Electrician Talk banner

1 - 20 of 22 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Sparkies,


Been down for a couple years with medical issues and my brain is in a fog. For whatever reason I keep staring at this simple undercabinet light install and for the life of me I can't come up with a simple solution that feels right.


The issue is that the power leads MUST exit the top of the fixture. They can come out anywhere along the top. The end is blocked by the LED transformer. This means the leads will be sent up into the cabinet and must be routed from there.


Do I just put a plug on it, route it through the cabinet and back out through the bottom and plug it into the outlet or switched outlet?


Or do I use conduit or metal clad cable to run the leads through the cabinet, into the stud bay, and directly connect to an added light switch at the current outlet box?


Other ideas appreciated and don't judge me - you don't ever want to be in my shoes. I once could do a weeks worth of work in a day and now I can't think through a simple install. I pray that none of you ever experiences serious medical issues.


Thanks all


 

·
Registered
Joined
·
813 Posts
I guess I would do the BX with a 90 connector at the fixture so it can go straight back to the wall in the cabinet, add a cleat to the front to line up with the one in the back and put a shelf the bottom to hide it and keep a smooth surface in the bottom.
 

·
Hackenschmidt
Joined
·
10,539 Posts
I guess I would do the BX with a 90 connector at the fixture so it can go straight back to the wall in the cabinet, add a cleat to the front to line up with the one in the back and put a shelf the bottom to hide it and keep a smooth surface in the bottom.
I guess that's the way to go, mount the fixture on spacers or a cleat to make some space between the cabinet and the fixture for the cable to exit.

Of course the real answer is take these back and exchange for something that isn't ridiculous to install.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #4
Both good ideas and definitely help me to move forward. I like both the 90 BX inside the cabinet and the BX in a space between the light and cabinet bottom.


I would get another fixture if it were possible.


Much appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
193 Posts
I just had this discussion yesterday with a certified NKBA kitchen designer.
He and I agreed that I would specify the under cabinet lighting on all jobs when we work together. The reason? The electrician knows the exact method of installing them.
New styles of under cabinet lighting can cause installation problems and delays. Some of it is real junk.
 

·
Senile Member
I make all the electrons line up for their Flu shots
Joined
·
30,851 Posts
I guess that's the way to go, mount the fixture on spacers or a cleat to make some space between the cabinet and the fixture for the cable to exit.

Of course the real answer is take these back and exchange for something that isn't ridiculous to install.
Designers and Archie's need to get it into their heads that they are not the end all be all. They spec crap sometimes. If you tell them that they get all upset or else they circle the wagons and refuse to budge. I have a van. It drives in both directions, two and from................. Call me when you get your chit together...........
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,226 Posts
I would fish up a piece of lumex and then install it in some wire mold through the cabinet. Nice and flat and not ugly either.


Tim.
 

·
Petulant Amateur
Joined
·
24,298 Posts
There’s no way I would be drilling holes and running cable through the cabinet. My first question to the customer would be, “Did you keep your receipt?”

Are those fluorescent?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,226 Posts
Hey 99, coffee is over, back to work.


Tim.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7,790 Posts
Can you remove the driver and install remotely?

Can you drill an opening in the back of the fixture and shoot the wiring straight out into the wall? There is always a little bit of room to secure and conceal wiring (NM or smaller) under the cabinets.

When LEDs came into play, we found we could sneak very small LV wire all over the place, even in that tiny space between the cabinets.
 

·
Senile Member
I make all the electrons line up for their Flu shots
Joined
·
30,851 Posts
This is a perfect application for Hawaii Ghetto mold.

Fiffy............. I will never forget this.......... Ever.......





Potato huh......... Why I oughta...............
 
  • Like
Reactions: MTW

·
Work Speaks for Itself
Joined
·
129 Posts
ive installed crappy thick flourescent under cab lights like that before, if thats what they are... if so, they do require nmsc or equivalent wire connections, and even though it looks like sh1t when installed more than 2" out from the back of the wall from the backsplash if any, no one is ever going to see it unless they get their head on the counter and look up. [which is usually the awkward position "im" in when installing/wiring those damn things up]


i will say though, i like the type where all i have to do is provide a receptacle above the cabinets and let some cabinet guy install their undercab lights and he plugs his transformer into the plug i put in. of course that receptacle i put in is on a switch obviously :p
 

·
Senile Member
I make all the electrons line up for their Flu shots
Joined
·
30,851 Posts
Kitchler 4U Series led undercab lights. There, I said it. Change my mind.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
People,
Forgive the huge delay in my follow up. I took some of the suggestions and came up with the best I could for the situation. See photo.
  • There was no way to exit the end of the light fixture
  • It is an LED lamp
  • No way to return it and get a more user friendly device
  • Considered tearing down entire room to the studs but opted not to
  • Considered not doing job but needed to
It is a storage cabinet NOT in a kitchen so the user will have to live with the fix. Lose a small amount of shelf space for the convenience of a switched light fixture under the cabinet. Not my best work nor my worst but it is functional and safe.
Thanks for all the tips.
151478
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
813 Posts
I would have just used a small piece of MC cable and ran it along top of that cleat, way less volume taken up and less fittings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
32 Posts
Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Yes the MC would have been a bit more streamlined but I used what I had on hand. Not using/needing much MC cable for what we do these days.

Plus if it isn't going to be an elegant solution then cram as many fittings as possible into one short run. People will be amazed at your creativity and resourcefulness. :whistle:

Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
63 Posts
Maybe neaten it up by putting a removable shelf over the conduit/box. Put a strip across the back wall and have your shelf sit on it. The job was going to be butt-ugly anyway you did it. Make it "out of sight, out of mind."
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
22,016 Posts
When I see the picture you posted it appears the uc does have a KO. The section you are showing is not the top of the fixture. That section goes against the wall. If there isn't a KO there can you not drill it out?
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
Top