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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
First, I am much more experienced with automation and light industrial where we are constantly creating solutions for unique situations.

That being said, a customer/friend is asking if I can create a fix for the following residential project:
1. They stripped the old exterior of their home and applied stucco.
2. They left a roughed in exterior single box at the front of the house with power coming from a nearby outlet inside of the house.
3. As it turns out the line they tapped into is one of the primary power sources for their home office. They are afraid if they have an exterior GFCI available that some contractor will try to run a 20 amp tool on it and create major problems with computers or whatever is plugged into the interior side.

IDEAS
1. Cannot easily get a different supply to this exterior outlet.
2. Having the outlet outside at the current location is ideal for their needs. Seasonal lighting, minor garden or power tools.
3. It is a given that we will need to place a battery backup/power conditioner inside for whatever electronics are being powered by this line. It doesn't need to be huge, just enough to avoid shutting of a PC abruptly or having too much noise on the line.
4. Other than placing signage on the outlet about the limitations, which someone is going to ignore, I have considered a fix but don't know how it works with residential code -

The fix I considered was going on as planned with a 15 amp GFCI in an approved exterior outlet box with cover and adding a 10 amp push button breaker, panel mounted on the exterior box so it can be reset at the outlet.

Does anyone know any reason why this would not be allowed?

Any other ideas I may be overlooking?
The original idea was good and doing it while the exterior sheathing was removed was another good idea. Taking it from one of the home office main supplies was not.

Any help is appreciated.

Greg
 

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How about putting a double gang box on the inside.
Install a regular standard receptacle, pig tail off to a GFCI receptacle, then feed the outside receptacle off the GFCI receptacle.
Swap the outside GFCI for a standard receptacle.
Trip the GFCI on the inside receptacle.
Only you can reset it from inside.
The outside receptacle is protected.
You still have a standard receptacle that stays ON.

Or add a switch on the wall above the inside receptacle and drop a two wire down to the receptacle. Switch the wire going outside.
I did the switch thing so we don't have to go outside to plug or unplug the Christmas lights.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
How about putting a double gang box on the inside.
Install a regular standard receptacle, pig tail off to a GFCI receptacle, then feed the outside receptacle off the GFCI receptacle.
Swap the outside GFCI for a standard receptacle.
Trip the GFCI on the inside receptacle.
Only you can reset it from inside.
The outside receptacle is protected.
You still have a standard receptacle that stays ON.

Or add a switch on the wall above the inside receptacle and drop a two wire down to the receptacle. Switch the wire going outside.
I did the switch thing so we don't have to go outside to plug or unplug the Christmas lights.
Good idea with the switch, etc., on the inside. What about limiting current? The GFCI is required by code and is common sense, but they would like to limit current so that someone doesn't try to run heavy duty tools/equipment on that line.
 

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You're over thinking this, Respectively either add a dedicated circuit to the electronics or " place a battery backup/power conditioner inside for whatever electronics are being powered by this line.": That'll cure you're problem. Then you're done.
As per code, Their are as you must know several circuits in the house that are not allowed to have other outlets on them. The office space not being one of them.
 

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Hackenschmidt
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I agree that this is unnecessary, this sounds like an oddball DIY post. How often are people wandering by and plugging in big motors? Has it ever actually happened? I very seldom trip circuits with my corded power tools. If you have a UPS on the important stuff in the home office, it's a lot of bother for a once a year or maybe once in a lifetime situation.

You could use one of those fused receptacles which gives you an edison base fuseholder in a cover plate, but it won't be outdoor rated.

You could put a 10a breaker in a disconnect above the receptacle and switch loop through that, I think that would be compliant and straightforward but still unnecessary.

155648
 

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I like the padlock on the in-use cover idea, but if you are concerned somebody will defeat it, you can add a switch to the office receptacle feeding the exterior receptacle. Just feed the exterior through the switch.
 

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Bilge Rat
motors and controls.........
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The UPS on critical equipment is the best idea by far.

If the equipment is that critical, a UPS should be used anyway; what if the PUCO power fails?
 

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You can't plan for everything, if you go with a breaker like you suggested a short circuit may still trip the inside breaker.
UPS with built in alarm beeper to notify person in home office circuit is off.

Cowboy
 

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They are afraid if they have an exterior GFCI available that some contractor will try to run a 20 amp tool on it and create major problems with computers or whatever is plugged into the interior side.
Give the contractor an extension cord. :geek:
 
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And install a new exterior outlet on a dedicated circuit close to the panel for contractor use.
You or I, or any electrician on this site would do that !

But OP said it would be difficult. That's a showstopper :ROFLMAO:
 
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Just going the throw this out there:

-Customer/friend is inventing a problem where none exists. Contractors don't just plug power-hungry tools into anyone's outlet. My roofing contractor and tile contractor first inform that they need a 20 amp circuit, and specifically ask to use the washer machine receptacle. Contractors generally know when their tools surpass the limitations of a random residential circuit and they know that exterior receptacles can be interconnected with interior circuits, the bathroom GFCI's, any random room circuit, and do not want the headache of a problem or having to apologize for tripping circuits or difficult to locate GFCIs.

- Nobody's home office is "critical" equipment. You are not hosting the federal government's nuclear launch sequences. Bank transactions are not routed through your server for 3rd party authentication. Admit that a sudden power loss might interrupt your saved skins in World of Warcraft, or your queued up favorites on PornHub, and get real.

- You're an engineer and looking at the situation as if it were an engineering problem. It isn't, but your only tool is a hammer so everything has to be a nail. The circuit in the "home office" is likely shared with other receptacles NOT in the home office, and the same "issue" that "someone might" plug a 12 amp vacuum or "non-casual power tool" into one of those exists there as well. Are you going to put signs on those receptacles and push button breakers too?

Lock the cover on the receptacle and be done with this.
 

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I think these are critical. Also online poker games.
Imagine you were holding a royal flush .... about to win BIG !!!!! .... and poof, contractor starts his electric jackhammer :ROFLMAO:
 
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Imagine you were holding a royal flush .... about to win BIG !!!!! .... and poof, contractor starts his electric jackhammer :ROFLMAO:
Imagine if you were about to royally slush... about to score BIG !!!!! ..... and poof, contractor starts his electric jackhammer 🥵 well at least there's still some jackhammering going on.
 
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