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Discussion Starter #1
I am trimming out a job right now and it seems, as always, I got very little depth to work with on the island receptacles.

I am not going with the pop ups in the granite.

I usually end up installing a faceless GFCI behind the drawer and feed to shallow boxes on one or both ends.

Here is what I have to work with.










How would you guys handle this? I have my game plan. No counter pop- ups please.
 

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Check these out here. You will have to put the gfci somewhere else




 

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Jesus Scott
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I am trimming out a job right now and it seems, as always, I got very little depth to work with on the island receptacles.

I am not going with the pop ups in the granite.

I usually end up installing a faceless GFCI behind the drawer and feed to shallow boxes on one or both ends.
GFCI behind the drawer is a violation. It's not readily accessible. I'm assuming the drawers are full depth boxes as far as their sides/height goes. I'd convince the carpenter to modify the drawer box so I could use a regular depth box with one receptacle on the end that is least visible.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I run into situations like that all the time

what I would do is install the gfci on the countertop and then set a jbox in the crawl space.
carflex the wire for protection and install the slim blue boxes with standard receptacles in the side.


http://www.homedepot.com/p/Carlon-1-Gang-8-cu-in-Old-Work-Flanged-Shallow-Box-B108R-UPC/100404058#.Ungr65V3tZc

If you ran a circuit from the panel just for the island, then your best bet would be a gfci breaker.
That was my game plan. I was going to put a faceless GFCI behind the drawer and use shallow boxes.

I ran a 3 wire just incase. I guess I could place a SP GFCI breaker in the panel since the second circuit won't be used, at least by me.
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
GFCI behind the drawer is a violation. It's not readily accessible. I'm assuming the drawers are full depth boxes as far as their sides/height goes. I'd convince the carpenter to modify the drawer box so I could use a regular depth box with one receptacle on the end that is least visible.
Does it have to be readily accessible, or just accessible?

I am asking because I have never been called on it.
EDIT:
I have never been called because my faceless has always been under the sink.
Thank you someonespecial..

I will put a GFCI breaker in the panel.
 

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GFCI behind the drawer is a violation. It's not readily accessible. I'm assuming the drawers are full depth boxes as far as their sides/height goes. I'd convince the carpenter to modify the drawer box so I could use a regular depth box with one receptacle on the end that is least visible.
Could you bring you feed up under the sink, place your faceless GFCI, then go back down to feed your island?
 

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Thanks Dennis. I have seen those posted, but I think I am limited to 2" with the drawers installed.
There is usually space in the back. If not get the cabinet guy to cut back the top drawer-- that is his responsibility
 
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Jesus Scott
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Does it have to be readily accessible, or just accessible?

I am asking because I have never been called on it.
Could you bring you feed up under the sink, place your faceless GFCI, then go back down to feed your island?
'08 I don't think so. '11 yes, readily accessible.

That little blue box isn't legal either even with 1 12/2. 2.25x2 for conductors. 2.25 for EGC. 2.25x2 for device. That's 5x2.25= 11.25cu inches. That box is 8cu inches

It seems debatable whether or not a GFCI in a cabinet is "readily accessible" My opinion is no.
 

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There is usually space in the back. If not get the cabinet guy to cut back the top drawer-- that is his responsibility
the only problem with that scenario is the drawer would probably need to be cut in half.

look at the panels and you will notice you would have to place your box between 6 - 12 from the back corner.

using the shallow box, route the carflex all the way to the back of the cabinet, and tuck it tight to the countertop and then it should tuck between the railing where it enters the box.

not the most practical way, but it works.

next time I do one like this, Ill take pictures.
 

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the only problem with that scenario is the drawer would probably need to be cut in half.

look at the panels and you will notice you would have to place your box between 6 - 12 from the back corner.

using the shallow box, route the carflex all the way to the back of the cabinet, and tuck it tight to the countertop and then it should tuck between the railing where it enters the box.

not the most practical way, but it works.

next time I do one like this, Ill take pictures.
In the first picture I can install a sillite rec all the way in the back corner at the top band
 

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In the first picture I can install a sillite rec all the way in the back corner at the top band

possibly, depending on how the cabinet is put together


and if the island doesn't have a sink or cooktop dividing it you would only need one on one end
 

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And even if it does one might still be all that's required depending on the size of the counter top
I guess every island I have a sink or cooktop in, there is less than 12" of counter space behind them

never had one where there was more so 2 or more have always been required
 
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