I can’t recall ever seeing a restriction on the number of receptacles that can be supplied downstream of a GFCI receptacle or blank face device, so I reviewed the listed instructions included with the P&S, Leviton, Cooper and some generic brand that I stock for my cheapskate Craigslist customers. They make no reference to such a restriction, so let good wiring practice be your guide here. As noted, excessively long runs can lead to nuisance tripping. I personally feel it’s generally not a good idea to feed receptacles in a different room or common areas downstream from a GFCI receptacle in another room, as it can become chaotic locating the GFCI to reset it if it trips.Wow! Never knew this was such a heated topic! This question was for my adolescent health treatment facility. My boss was wanting to have all receptacles in the sleeping areas GFCI protected. I told him the cheapest way would be to install a GFCI receptacle at the beginning of the circuit, thus protecting the outlets after it. Some circuits, according to the prints, serve multiple rooms and hallway receptcales.
That's what drove my question. I knew the 80% load limiting, and the rooms only have clock radios so overloading is not an issue.
Installing GFCI breakers for the circuits would have cost over $7K.
I don't understand your logic. How do you calculate an unknown load?of course there rated for 15 or 20 amps.. I never said there not....Im just anwsering the question on calculating loads for a recepticle....1.5x12=18...but you should always caluculate at least 1 device to be 1.9 to be safe for a continous load. Im not saying each device is rated 1.5 amps....im saying it should be calculated 1.5amps when calculating a circuit
I don't understand your logic. How do you calculate an unknown load?
Suppose you have a GFI in your garage that feeds 4 outside receps. What is the load on those outside receps? String trmmer? Landscape lighting? Holiday decorations? I've seen outside receps that look like they've never been used. How do you calculate that?
Put the same GFI in a kitchen, and install 2 downstream receps. Now you've got a coffee maker, toaster and micro going all at once.
You could certainly apply those restrictions to your residential installations if you wanted, but those aren't NEC requirements.On page 112 of the 2008 code, 220.14 says - other loads---ALL occupancies.
180va (watts) per duplex/triplex or individual single outlet
180 watts/120 volts= 1.5 amps
1.5 amps x 8 recepts = 12 amps max on a 15 amp circuit. This what I am getting at along with man..
Even if outside receptacles cant be counted like 480 said, you still have to account for other recepts on the same circuit.
The code does say max 10 recepts on a 15 amp breaker and 13 on a 20 amp in 220.4 but does not say how many GFCI's.
Next time you open a GFCI box, look to see how many "protected BY" stickers are in there. P & S has 7 stickers. They put the quantity in there for a reason, 1 gfci receptacle and 7 non-gfci receptacles stickers...adding up to 8 receptacles on a gfci.
Why would someone want 40 recepts on a GFCI anyway.
Health care facilities are considered exceptions in 220 and 517 of the code gfci are not always used. Read carefully and save yourself money.
I have really enjoyed this discussion on GFCI's. I like to hear others input and hope others are as open minded as I am.
this is how its done...its by the square foot, theres a minimum amount of general branch circuitsFor resi, the allowance for general-purpose branch circuit receptacle loads has already been made through the general lighting load calcs done for the service and feeder calcs.
so, if you had a customer in a home that wanted a new receptacle added in an upstairs bedroom, and the panel is in the basement, and the existing circuit has let's say 10 receptacles and a couple of lights on it but nothing much being plugged into these outlets, are you going to add a new circuit for this? If so then great as long as you have no problem selling this to the homeowner, but I would never even try to do this. I would simply tap off of the existing, as I can sleep knowing that I did the job correctly and didn't overkill it and rip off the HO.The code allows you to load a circuit to 80% of its overcurrent rating and each receptical is counted as 180 Watts' so 15A X 120V = 1800 Watts/.8= 1440 Watts=180= 8 recepticals
20A X 120V = 2400 Watts X .8 = 1920/180 =10.6
Remember these are the minimum requirements I have always use 75% instead of 80.