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felonious smile.
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Discussion Starter #81
Your name came to mind because I have no doubt you're an authority on this, and there is no way that method saves time. Not a slight chance.
It's all about seeing the whole picture peter, kind of like when I get in my truck and leave my home, I already know the quickest direct entire route I will be taking from start to finish.
 

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Senior Moment
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I don't touch residentual so my question is how much time is saved in a eight hour day with one method verses another?
 

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Bababoee
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I think its more important that you have enough circuits and such... It looks fine to me.. who cares what others think... If you like doing it that way than its fine..I get your point on the pre looping. When you do the finish you dont need to carry around extra tools...
FWIW i have outlets in my house that are fed in and out of the device and no fires yet... along with the scores of other 100 year old plus homes i work in that have outlets that are still wired that way..
Over engineering something does'nt necassarily make it better.... Guys love to do that here.. I call it OCD.
 

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felonious smile.
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Discussion Starter #84
It's like wiring walls vs rooms. I personally find it easier and faster to wire by walls having more than 1 circuit passing thru rooms
 

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looks good. One guy solo 2.5 days will make money so do the receptacles however you like. I like the arlington recessed outside boxes too. Thanks for having the "eggs" to post work.:thumbup:
 

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felonious smile.
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Discussion Starter #86
looks good. One guy solo 2.5 days will make money so do the receptacles however you like. I like the arlington recessed outside boxes too. Thanks for having the "eggs" to post work.:thumbup:
I don't see how anyone can say my method takes too long, for me it netted $3.5 k labor for 2.5 days of labor. Material only ran 2k.
 

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Vintage Sounds said:
In that situation I probably would have run 14/3 to the fridge then from there 14/2 over to the microwave. Another 14/3 to a box under the sink or behind the dishwasher location to give both the DW and wine cooler their own circuits. Code here says dining area receptacles must have a dedicated circuit which can be used to power ignition/controls for a gas stove so there would be a 14/2 for that. Then two 12/2s for countertops.

So overall, five 15A and two 20A. Is that wasteful?
14 for dining room?
 

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felonious smile.
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Discussion Starter #89
I think its more important that you have enough circuits and such... It looks fine to me.. who cares what others think... If you like doing it that way than its fine..I get your point on the pre looping. When you do the finish you dont need to carry around extra tools...
FWIW i have outlets in my house that are fed in and out of the device and no fires yet... along with the scores of other 100 year old plus homes i work in that have outlets that are still wired that way..
Over engineering something does'nt necassarily make it better.... Guys love to do that here.. I call it OCD.
total tally is 9 15amp circuits, 5 20 amp circuits. 2 floors, 3 bdrms, LR/DR/Kit/ 2 baths/utility/garage. I'm going back to wire CAC after they finish it, might just put both A/Hs on one 2 pole 20 .
 

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The work looks fine to me. The only issue I have is where the NM comes through the floor sleeved in LFNMC. I realize that the sleeve is temporary and to protect the NM during construction, but I have always believed any time NM comes out anywhere that isn't in a wall cavity it should meet 334.15 (B).
 

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NJ-IEC
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total tally is 9 15amp circuits, 5 20 amp circuits. 2 floors, 3 bdrms, LR/DR/Kit/ 2 baths/utility/garage. I'm going back to wire CAC after they finish it, might just put both A/Hs on one 2 pole 20 .
That's a really good idea. You'll save something like less than $15 bucks by bootlegging it and causing a potential overloading condition in the brand new air conditioning system.

 

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14 for dining room?
Your code might require that, ours doesn't. Except for countertops and the occasional heating circuit there is almost zero #12 in most Canadian houses. I find it interesting though, what would anyone be using in a dining room that would require a 20 A circuit?
 

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Your code might require that, ours doesn't. Except for countertops and the occasional heating circuit there is almost zero #12 in most Canadian houses. I find it interesting though, what would anyone be using in a dining room that would require a 20 A circuit?
In most modern dining rooms, absolutely nothing. Aren't you allowed to use #14 for countertop circuits, too?
 

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In most modern dining rooms, absolutely nothing. Aren't you allowed to use #14 for countertop circuits, too?
Yes but it has to be 14/3 so that the receptacle can be split. You can still only have two receptacles per 2-pole 15A circuit for kitchens. 20A countertop circuits were not allowed until the 2002 CEC. I still think the split is better but I would only use it if there was no sink on the counter in question since you would have to use a 2-pole GFCI breaker instead of a $15 GFCI recep.
 

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felonious smile.
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Discussion Starter #95
That's a really good idea. You'll save something like less than $15 bucks by bootlegging it and causing a potential overloading condition in the brand new air conditioning system.

Please Explain......If I am looking at two 240 volt blowers that draw about 7 amps on the other side of home. How is using #12 wire and fusing it at 20 amps improper. And saving about $60 by the time copper wire and breaker come into play. Then there is labor to run a second wire.
 

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felonious smile.
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Discussion Starter #96
The work looks fine to me. The only issue I have is where the NM comes through the floor sleeved in LFNMC. I realize that the sleeve is temporary and to protect the NM during construction, but I have always believed any time NM comes out anywhere that isn't in a wall cavity it should meet 334.15 (B).
I usually leave that sleeve in to pass right into the cabinets.
 

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It's like wiring walls vs rooms. I personally find it easier and faster to wire by walls having more than 1 circuit passing thru rooms
Reminded of wiring method oldtimer showed me years ago in tract house job. He would take 4 or 5 pull chain lights and spot'em in basement. Each was 15 amp/cir and that was our start or end point for our lighting and 15 amp loads (bedroom/halls/ect). Sweet trick and I have used it to this day and we wired thru wall and he would yell at me "keep it ta 7 or 8 devices kid". It always worked out and was simple rope method.
 

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felonious smile.
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Discussion Starter #98
Reminded of wiring method oldtimer showed me years ago in tract house job. He would take 4 or 5 pull chain lights and spot'em in basement. Each was 15 amp/cir and that was our start or end point for our lighting and 15 amp loads (bedroom/halls/ect). Sweet trick and I have used it to this day and we wired thru wall and he would yell at me "keep it ta 7 or 8 devices kid". It always worked out and was simple rope method.
Yeah, I've done that. it's a nice trick and eliminates a basement light circuit. It only becomes a problem for the next guy if they finish the basement.
 

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Reminded of wiring method oldtimer showed me years ago in tract house job. He would take 4 or 5 pull chain lights and spot'em in basement. Each was 15 amp/cir and that was our start or end point for our lighting and 15 amp loads (bedroom/halls/ect). Sweet trick and I have used it to this day and we wired thru wall and he would yell at me "keep it ta 7 or 8 devices kid". It always worked out and was simple rope method.
That was a trick used in most of the post war housing stock I encounter here, but especially common in the 50's and 60's houses.

Nowadays, I consider basement lights on pullchains to be hack work.
 

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Ambassador of Amps
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That was a trick used in most of the post war housing stock I encounter here, but especially common in the 50's and 60's houses.

Nowadays, I consider basement lights on pullchains to be hack work.
whats a basement? :thumbup::laughing:
 
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