[HARRY304E]

ok so in depth my question is can you use a 240VAC infinite switch like the ones on the stove on 110VAC provided that the load of the 110 circuit does not exceed the original (1500W in my case) application???

What would be the adverse effects?
Would it still trigger the bimetal stripe?
Would there be a delay in the triggering of the cut off making the unit stay hotter for longer?

please if you could spare me the obvious, you should never do this / safty label stuff, i have been in this dangerous electrical stiff for 14 years, but i have no experiance with infinite switches, and thusly have registered for the first forum on google! also the information i have researched on infinite switches is sort of limited as if no one knew how they worked o

:laughing:

Try this it might help you...http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/21420/operation-of-infinite-switch

I really don't know if it will make difference,,,,,Welcome to ET......:thumbup:

 

[tbilliax]

THANKS for the welcome and the first answer, I had read that before but i never put it to this perspective

From article:

 If on time is approximately proportional to heater power then  doubling element wattage will reduce on time by a factor of 4. Off time  can be expected to be close to constant as temperature at turnoff will  presumably be similar and cooling time should be largely unrelated to  heating rate. So, imagine that a controller was running at 66 time units  on, 34 time units off. Doubling element wattage can be expected to  reduce on time to about 16 time units. So duty cycle goes from 66/99 =  2/3 = 0.666 to 16/5= = 0.32 or 2:1. That sounds very good.
 BUT if originally running at say 20:80 = 0.20 it would change to 5/85 = 0.06 or 30% of original.
 At the other extreme, of running at 90:10 = 0.90 it would change to 70 % of original.
 ie Doubling the element wattage will
 reduce power by about 30% at high heat settings,
 reduce power output by 70% at low settings.
 reduce power output by 50% at medium settings.   This means that a higher Wattage element will reduce output for a  given setting and have an increasing date of getting hot a the top end.

in effect the element would be the same wattage but lower voltage, if you put it that way i have no change, but i have a hard time with that as i have tested 220 elements plugged into 120 and they only yeild a third of the potential. I think this will work but i am not sure how well it will work...

As for wiring a test youd wire L1 to hot and L2 to nuetral H1 and H2 to the heater and call it a day since you dont have 2 hots, am i correct on this?

 

[JRaef]

Hmmm... here I am at my keyboard, knowing the answers, but reluctant to provide them for two reasons, one professional, one personal. Here's why I vote this thread should be locked.

1) The flippant attitude of "please if you could spare me the obvious, you should never do this / safty label stuff, i have been in this dangerous electrical stiff for 14 years". There is an old adage: there are old electricians, and there are bold electricians, but there are no old bold electricians. You of course are not actually an electrician, you profess to be a "Robotics Engineer", but despite your arrogance, that rule applies to you too. Using things for purposes other than their intended application design is fraught with risks and dangers. There should be nothing flippant about it. "Stiff" may yet prove to be a prophetic mistake...

2) This is more personal than professional. I hate the use of the term "tard" as a derogatory statement. As the father of a child with a developmental disability, I find that offensive. To those of us who live with people that, through no fault of their own, came up short on the chromosomal lottery, it's like using the N-word.

 

[Speedy Petey]

I fully agree with JRaef regarding the language, terms and flippant attitude of the OP.


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