When the microwave is on a shelf instead of hung from the cabinet, is there room behind for the receptacle or do you still put it in the upper cabinet?
85" to the center of the receptacle if it's a cabinet mount. If it's a shelf mount, hang the wire out wall and tell the cabinet guy to bring it out in the right spot. Install a 4x4 with a industrial raised cover and you're done.
85" is too high you could end up halfway in the cabinet. 76" to center is usually about where you want to be. Although that is not what op was asking. Usually on a shelf mount there would be room behind the microwave.
You are crazy. 32" cabinet on a 4" toe kick with 18" in between and an 18" microwave and a cabinet above .....you better talk to somebody who just started wiring houses. I'm not her.
I'd never do a 4x4 with an ind cover inside a cabinet you'd see easily, or behind an appliance. You may very well need that 2-3" of space.
Whether it's an OTR or shelf unit I leave a whip and cut it right into the back of the cabinet after.
I'd never do a 4x4 with an ind cover inside a cabinet you'd see easily, or behind an appliance. You may very well need that 2-3" of space.
Whether it's an OTR or shelf unit I leave a whip and cut it right into the back of the cabinet after.
I have always seen this done with a regular old box mounted to the stud, then the drywall goes on and when the cabinet guy arrives he will cut out the back of the cabinet for the receptacle. Then we would put a box extension, receptacle and coverplate. Leaving a whip and sticking a surface mount box in would be too visible and not allow the microwave to be pushed all the way back.
For OTRs we would do the same thing but inside the cabinet above the microwave and run a dedicated 15A circuit for it, or the occasional surface-mount utility box inside the cabinet.
How can you set a height like 85" without knowing the cabinet size? Sure that would work for 42" wall cabinets but lots of kitchens get 30" wall cabinets which puts the top of the cabinet lineup at 84" AFF, 85" would put you half out the cabinet. 76-78" to center puts you inside of any cabinet whether it is a 3012, 3015,3018 or 3024 you're going to be in it.
For a shelf mount a whip or just put in a flush box if you know where the mfg specs it. For a true built in with a trim kit we leave a whip and do a surface mount if room, and there's always room.
Those are the rules we play by. If there's a device box or JB behind a cabinet, it gets cut out by the cabinet guy. We only jigsaw cabinets for island and peninsula receptacles.
The only time we have surface mounted microwave receptacles is on rental properties where the owner doesn't care about esthetics.
Sorry, quoted the wrong guy but you get the idea...
Find your location. Use an adjustable single gang box. Bring it out more than necessary so the drywallers and cabinet installers have little choice but to cut out for it. Then if needed, install a recessed clock receptacle.
You can also put long #6 screws in the device holes to remind them. That's a trick I learned on this site. Also works great for the tile guys who like to cover up the device holes.
I'll have to try that one and the screws.. I carry a rotozip and a Fein tool to cut in if I have to. Rarely do I leave a surface mount box. Lower end I agree. I like the blue adjustable boxes though last time they got foamed in. I carry a box of BE1 sleeves and long 6-32's too.
Nice. The thin layer of plaster over the putty doesn't harden? Or is the putty thick enough and deep enough that the plaster doesn't affect it?
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