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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Several yrs ago i bought a porter cable set of 20V battery tools. I bought a single socket to fit my KO bolt and a hex to square to fit the socket. They stay in the drawer next to all the ko's and that is all i use it for. It does 2" and down in a jiffy, a quick shot of wd40 every time in the bearing and threads makes a noticeable difference. I eventually bought an oversize battery for this job and the side grinder. I love it !!!
Any one else do this?
 

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Bilge Rat
motors and controls.........
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I do mechanical work too so I have a ton of sockets.

I use a Milwaukee M-12 3/8dr for 1/2" and sometimes for 3/4. I use the M-18 1/2dr for larger sizes. I haven't used my hydraulic set for quite a while.

I used air impacts with hand sets back in the day before battery tools, always had a compressor in my van.

For larger sizes, I have quick-connects on my hydraulic set and can use either the hand pump or an air-over-hydraulic pump. For just 1 or 2, I'll usually use the hand pump but for a dozen 4" on top of a switchgear, it sure is nice to have the compressor do the work!
 

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Several yrs ago i bought a porter cable set of 20V battery tools. I bought a single socket to fit my KO bolt and a hex to square to fit the socket. They stay in the drawer next to all the ko's and that is all i use it for. It does 2" and down in a jiffy, a quick shot of wd40 every time in the bearing and threads makes a noticeable difference. I eventually bought an oversize battery for this job and the side grinder. I love it !!!
Any one else do this?
I did that for a while but, all of it wore out so, I bit the bullet and bought one of these sets:
Wheel Tire Product Automotive tire Motor vehicle

We do quite a bit of 2-1/2" to 4" and this just seems fast and easy.
I think we have 4 of these sets now.
 

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I have a Greenlee hydro punch driver set, 9. I have never found anything that can match the speed and it fits in my tool bag. The pump has been rebuilt twice. Works fantastic when you need another 3/4 hole on the same side of combo box.
I believe there are even no name pumps available now days
 

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Hackenschmidt
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I do the same thing, I keep the 1" socket and a 1/4" hex to 3/8" adapter, and a 3/4" hole cutter with impact 1/4" hex shank for the starter hole with the 1/2" - 2" slugbuster set.

Automotive tire Font Camera accessory Auto part Fashion accessory


For 1/2", 3/4", and 1" KOs I usually just use those impact cutters. For 1-1/4" and up I use the carbide cutters quite a bit now, the slugbuster set gets less use.

Several yrs ago i bought a porter cable set of 20V battery tools. I bought a single socket to fit my KO bolt and a hex to square to fit the socket. They stay in the drawer next to all the ko's and that is all i use it for. It does 2" and down in a jiffy, a quick shot of wd40 every time in the bearing and threads makes a noticeable difference. I eventually bought an oversize battery for this job and the side grinder. I love it !!!
Any one else do this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I do the same thing, I keep the 1" socket and a 1/4" hex to 3/8" adapter, and a 3/4" hole cutter with impact 1/4" hex shank for the starter hole with the 1/2" - 2" slugbuster set.

View attachment 158616

For 1/2", 3/4", and 1" KOs I usually just use those impact cutters. For 1-1/4" and up I use the carbide cutters quite a bit now, the slugbuster set gets less use.
I use this for 1/2 and 3/4 holes and also the starter hole for the ko : DEWALT Step Drill Bit Set, 7/8-Inch to 1-1/8-Inch (DWA1789IR) Impact rated, 1/4" hex shank, double spiral cut. This baby SINGS !!!!! I couldnt believe how fast it was and WAY easier than holding onto a drill when the single cut hangs up. I even use a standard 1/4" twist drill for the pilot hole to save the tip on the unibit for hard times
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I use this for 1/2 and 3/4 holes and also the starter hole for the ko : DEWALT Step Drill Bit Set, 7/8-Inch to 1-1/8-Inch (DWA1789IR) Impact rated, 1/4" hex shank, double spiral cut. This baby SINGS !!!!! I couldnt believe how fast it was and WAY easier than holding onto a drill when the single cut hangs up. I even use a standard 1/4" twist drill for the pilot hole to save the tip on the unibit for hard times
I also replaced all my punches with slugbuster style. Soooo much better than the ones with the wavy look
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I do the same thing, I keep the 1" socket and a 1/4" hex to 3/8" adapter, and a 3/4" hole cutter with impact 1/4" hex shank for the starter hole with the 1/2" - 2" slugbuster set.

View attachment 158616

For 1/2", 3/4", and 1" KOs I usually just use those impact cutters. For 1-1/4" and up I use the carbide cutters quite a bit now, the slugbuster set gets less use.
how long does that take to make the hole? less than a minute ?
 

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Estwing magic
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I use Slug Busters and
Pneumatic tool Drill Handheld power drill Tool Hammer drill
Pneumatic tool Handheld power drill Tool Drill accessories Power tool
a Bosch impact driver with the built in 1/2” socket drive. For thick steel I use an old fashioned plug in battleship impact wrench. It’s a poor man’s knockout set and never lets me down.
 

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Hackenschmidt
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how long does that take to make the hole? less than a minute ?
Those little hex shank cutters are way less than a minute in most boxes, in 1/2 - 3/4 - 1" they are quick and easy, until they get dull, then they're done. They don't last that long but they seem to be worth what they cost. I almost always have an impact with me but not always a drill, so the hex shank cutters are handy.

The carbide cutters are very quick, even with stainless. They're expensive but they seem to be holding up well. I use a little vaseline for cutting oil, it's probably not quite as good as the real thing but it's easier to keep and apply in the field.

Carbide cutters, step bits, and KO sets are all expensive and prone to permanent borrows.

Step bits are nice and just one thing to carry for all different sized holes, and the best thing to enlarge a hole, but they make the most mess. The slug you'd have with a hole saw, hole cutter, or punch is all shavings mess with a step bit.
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Those little hex shank cutters are way less than a minute in most boxes, in 1/2 - 3/4 - 1" they are quick and easy, until they get dull, then they're done. They don't last that long but they seem to be worth what they cost. I almost always have an impact with me but not always a drill, so the hex shank cutters are handy.

The carbide cutters are very quick, even with stainless. They're expensive but they seem to be holding up well. I use a little vaseline for cutting oil, it's probably not quite as good as the real thing but it's easier to keep and apply in the field.

Carbide cutters, step bits, and KO sets are all expensive and prone to permanent borrows.

Step bits are nice and just one thing to carry for all different sized holes, and the best thing to enlarge a hole, but they make the most mess. The slug you'd have with a hole saw, hole cutter, or punch is all shavings mess with a step bit.
I agree with you. 3/4" is as big as i go with the unibit, the magnet on the torpedo level gets the shavings quick. Also saw on the tips page to put a baggie over the magnet and turn it inside out to clean/bag the shavings. 1" and up to 2" is the slug buster KO. to date i have once or twice needed a bigger KO than 2". That was when i used hole saws. I very seldom need to make KO's anyway, so i dont need to invest that much in it.
 

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I too use a impacter with KO's works fantastic.
I also use a spoting drill for pilot holes . If I am going to punch a 3/4 or larger hole I use a true 3/4" holesaw. The clearance between the hole and the drive bolt is close enough I don't have to align the marks on the KO cup.
The spoting drill is generally not used for drilling holes but for drilling in cabinets it works fine. You can catch them on sale from Travers Tools from time to time.
LC
 

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Tool Fetish
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Just snapped a few draw studs on one of my hydraulic KOs sets doing a stainless steel job. Found these stainless KOs from Southwire. The 1" up to the 3" (all that I needed at this time) have 3 cutting edges. The Greenlee slug splitters with two cutting points always seemed to tip to one side and jam or snap the studs. Just don't ask how much they were. Check my nick name.
Product Automotive lighting Audio equipment Automotive engine gasket Electronic instrument
 

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Those little hex shank cutters are way less than a minute in most boxes, in 1/2 - 3/4 - 1" they are quick and easy, until they get dull, then they're done. They don't last that long but they seem to be worth what they cost. I almost always have an impact with me but not always a drill, so the hex shank cutters are handy.

The carbide cutters are very quick, even with stainless. They're expensive but they seem to be holding up well. I use a little vaseline for cutting oil, it's probably not quite as good as the real thing but it's easier to keep and apply in the field.

Carbide cutters, step bits, and KO sets are all expensive and prone to permanent borrows.

Step bits are nice and just one thing to carry for all different sized holes, and the best thing to enlarge a hole, but they make the most mess. The slug you'd have with a hole saw, hole cutter, or punch is all shavings mess with a step bit.
Whose carbide cutters do you use? I haven't had very good success in making them last.
ETA I'm talking about using them in stainless

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Hackenschmidt
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Whose carbide cutters do you use? I haven't had very good success in making them last.
ETA I'm talking about using them in stainless
I have Lenox, I found some good prices and figured I'd try them. CMP had a recommendation for a better brand in this thread, I'll probably try Blair if these go.


I always heard to use low speed and high pressure with stainless, but I think in the past I was not going low enough and pressing hard enough, I'm getting much better results lately. If it doesn't cut well, I take a break, let it cool, and try to go even slower and press even harder.
 

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I have good luck with the Ideal Carbide holesaws.
You can also use ANCHORLUBE it looks like green shavingcream for a cutting lubricant when working with stainless steel. You can get Anchorlube at Fastenal . It is for stainless but it will work with any steel.
LC
 
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Old Grumpy Bastard
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I had used an impact and 1" socket for years when just making occasional KOs, it worls fine and it didn't seem to wear anything out prematurely.

Now that punching holes is even more rare for me I normally use an impact.
 

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O volts to lightning
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I have good luck with the Ideal Carbide holesaws.
You can also use ANCHORLUBE it looks like green shavingcream for a cutting lubricant when working with stainless steel. You can get Anchorlube at Fastenal . It is for stainless but it will work with any steel.
LC
I second the use of AnchorLube for stainless. It is water based, and really prolongs the life of drills and holesaws and cutters
 

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You can pull a hole damn quick with a 3/4" air gun lol.

We use our carbide cutter sets most the time plastic/steel/SS, lots of holes a cordless punch, haven't used the hydro in a while. Only problem with the impact is on big cans you can have some wicked noise.
 
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