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Discussion Starter #21
Okay thanks.

The deck is a L-800 Haver & Boker deck. 16’ x 7’. I can't post links but you can go to their website and pull up their L-Class decks. The one we have is the same series but a different set up. The drive portion of the picture is identical.

Let me know if you have any more thoughts.
 

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Chief Flunky
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I have worked in mining over twenty years. Some screens have off screen motors, some on screen. I’ve even relocated done both ways and it didn’t make much difference. Off screen you just get belt problems instead.

First off do NOT use flex to the peckerhead. Use SOOW. The wiring in the flex chafes where the SO is all one piece and meant to flex (cord). It will last much longer. It needs to enter the peckerhead with a cord connector. The rubber grommet protects the cord from chafing. Depending on how it hangs a strain relief might be needed too. Rig the cord so it doesn’t rub against anything. Use hydraulic hose clamps and spiral wrap if you must. Terminate to an LB with a cord connector and splice inside so you can change the cord every few years. If vibration doesn’t get it, sunlight will eat it up.

Ok so throw away wire nuts and mechanical lugs. Those are all a recipe for failure. Including Polaris plugs. You need crimped or bolted connections for everything. Preferably ring lugs not forks if it’s small enough for Stakons.

In the peckerhead vibration motors with the IEC terminal strips come with two pieces of foam rubber. You put the wiring between them so that it protects iron either side. You have to squeeze it down with the peckerhead cover as you tighten the bolts. This keeps it from chafing.

Without the foam rubber you need to take every step possible to turn the wiring into a solid mass that moves with the screen. So first once you finish taping use tie wraps and/or tape to tape them all together. No wire nuts here. The fact that every wire nit brand says no vibration should give you a hint. I always use crimp lugs and bolt but I suppose lever nuts might be OK. Haven’t tried them. I’ve seen duct seal used. I’ve seen the box lined with Scotchfill. If you get the old non-dissolving kind I’ve see. A guy pack the peckerhead full of packing peanuts. But blocks of foam rubber by far do the best job and aren’t messy to remove later. Whatever you do the whole key is that just centering the wire isn’t enough. It needs to be secured. Also do not be cheap with the tape! I’ve been known to make giant tape balls if I have to. After vinyl use the whole roll of 130C. On bigger motors use a roll per splice. Or use Scotchfill because it goes much faster.’. The first layer should be back wrapped 88. At least two layers but more anywhere it might chafe. Then 130C at least two layers but here go crazy. It should be twice as thick as the original wiring if not more. Then go crazy on more 88. This is your abrasion proofing. At least two wraps but 4 or more won’t hurt. Then wrap them all together with more 88 and/or tue wraps. Then secure that with foam, duct seal, Scotchfill, whatever so it can’t go anywhere.

88 is stronger and stretches more than 33+. It holds up better against vibration. I’ve stopped using 33+.

It can be done and will outlast the motor. But only if you secure it so it is not loose in the box.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I will give it a try. Thank you all who contributed! I'll let you know how it goes!
 

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Look up super trex SOOW cord. I have never worn that stuff out $$$$$$$
 

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We have a big vibrating screen here at the sawmill and had some issues with this a few months ago. Being old school I always used Burndy's or split bolts to terminate motors but found in this case the lighter the weight in the pecker head connections the less they wanted to slam around. Using SO cord and a rated strain relief I terminated the wires with inline barrel crimps rated for 480v and wire tied them up good and tight. I used some foam on the back side and front side to insulate the connections from chaffing on the pecker head. All in all, just make sure the connections cant move and it should reduce any rubbing or chaffing. Hope this helps.
 

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installing a thick rubber grommet in the hole between the pecker-head and motor housing can help but with a motor being subject to a lot of vibration you have to immobilize the wires as well so they don't move.
This can be accomplished in a few ways from foam to oakum, My favorite was using thin Teflon tubing (often called spaghetti tube) to pack the pecker-head! it was heat resistant and easy to remove
 
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