resistor on the replacement board through a side cooling slot/vent.

After first adjustment I had no output (think I went too far) and decided that I would be at it all day if the gen was not running.

My first idea was to make small incremental adjustments 'till I got it right. Then, came to my senses remembered that I had some insulated TV alignment tools for just such a purpose.

So, plugged in volt meter (as mentioned above), started gen, and slowly creeped it down to 121.1 VAC at 62 HZ.
It would be a good idea to read the voltage, but with an incandescent bulb plugged in.
Most of those gens output a near square wave when unloaded .... that could mess up your voltage measurement.
 

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Discussion Starter · #139 ·
It would be a good idea to read the voltage, but with an incandescent bulb plugged in.
Most of those gens output a near square wave when unloaded .... that could mess up your voltage measurement.
*********************

Thanks for the reply.


I had a bulb plugged in and took measurements BOTH with and w/out bulb.
 

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And POOF! You're done!

Thank goodness I have a whole house genset from Generac I got a free gas powered Generac spray washer too.

Ha ha! It just started for it's weekly test.
 
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