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Service entrance 1 1/4" rigid conduit. I planned to cut the conduit closer to the brick and use a compression connector, coupling, and rigid offset to try and close the gap. I don't have access to any bending tools of this size. I'd like this to look as clean as possible.

Apparently the original siding block was built out 5 or 6" to meet the meter as it stands. Do I just build the meter backer board out to meet the offset and call it a day?

Plant Building Wood Twig Facade
 

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Service entrance 1 1/4" rigid conduit. I planned to cut the conduit closer to the brick and use a compression connector, coupling, and rigid offset to try and close the gap. I don't have access to any bending tools of this size. I'd like this to look as clean as possible.

Apparently the original siding block was built out 5 or 6" to meet the meter as it stands. Do I just build the meter backer board out to meet the offset and call it a day?

View attachment 168718
Cut the pipe off low change it over to pvc with a atkor compression connector and bend the pvc with a hot box
 

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When I first started out in business I had a partner at first who had more experience in the trade than I had and we ran into a situation where we needed to offset a 2" GRC for a mast riser. But back then I had no tooling for bending rigid steel conduits of that size . His suggestion was this: We fill the pipe with some sand right off the beach at Pipeline, and seal up the ends and then use a cutting torch to heat up the conduit and bend it like PVC , and viola' it works, but that was the only time I ever tried that one. You make the pipe glow cherry red and it gets soft. Work the length just like it was a pvc pipe you were bending using a propane torch with a cherry stone head attachment. After bending pour a bucket of water on it and let it cool down for a good while. Oh, and wear welders gloves.
 

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When I first started out in business I had a partner at first who had more experience in the trade than I had and we ran into a situation where we needed to offset a 2" GRC for a mast riser. But back then I had no tooling for bending rigid steel conduits of that size . His suggestion was this: We fill the pipe with some sand right off the beach at Pipeline, and seal up the ends and then use a cutting torch to heat up the conduit and bend it like PVC , and viola' it works, but that was the only time I ever tried that one. You make the pipe glow cherry red and it gets soft. Work the length just like it was a pvc pipe you were bending using a propane torch with a cherry stone head attachment. After bending pour a bucket of water on it and let it cool down for a good while. Oh, and wear welders gloves.
And add a can of cold galvanizing spray.
 

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And add a can of cold galvanizing spray.
I don't remember if we painted it or the painters did that. It ended looking good though and I got real proud of that. Later on a few years and I bought a 555... And that got stolen and so I got another one. Orange dot series, digital pendent with memory bends. Still got it , cept it runs on contactors now instead of circuit boards...
 

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How about a 6 inch deep rain tight pull box ? Cut the 2 inch conduit down and punch the hole 9n the bottom towards the front and punch one towards the back for the top. Myers hub out the top into the meter.
There might not be an equipment ground preventing a PVC transition.
 

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And a new piece of conduit because thats the dumbest thing I have ever read
50/60 years ago some of us did things like that because of no other options. Is it right? No, but you did things to get it done. My grandfather had many of his tools made by a local blacksmith. There was no tool supply houses let alone electrical supply houses around.
 

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50/60 years ago some of us did things like that because of no other options. Is it right? No, but you did things to get it done. My grandfather had many of his tools made by a local blacksmith. There was no tool supply houses let alone electrical supply houses around.
50/60 years ago some of us did things like that because of no other options. Is it right? No, but you did things to get it done. My grandfather had many of his tools made by a local blacksmith. There was no tool supply houses let alone electrical supply houses around.
They had benders 50-60 year ago too
 

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If you add an offset, the conductors will be too short to reach the existing terminal locations. The simplest repair would be to build out the siding mounting box and then have the siding contractor bend up a box of trim material to cover the mounting block.

In the meantime ask around at your wholesaler who has a bender that would make a couple of bends for you. That’s what I did before I got a machine.
 

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If you add an offset, the conductors will be too short to reach the existing terminal locations. The simplest repair would be to build out the siding mounting box and then have the siding contractor bend up a box of trim material to cover the mounting block.

In the meantime ask around at your wholesaler who has a bender that would make a couple of bends for you. That’s what I did before I got a machine.
I doubt that a 2-3 inch offset is gonna add that much length and I’m sure u can pull some up from the utility transformer
 

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How about a 6 inch deep rain tight pull box ? Cut the 2 inch conduit down and punch the hole 9n the bottom towards the front and punch one towards the back for the top. Myers hub out the top into the meter.
There might not be an equipment ground preventing a PVC transition.
Pull box on an unmetered service riser may either be forbidden or raise a few eyebrows...
 
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