Identifying conductor

2529 Views 23 Replies 8 Participants Last post by cuba_pete, Jan 2, 2014

Gamit

Discussion Starter · Dec 31, 2013

I just failed electrical inspection because my #6 ground wire was taped green and was told it needs to be solid green insulation. After reading 200.6 I see that the grounded conductor (Neutral) needs to have outer sheath permanently marked. Is he correct?

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A Little Short

· #2 · Dec 31, 2013

Gamit said:
I just failed electrical inspection because my #6 ground wire was taped green and was told it needs to be solid green insulation. After reading 200.6 I see that the grounded conductor (Neutral) needs to have outer sheath permanently marked. Is he correct?

What are you wiring?
Are you running cable or individual conductors?

Edit: The ground (EGC) and neutral are two separate conductors.

Gamit

Discussion Starter · #3 · Dec 31, 2013

Think I am wrong it is the EGC and 250.119

A Little Short

· #4 · Dec 31, 2013

Gamit said:
Think I am wrong it is the EGC and 250.119

It needs to be larger than #6, so the inspector is correct.

Gamit

Discussion Starter · #5 · Dec 31, 2013

Little-Lectric said:
It needs to be larger than #6, so the inspector is correct.

Yes he is stupid mistake !!!

Reactions: 1

Meadow

· #6 · Dec 31, 2013

Take a utility knife and strip off the insulation. Inspector wont know.

If I was him I would let it slide, but they always go after the little things

Gamit

Discussion Starter · #7 · Dec 31, 2013

meadow said:
Take a utility knife and strip off the insulation. Inspector wont know. If I was him I would let it slide, but they always go after the little things

I was thinking of that or even but splicing both ends

he also got me for not bringing EGC through both transfer switches continuously

Meadow

· #8 · Dec 31, 2013

Gamit said:
I was thinking of that or even but splicing both ends he also got me for not bringing EGC through both transfer switches continuously

:laughing: As long as its bonded who cares. Sounds like an anul inspector. What he doesn't know wont hurt:whistling2:

backstay

· #9 · Dec 31, 2013

Gamit said:
I was thinking of that or even but splicing both ends he also got me for not bringing EGC through both transfer switches continuously

EGC? Grounding Electrode Conductor? Did he give you a code ref, if not I don't respond.

cuba_pete

· #10 · Dec 31, 2013

backstay said:
EGC? Grounding Electrode Conductor? Did he give you a code ref, if not I don't respond.

EGC and GEC have different rules.

backstay

· #11 · Dec 31, 2013

cuba_pete said:
EGC and GEC have different rules.

That's why I asked.

Meadow

· #12 · Dec 31, 2013

A GEC cant have any splices unless its an irreversible weld/crimp... in lay mans terms that means a continuous wire from panel to rode/water bond.

backstay

· #13 · Dec 31, 2013

meadow said:
A GEC cant have any splices unless its an irreversible weld/crimp... in lay mans terms that means a continuous wire from panel to rode/water bond.

I splice them with a crimp a lot. Take a situation where the GEC is sized correctly when I do a panel change, but it only has one rod. I set another rod and crimp a wire to the original GEC.

Meadow

· #14 · Dec 31, 2013

backstay said:
I splice them with a crimp a lot. Take a situation where the GEC is sized correctly when I do a panel change, but it only has one rod. I set another rod and crimp a wire to the original GEC.

Not saying you cant but in a new install its easier to just avoid it as much as you can. Kind of like splices in a panel.

And not all crimps are rated as irreversible, correct? Ive always thought all were rated like that but I don't know.

mbednarik

· #15 · Dec 31, 2013 (Edited)

GEC's can be spliced on a terminal bar. 250.64 C 2

Reactions: 1

RGH

· #16 · Jan 1, 2014

Little-Lectric said:
It needs to be larger than #6, so the inspector is correct.

# 4 for that....you can run #6 for your water bonds...

backstay

· #17 · Jan 1, 2014

meadow said:
Not saying you cant but in a new install its easier to just avoid it as much as you can. Kind of like splices in a panel.

And not all crimps are rated as irreversible, correct? Ive always thought all were rated like that but I don't know.

I use these.

E-Z-Ground® connectors are designed for direct burial and offer a safe, efficient alternative to exothermic welding products.

http://www.tnb.com/ps/fulltilt/index.cgi?part=BC202

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Reactions: 1

Hack Work

· #18 · Jan 1, 2014

meadow said:
A GEC cant have any splices unless its an irreversible weld/crimp... in lay mans terms that means a continuous wire from panel to rode/water bond.

There's more to it.

The GEC would be the conductor going from the panel to the water pipe. But you can splice on another conductor to go from there to the rods, and that does not have to be irreversible because it's a bonding jumper and not a GEC.

The same with 2 panels, you can splice onto the GEC going into one panel with a non-irreversible splice to bring the bonding jumper into the second panel.

Reactions: 1

backstay

· #19 · Jan 1, 2014

Hack Work said:
There's more to it.

The GEC would be the conductor going from the panel to the water pipe. But you can splice on another conductor to go from there to the rods, and that does not have to be irreversible because it's a bonding jumper and not a GEC.

The same with 2 panels, you can splice onto the GEC going into one panel with a non-irreversible splice to bring the bonding jumper into the second panel.

And if the water pipe is plastic? Then I can skip the GEC?

Hack Work

· #20 · Jan 1, 2014

backstay said:
And if the water pipe is plastic? Then I can skip the GEC?

No, then the GEC would be the conductor going to the ground rods or whatever other type of electrode you were using.

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