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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
And to think someone was worried about cutting in a 3 gang switch box into block then I see this hackery
I know, the house was built in 1966, I’m sure it was up to code back then but even if it is grandfathered in I’m not going to leave it like that. I got four 6”x24” 16 gauge plates for $50, Ill put fake PVC wood 2x2 up either side of the cable with tapcon screws and put the plate over the top.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 ·
Just finish smashing out the blocks. Who nails a strap into the grout line anyways?
Mate, this is how it has been installed back in 1966, I don't like it but not much i can do about it, owners cant afford to replace it and Florida Power say they don't replace service installed cables as its still working. FP wont go underground all is fed in from a pole and the pole for this house means the cable has to run throughout the whole house. Trying to make this safe and its was not part of the original job but found once the drywall was stripped off. Don’t like the handy Mandy comment to be honest, I came here looking for ideas to fix it and see that some folks don't want to help just want to talk smart but not really share ideas which is fine. I prefer to help as I’m doing here with the owners here. Cable is in good condition and no damage, if there was I’d replace it. I’m pushing to replace it and run in conduit but thats a very expensive job. Thanks to those who have suggested fixes.
 

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Hackenschmidt
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Get a piece of EMT, rip it in half, and strap it over the SE
You can buy the stuff that the utilities buy to protect cables on the pole, ask for U-Guard, like a piece of EMT ripped in half but with screw down flanges so it's easy to install.

Automotive lighting Rectangle Automotive exterior Vehicle door Bumper
 

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Mate, this is how it has been installed back in 1966, I don't like it but not much i can do about it, owners cant afford to replace it and Florida Power say they don't replace service installed cables as its still working. FP wont go underground all is fed in from a pole and the pole for this house means the cable has to run throughout the whole house. Trying to make this safe and its was not part of the original job but found once the drywall was stripped off. Don’t like the handy Mandy comment to be honest, I came here looking for ideas to fix it and see that some folks don't want to help just want to talk smart but not really share ideas which is fine. I prefer to help as I’m doing here with the owners here. Cable is in good condition and no damage, if there was I’d replace it. I’m pushing to replace it and run in conduit but thats a very expensive job. Thanks to those who have suggested fixes.
I get that you are trying to help out.
I applaud that, i do that my self
I get that they cant/wont spend the money, you are limited in what they want done

BUT
you need to think about what comes after the job is over
what if something goes wrong with that feeder?
what happens to your reputation?
where does your liability start and end?
what if the HO dies in the feeder accident and their kinfolks sue you?

Extreme and unlikely ,,, yes
possible .,,, yes

people go nuts when their family dies

i have been to call outs to fix a minor deal,
looked around for a few mins and saw so many safety issues that it would take all day to fix
first one was arial service wire leaving the main panel and sometimes buried an inch or so, then lying on the ground to this trailer

i told them they didnt owe me but i would not work on any part of that trailer
and left
 

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Discussion Starter · #47 ·
I get that you are trying to help out.
I applaud that, i do that my self
I get that they cant/wont spend the money, you are limited in what they want done

BUT
you need to think about what comes after the job is over
what if something goes wrong with that feeder?
what happens to your reputation?
where does your liability start and end?
what if the HO dies in the feeder accident and their kinfolks sue you?

Extreme and unlikely ,,, yes
possible .,,, yes

people go nuts when their family dies

i have been to call outs to fix a minor deal,
looked around for a few mins and saw so many safety issues that it would take all day to fix
first one was arial service wire leaving the main panel and sometimes buried an inch or so, then lying on the ground to this trailer

i told them they didnt owe me but i would not work on any part of that trailer
and left
Great points and all taken on board and appreciated. The main problem I dealing with is if I’m not going to make it safe someone else will come in and do it without making it safe. At the moment trying to hire a decent tradesman is very difficult most are booked months out and that leads to additional problems. Again really appreciate the points.
 

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Big nosed attic troll
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Great points and all taken on board and appreciated. The main problem I dealing with is if I’m not going to make it safe someone else will come in and do it without making it safe. At the moment trying to hire a decent tradesman is very difficult most are booked months out and that leads to additional problems. Again really appreciate the points.
None of that is your problem though
 

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I applaud you for that attitude as well.
An Excellent point

I would go with splatz in post 43 (you can get them smaller) and then fur over it like you said
dont forget that ppl will drive in a 6" nail cause that is all they have, or the picture is really heavy

just tell them you dont want their house on fire or in the dark
they will have to live with it till they can afford better

i would feel safe enough doing that for someone else
that feeder has been working fine for years, it should last a few more
just be sure they understand the time limitations of continuing with it
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
None of that is your problem though
Technically I agree, but if it's an easy fix to make it safe why would you not help? Again this is why I asked for ideas and hoped to use this group to see if any of the 1000's of years of experience the members of this site have could be put to use to help here. If not or the solution still is a $5k feeder install then fair enough. But you never know a simple ask here may turn out the answer. I shared Colorado Jim's earlier as a way to space 1.5" off furring strips rather or as well as the other suggested ideas. Who know an inspector may fail sticky cable ties but pass CJ's. Just trying to get and possibly give help.
 

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Big nosed attic troll
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Technically I agree, but if it's an easy fix to make it safe why would you not help? Again this is why I asked for ideas and hoped to use this group to see if any of the 1000's of years of experience the members of this site have could be put to use to help here. If not or the solution still is a $5k feeder install then fair enough. But you never know a simple ask here may turn out the answer. I shared Colorado Jim's earlier as a way to space 1.5" off furring strips rather or as well as the other suggested ideas. Who know an inspector may fail sticky cable ties but pass CJ's. Just trying to get and possibly give help.
I'm not Mother Mary Teresa, I'm a contractor. So help comes in forms of contracts, bids and etc. And an inspector can only fail you with something from the code book or legally adopted local amendments....
 

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Big nosed attic troll
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Smart assery aside, a metal guard is your best bet, as splatz suggested. A piece of angle iron would also work. Those are unfused service conductors? Yikes. Chat with your inspector.
At what point does that guard need bonding, as its technically now an enclosure/raceway of current carrying conductors?
Do you understand what a “raceway” is?
 

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Hackenschmidt
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Smart assery aside, a metal guard is your best bet, as splatz suggested. A piece of angle iron would also work. Those are unfused service conductors? Yikes. Chat with your inspector.
At what point does that guard need bonding, as its technically now an enclosure/raceway of current carrying conductors?
The NEC requires you to bond anything metal that's "likely to become energized" which is pretty subjective, but if anything is, it's this. But the code does allow for a distinction between stubs used for protection of cables and full raceway systems. So even if you sleeved it in conduit for a few feet it's not a full raceway system subject to all the rules a raceway would be.
 

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Big nosed attic troll
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The NEC requires you to bond anything metal that's "likely to become energized" which is pretty subjective, but if anything is, it's this. But the code does allow for a distinction between stubs used for protection of cables and full raceway systems. So even if you sleeved it in conduit for a few feet it's not a full raceway system subject to all the rules a raceway would be.
So by your logic, every sleeve and nail protection should be boned to the ges?
 

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Hackenschmidt
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So by your logic, every sleeve and nail protection should be boned to the ges?
Well it's subjective, there's no logic. Is it any different from a nailer plate? I'd say it is. I figure if anything metal is likely to become energized, it's a piece of metal covering five feet of cable with rotting insulation around unfused conductors hidden in a 1-1/2" void between the foundation and finished basement drywall. If that's not likely to become energized, I'd like to hear exactly what is likely to become energized. But I don't think you could make the leap from there to every nailer in the house.
 

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Big nosed attic troll
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Well it's subjective, there's no logic. Is it any different from a nailer plate? I'd say it is. I figure if anything metal is likely to become energized, it's a piece of metal covering five feet of cable with rotting insulation around unfused conductors hidden in a 1-1/2" void between the foundation and finished basement drywall. If that's not likely to become energized, I'd like to hear exactly what is likely to become energized. But I don't think you could make the leap from there to every nailer in the house.
I see no rot…. Can you define where this rot is?
 

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Hackenschmidt
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I see no rot…. Can you define where this rot is?
No I can not.
It's a 150amp rated aluminum cable installed by Florida Power back when the house was built in 1966. It's not NM as it's aluminum cable the gage looks to be 3/0 or 4/0. The cable is old and I can't read any info on it as it has a black tar like substance on it.
 

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Estwing magic
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Mate, this is how it has been installed back in 1966, I don't like it but not much i can do about it, owners cant afford to replace it and Florida Power say they don't replace service installed cables as its still working. FP wont go underground all is fed in from a pole and the pole for this house means the cable has to run throughout the whole house. Trying to make this safe and its was not part of the original job but found once the drywall was stripped off. Don’t like the handy Mandy comment to be honest, I came here looking for ideas to fix it and see that some folks don't want to help just want to talk smart but not really share ideas which is fine. I prefer to help as I’m doing here with the owners here. Cable is in good condition and no damage, if there was I’d replace it. I’m pushing to replace it and run in conduit but thats a very expensive job. Thanks to those who have suggested fixes.
Most everybody is here to help. Please ignore those who are not. Welcome to the forum.
 
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