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So I have a customer that bought a sauna from somebody on OfferUp it comes with no manual and no indications anywhere of brand or model. This is a picture of the control panel on top and says the sauna requires 200-240v. Only issue is where cables terminate there is only 3 spots line, neutral, and ground. All specifically labeled that way. Wondering if that neutral spot is where I would land that second phase but don’t want to mess anything up in case I’m wrong. Hoping somebody else has seen something like this before. Thank you. Also has a 15 amp cord cap which doesn’t seem correct. Sauna currently works as is plugged into 15 amp circuit but will trip reset button on control panel once it reaches temp.
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Electrical Contractor
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What does the input on the power supply say?
 
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What does the input on the power supply say?
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If that sauna has no overall label including model number, CERTIFICATION, and other ratings, I wouldn't touch it with a 10' pole.

If it has such a label, please post it.
 

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Bilge Rat
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Looks like you have something that is wired to work on 1 phase and neutral of a 400/230Y distribution which is used in some counties, but not ours.
Yep, it's designed for European electrical systems. They are 240 2 wire, not 120/240 3 wire so you have 240 from neutral rather than 120 like we have here.

If you can get a better pic of the wiring diagram, we could tell if it'd work on the 240 that we have here.
 

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Be careful! Some tubs come with the option of 240V or 120V. If using it on 240V, you just land the other hot leg on the neutral. This is the be careful part, there is either a selector switch, jumper, or dip switch that would have to be changed if it previously was set for 120V. There should be a label somewhere stating how to change the voltage setting.

It could also be what was mentioned, a European model. Other than the 50hz, it should be fine with hot to L1 and the other hot to neutral.
 

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It'll work on 240 L-L in US. Instead of putting the neutral on the N terminal, you'd put the other leg of a 240v single phase circuit on it. Make sure the circuit is protected by a 2 pole GFCI and you have a continuous insulated copper ground and you should be fine.

Most power supplies are universal and will work on a variety of voltages at 50/60hz. You have one of those in this situation.

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Cant see any reason why it wouldnt work on a 240v US circuit. That power supply also looks pretty standard, if it were my own personal equipment I'd just replace with a 120v power supply.
 

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You can buy those AC/DC power supplies at Digikey, Mouser, etc.

Here's where I searched Digikey for TDK (Good brand we use here every day) for 12V output, 5A to 10A. Take your pick of those which work with your input.

 

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I would check for a 3rd party listing like UL , ETL, etc. If it doesn't have it then walk but I agree this looks like a 240v neutral to hot setup which is European. Blue is the color used in Europe for the neutral.

It should work with straight 240 from our system. Again it is probably not listed in the US.
 

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wiring diagram is on the lid of the box. Terminals for 240 are on the outside of the box so who really cares whats in the box.

If you start taking things to bits you will find a lot of power supply's marked the same way as they are to cheap to to print different pc boards for different markets.
 

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Are you insinuating that Europeans live dangerously?

Who says UL is the ultimate authority?

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Have you seen some of the "Electric Shower" installations they have over there? I have an Aunt in Italy, when I went to visit, I took baths. I was NOT going to risk taking a shower with that thing.
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Yes, they are protected by an RCD (their equivalent of a GFCI, but at higher trip levels). But to me that's still like standing in a tub full of water, throwing in a plugged in hair dryer and counting on the GFCI to save your life.

The way it works with NRTL listings and insurance policies is that the insurance company will not "require" you to have an NRTL listing. But IF an accident happens and there is a major payout involved, such as a fire or a death of someone in the hot tub, and the insurance sends an investigator who finds that the cause of the accident can be traced to or associated with the unlisted device, they can either deny the claim, or come after the person who installed it. Yes, you might ultimately "win" the lawsuit because you did not actually supply the unlisted tub, but you will likely go bankrupt in paying your lawyers to defend you, then lose your ability to get insurance and be effectively put out of business. Is that worth it?
 
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