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Blowing fuses and tripping a high limit are 2 different issues.

1. Blowing fuses - Chances are the fuses were blowing because of excess heat from a bad connection with the damaged bus you replaced. What is protecting the circuit in front of your 60A pullout you put in? Are the breakers/fuses and wiring sized properly for the rated load? What is the rating of the elements of the hot water tank? 3000W or so? 2P20A breaker with #14 wire would work, though I usually wire with at least #12 in case they ever go to the 4500W elements.

2. High Limit- Trips based on tank temperature, nothing to do with current flow. High limit is usually set for 170F I believe. Is it seated properly against the tank? The thermostat may have an adjustable range, say 110F-160F. Basic operation is from a cold tank the top element will run first till the upper thermostat turns off (heats the upper half of tank), then the lower stat will turn on the bottom element and heat the rest of the tank/maintain tank temp till the lower stat turns off. If the high limit is tripping, then the tank is overheating, an element isn't shutting off. If the high limit didn't trip, it would keep heating until the pressure relief valve opened...

Very rare to find a residential tank that runs both elements at the same time.
 
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