Buy 1/4" graph paper, you can make it any scale you need! Buy a bi-fold, put it in there. You can search and find loose leaf graph paper and lay out (fill-in's) client, address, power size, etc; and run it through your printer after you set up all that you want printed out on said sheet.
If you don't buy graph paper you can buy a pair of two different styles of triangles and learn to draw straight lines off of combining them together, buy a 45 and 60 degree 5-6" triangles.
I'd look for .07 or .09 refillable lead pencils with types H or HB lead, HB is a little. The fatter leads are easier for sketching and don't rip any paper like .03 and .05 leads do...
Accounting for circuits depends on how much you chase a circuit, I would be more interested in the home runs and how many receptacles are hanging of of that branch circuit.
If you do this much work I'd suggest getting a laser reader to walk into a room and shoot, X,Y,Z, and a stud finder!
One might have to account for both wall structural spacing 16" or 24" and maybe beam spacing.
Remember older framing in a wall might well have a mid brace to drill through.
Off the corner of a wall with a stud finder you can figure out the distance to
the first stud of the edge to start the stub spacing. This might or might not be important.
The other things you might make note on the drawing is the ceiling heights and type of wall and floor finishs and or course if
they have large wooded baseboards, that you might be able to use.
I'm not sure that 1 a customer would like to know that their paying for a sketch or any sort or hard copy of their property,
2 that their property is now sketched out, 3 that you think you need to do all this to get electrical work done.
It can get sensitive, and it or might be an issue, when you mention stetching
and documenting...
Drafting and even accounting can be very time comsuming. Transfering a field sketch to a computer is just more time.
If you don't buy graph paper you can buy a pair of two different styles of triangles and learn to draw straight lines off of combining them together, buy a 45 and 60 degree 5-6" triangles.
I'd look for .07 or .09 refillable lead pencils with types H or HB lead, HB is a little. The fatter leads are easier for sketching and don't rip any paper like .03 and .05 leads do...
Accounting for circuits depends on how much you chase a circuit, I would be more interested in the home runs and how many receptacles are hanging of of that branch circuit.
If you do this much work I'd suggest getting a laser reader to walk into a room and shoot, X,Y,Z, and a stud finder!
One might have to account for both wall structural spacing 16" or 24" and maybe beam spacing.
Remember older framing in a wall might well have a mid brace to drill through.
Off the corner of a wall with a stud finder you can figure out the distance to
the first stud of the edge to start the stub spacing. This might or might not be important.
The other things you might make note on the drawing is the ceiling heights and type of wall and floor finishs and or course if
they have large wooded baseboards, that you might be able to use.
I'm not sure that 1 a customer would like to know that their paying for a sketch or any sort or hard copy of their property,
2 that their property is now sketched out, 3 that you think you need to do all this to get electrical work done.
It can get sensitive, and it or might be an issue, when you mention stetching
and documenting...
Drafting and even accounting can be very time comsuming. Transfering a field sketch to a computer is just more time.
