Ready Mix concrete plant electrician
Was going to say this. I wouldnt want something connected that is leaking current, as a homeowner or as the serviceman.To help convince the customer about replacing the obviously damaged underground feeds, connect them without GFI protection and no loads connected in the shed and then take amperage readings on them.
I’m willing to bet they are drawing current and costing them money every day.
It only takes a greater than 6ma current leakage to trip a GFCI, you think a PoCo watt-hour meter will see that in a short time period?Thanks to everyone for taking the time and responding to my question. I didn't respond sooner because I was away for a day or so. I have for sure read all of your comments and am thankful for all of them.
As I await getting my testers back I am going to shut every breaker off except the one for the circuit in question, I will make sure nothing is turned on or connected to that circuit. And I will see if the meter is turning. That should be an indicator.
No, but. As I stated, one of the 12/2s trips the GFCI instantly, the other it takes maybe three seconds. So I am hoping with the digital hydro meter, after some minutes something will change on the meter especially because one of the 12/2s trips instantly. I think its worth a shot until I get my testers back from a buddy of mine.It only takes a greater than 6ma current leakage to trip a GFCI, you think a PoCo watt-hour meter will see that in a short time period?
Was going to say this. I wouldnt want something connected that is leaking current, as a homeowner or as the serviceman.
This is a case for replacing the wires, disconnecting them, or, as a convoluted and possibly legal workaround, install a disconnect switch for the shed leads, remove the light switches in the sheds, and install GFCI's in the shed outlets. Not sure how close to the cost of new cable you would be by that point.
Connect them without GFI protection to test and see the current lost.No, but. As I stated, one of the 12/2s trips the GFCI instantly, the other it takes maybe three seconds. So I am hoping with the digital hydro meter, after some minutes something will change on the meter especially because one of the 12/2s trips instantly. I think its worth a shot until I get my testers back from a buddy of mine.
I don't think this is the way to go. You know there is an underground issue you are just masking it.That may end up being the plan. Thanks, Shocksystemsfor you time.
I'd check the differences between CAT II and CAT III test equipment. This is a CAT II tester. I just checked all of the test equipment that we have is rated at CAT III or above.
That's a good idea, but he swapped the underground with temporary wires across the ground and the issue went away, so I think he's isolated the problem to the underground wires.Have you checked continuity between neutral and ground on the wires heading to shed? I've had the same problem where it wouldn't trip the breaker if I bypassed the GFCI but the GFCI would instantly trip. Turned out a siding screw had connected neutral and ground.
Replace all receptacles with GFCI. Pig tail each location that require to feed trough to the next. Make no receptacle dependent on the GFCI upstream.Hi all. I am stumped.
Yesterday I did a few minor updates on a home that was wired in the 80s.
I will try to be brief.
There is a (surface mount) receptacle on an outside wall of a home for a deck area, the deck is 30 ft x 30 ft and other than 30 feet away the deck it 100% closed in and water tight, under no circumstances can any snow or rain come anywhere near the receptacle, nor do they use this receptacle to plug in any power tools or anything else for use "off" of the deck.
Out of the top of the PVC receptacle box is 1/2 inch PVC conduit up to a water proof switch that feeds four light in the deck area. Coming out of the bottom of the surface mounted PVC receptacle box there are two, 12/2 NMWU wires that feed two sheds (via under the ground) in the back yard. Each shed has one receptacle and one light. Neither are GFCI protected. So I decided to replace the receptacle on the deck with a GFCI receptacle to protect the two sheds.
The bottom line? Once the GFCI receptacle was installed, it trips. Every time.... When I disconnect the two 12/2 NMWU wires that feed the sheds it doesn't trip, The GFCI operates fine as a receptacle and as a feed for the lights, but again, hook up the two 12/2 NMWU wires for the sheds,,,,,it trips.
I have carefully inspected the visible part of the 12/2's under the deck (before they go underground) and they are fine.
I inspected the 12/2 s from the entry points in the shed to where they enter a junction box, the wires are fine. I disconnected everything from the junction box except the incoming feed and capped off the wires and after doing so, still the GFCI on the deck trips.
There must be a short or something wrong under the ground between the deck and the sheds, no?
Also. I tried connecting the 12/2 NMWU's independently, one at a time, and once each one is connected by itself, the GFCI trips. The only difference is when I connect one of them to the GFCI it trips instantly, the other trips after about 3 seconds.
I am sorry this is such a long drawn out explanation but I wanted to give as much info as I could. It has to be a fault in the 12/2 under the ground, no?
Any ideas or suggestions will be much appreciated.
P.S. Everything works fine if the deck receptacle is not a GFCI.
With the deck receptacle standard, not GFCI, I temporarily, installed a GFCI receptacle in one of the sheds, and it works fine. (just some added info)