Greenlee flex bits
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When I know you all better I tell you what a problem with them can be.
480 beat me to it. The placement tool is a MUST!
The guy in the pic is using it all wrong though. :laughing:
Bryan, it's all good. Do tell.........
The guy in the pic is using it all wrong though. :laughing:
Bryan, it's all good. Do tell.........
hopefully the pic is simply to show the intent. If they were using it correctly, obviously most of the tool would not be seen.
I don't have one of those tools but I have used a piece of conduit with a proper bend in it to guide the bit. Probably doesn;t work as good as the tool does but it did do what I needed when I needed it.
I don't have one of those tools but I have used a piece of conduit with a proper bend in it to guide the bit. Probably doesn;t work as good as the tool does but it did do what I needed when I needed it.
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I was an apprentice and new to working with this JM doing a heavy up and panel change IIRC. He left me alone to go fetch some tool or material with an instruction to bore a pilot hole near the sill plate...
Long story short, the end of the flex bit ended up through the (hardwood) dining room floor and in the leg of an allegedly antique chair. There may have been a Persian rug too.
To his credit he never really blamed me for it but I still shudder whenever I so much as see a flex bit.
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They're a handy thing to have around.
Be careful about running them too fast while you're bending it a good bit. It'll heat up and snap at the bend point if you're not careful. I've snapped 2 of them like that so far.
Because of heat I'd think, I also had one where the drill/auger part of the drill bit separated from the shaft.
I've never liked that placement tool, for myself I can do a better job placing and controlling the bit by hand.
Be careful about running them too fast while you're bending it a good bit. It'll heat up and snap at the bend point if you're not careful. I've snapped 2 of them like that so far.
Because of heat I'd think, I also had one where the drill/auger part of the drill bit separated from the shaft.
I've never liked that placement tool, for myself I can do a better job placing and controlling the bit by hand.
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5,798 Posts
A piece of EMT with a nice bend on it works well ...:thumbsup: ...save your paw for playing cards.
How 'bout this.
Get you a piece of 1/2 Pex tubing just shorter than the shaft length of your flex-bit.
Slide your bit in and leave it. You can hold it tight and drill and the bit will never burn through the Pex, and your hands stay unhurt.
You can also slide it on the bit after placing it in the wall. The wall does not get all chewed up if the bit bounces around a little.
:thumbsup:
Get you a piece of 1/2 Pex tubing just shorter than the shaft length of your flex-bit.
Slide your bit in and leave it. You can hold it tight and drill and the bit will never burn through the Pex, and your hands stay unhurt.
You can also slide it on the bit after placing it in the wall. The wall does not get all chewed up if the bit bounces around a little.
:thumbsup:
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I like that one, thanks.
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Conduit doesn't cause as much drag on the bit as their placement tool either. I used to spray the bit with WD 40, but now I think I'm gonna try the Pex jacket.
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Has anyone used the masonary bit and liked it?
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I use them all the time, just don't do this.:whistling2: :laughing:
View attachment 341
View attachment 341
PEX, huh? I'll give it a try. I do have hte placement tool...forgot about that!
Best use I ever had was installing can lights in 1st floor ceiling with bedroom above. Cut the 8 6" holes, then used loooong flex bit to go between openings. Owner thought I was the greatest. Didn't booger-up the ceiling.
"FREE ADVICE" That 90 degree angle in Greenlee's picture is a good way to make a mess. Try to limit the angle as much as possible. Try to drill straight down. You'll have better control of the bit.
Best use I ever had was installing can lights in 1st floor ceiling with bedroom above. Cut the 8 6" holes, then used loooong flex bit to go between openings. Owner thought I was the greatest. Didn't booger-up the ceiling.
"FREE ADVICE" That 90 degree angle in Greenlee's picture is a good way to make a mess. Try to limit the angle as much as possible. Try to drill straight down. You'll have better control of the bit.
Does anyone use the Greenlee flex bit for getting romex around and in and out of, and drill behind, finished walls? What are your thoughts? Thanks in advance.
The Diversibits do come in longer lengths for drilling up through the bottom and out the top of stud bays if that’s what you mean.
I don’t recommend getting them in lengths longer than the 54-inch though, because the extensions and 72-inch bits just have too much whip and the shafts are easily twisted or snapped.
I have used them to go from basement to attic before, but it's hard to control that long thin unwieldy shaft. Always felt like it was going to snap and take my eye out.
The type B and C tip 54-inch and shorter lengths on the other hand are very useful for drilling down into a basement or crawl or up into an attic space from a switch location. I use the wire basket grips through the hole in the tip to pull wires back through. The positioning tool is the easiest way to get the bit started close against the interior wall when working from a one-gang box cutout. If your working in an insulated exterior wall, they make a flexible nylon sleeve that slides over the shaft before you chuck it in the drill. It keeps the insulation from wrapping around the shaft and protects your fingers from friction burns. The placement tool fits over this nylon sleeve, so you can still use it for positioning.
Greenlee bought out Diversabit years ago, but Milwaukee also markets this same style of bit as their “Cable Bit”. I’ve never tried the type M masonry bit to drill through fire stops before.
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