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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Liquid tight teck90 under cable ran under the ground to garage from house. Teck outer cover removed and cable stub up into11/4 pvc ran into house through pvc LB and cable terminated at panel. Suggestions on fix. My thought was remove pvc install metal conduit to attach teck90 and put grounding bushing on end of lb in house the run an insulated ground from ground bushing into panel which solves teck90 outer metal sheath bonding issue.
 

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I actually had that EXACT same problem last year. Just crap joe-handyman stuff.

Looked at the GC, looked at 30 feet to the house. Said to the GC and current owner. I'm heading to the Supply place to pick up some 1-1/4 pvc and 6/3 NMW. It's going to cost this much. When I get back I want the ditch to be 2' down, and this crap out of here.

The GC, his helper, the owner all looked at themselves, then at the shovels. And it was done.

For the most part the handyman stuff was buried at the handyman level of 6 to 8 inches also.

I suspect your job is also in a shallow ditch on account it's metal you see.

Trash it!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
The teck cable is buried 2 to 3 ft underground its #3 gauge 40ft run. Looking to bring up to code if at all possible.
 

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The teck cable is buried 2 to 3 ft underground its #3 gauge 40ft run. Looking to bring up to code if at all possible.
Yes! Yes! Yes! That's what they told me.:laughing: Of course I could see where they brought it up to the garage and for 2 feet back I just gave her a bit of a tug and up she came.

You can see thru the dirt? Dig her down at the entrance points. If it's ok it's OK I guess. But if the metal is busted then she is busted.

Replace it and take out a permit.
 

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I guess you could run metal conduit to the panel or j-box in each building. Then NMD from the j-boxes to where they go. If you have to say run ridged steel for a couple of feet or so underground at the entrances, not sure how you will attach the teck underground.

Might be some type of brass fittings?
 

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Solves the bonding issue, but not the unarmored teck cable. It may look like NMD/NMWU, but I don't think it qualifies.

I have always terminated in an lb, run the conduit all the way, stripped the sheath and pushed the conductors in
 

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Liquid tight teck90 under cable ran under the ground to garage from house. Teck outer cover removed and cable stub up into11/4 pvc ran into house through pvc LB and cable terminated at panel. Suggestions on fix. My thought was remove pvc install metal conduit to attach teck90 and put grounding bushing on end of lb in house the run an insulated ground from ground bushing into panel which solves teck90 outer metal sheath bonding issue.
Where is the outer rubber jacket removed? The armor removed? In the PVC sleeves above ground? If so then redo the conduit with Aluminum or GRS and use a teck connector rated for the application.. If underground, how far is it? How tough to replace and do it right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Yeah I think the inner rubber cover is just for mechanical protection though the panel and this cable are in closed in alcove with doors , I would like to pipe it in to the panel unfortunately hole is already there and to close to the panel to pipe it in. So looks like removing the pvc make sure the teck is still good condition and right depth install ridge metal Lb and stub to teck remove rubber cover over conductors and pipe into junction box at panel then run a piece teck to panel. Or scrap it and run new pvc run unfornately the run is under a ductless heatpump. So im just looking for the proper fittings to connect 11/4 ridge conduit to 3awg liquid tight teck which is a l inch teck connector. I would think 11/4 to 1 inch reducer female to female then conection to teck connector but im not sure thats code?
 

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Yeah I think the inner rubber cover is just for mechanical protection though the panel and this cable are in closed in alcove with doors , I would like to pipe it in to the panel unfortunately hole is already there and to close to the panel to pipe it in. So looks like removing the pvc make sure the teck is still good condition and right depth install ridge metal Lb and stub to teck remove rubber cover over conductors and pipe into junction box at panel then run a piece teck to panel. Or scrap it and run new pvc run unfornately the run is under a ductless heatpump. So im just looking for the proper fittings to connect 11/4 ridge conduit to 3awg liquid tight teck which is a l inch teck connector. I would think 11/4 to 1 inch reducer female to female then conection to teck connector but im not sure thats code?
1 1/4" conduit to teck cable.. Use an 1 1/4" coupling, a RE43 (or RE43SA if using aluminum conduit) and an STE100 or ST100-469 teck connector.. On the nipple in the panel, use an L125GRL if you want a bonding bushing at the panel to bond the armor, otherwise just a plastic bushing. It will pass all day long, if the cable is cut in properly..

Also.. Not to nit pick, but it's not called "liquid tight teck cable".. Liquid tight is a type of seal tight flex and has no wires inside it from the factory.. Teck cable comes with the wires inside already..
 
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