[Mshow1323]

Use 1/8" thicker than the wall board. The 8/32 screws will hold the drywall off the studs by a fraction, plus unless you're super perfect, when you nail the box on it's almost always pushed past the face of the stud.

Edit. This goes for wood, steal studs use the same size.

 

[ponyboy]

Use 1/8" thicker than the wall board. The 8/32 screws will hold the drywall off the studs by a fraction, plus unless you're super perfect, when you nail the box on it's almost always pushed past the face of the stud.

Edit. This goes for wood, steal studs use the same size.

I was referring to steel studs actually. Getting the same size never seems to turn out right


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[markbrady]

with steel go a size up

 

[Southeast Power]

The raise is the overall measurement from the back of the ring to the face of the ring. Therefore, the OP is correct, 5/8 raised rings are perfect for 1/2" drywall and 3/4" raised rings are perfect for 5/8" drywall.
It's a novice error to use 1/2" raised rings on 1/2" drywall.

 

[cabletie]

A lot of guys go up one size with their mud rings. I always keep it the same. Either way has never been an issue with me.

 

[macmikeman]

The worst thing using steel rings is if it ends up sticking out of the drywall. Make sure not to mistake a 3/4 instead of where you were going to put a 5/8'' in for 1/2'' drywall. You can't grind off the metal ones.

 

[Cow]

I go up an 1/8" always, it doesn't matter if it's steel or wood studs. I've never had an issue. When I used to use the same size mud ring as sheetrock, they always seemed to be recessed in the wall a 1/4". Always hated that!

Some of the other guys in our shop still do it that way because they're scared the ring will stick out of the wall. It's not an issue though, so go for it Pony!

 

[Southeast Power]

I ran into a friend of mine in a supply house a few months ago. He had all of his MC, boxes and 1/2" mud rings. He's kind of a rope guy so, I tried to be nice and help him out.
I asked him what kind of job he was working on that was using 3/8" drywall.
Nope, it was 1/2" drywall he said. I asked him why he bought the wrong mud rings and mentioned that they would be too shallow.
He just couldn't admit he was wrong.
I saw him a week later and asked him how the rings worked out...
I don't think he will do it again.

 

[chicken steve]

I don't understand where you guys are going on this.....

A box set back is easy to deal with. In fact we're allowed to do so via 314.20, and followed up by 406.5

314.20 In Wall or Ceiling. In walls or ceilings with a
surface of concrete, tile, gypsum, plaster, or other noncom-
bustible material, boxes employing a flush-type cover or
faceplate shall be installed so that the front of the box,
plaster ring, extension ring, or listed extender will not be
set back of the finished surface more than 6 mm (1/4 in.).
In walls and ceilings constructed of wood or other com-
bustible surface material, boxes, plaster rings, extension
rings, or listed extenders shall be flush with the finished
surface or project therefrom.

4 sq's w/side straps are the usual 'box of choice' wood or steel frame

The 1/4" is purposely configured because the device install will suck the ring forward sandwiching less than the allowed 1/4"

The other way round is not so good ........jmho

~CS~

 

[99cents]

I have never oversized a plaster ring and never will. Like the chicken dude says, drywall is non-combustible. What is there to regret if the ring is slightly recessed? Wiring devices don't come with 1/4" screws.

 

[sbrn33]

I use the same size as the drywall going on. There is absolutely nothing worse than a plaster ring that sticks out of the wall. I am OK with someone that wants to up size theirs but there is really no reason to.

 

[Going_Commando]

I have never oversized a plaster ring and never will. Like the chicken dude says, drywall is non-combustible. What is there to regret if the ring is slightly recessed? Wiring devices don't come with 1/4" screws.

Ditto. I'd just as soon have it recess a bit.

 

[te12co2w]

I prefer to go one size up. It is so nice to cinch a device up to a flush ring.

 

[Cow]

For those that are against it, have you tried it yet?

What finally pushed me to try it was every single device on every single job that we had used standard depth rings on, they were all at least an 1/8" recessed, but more commonly a solid 1/4" deep in the wall. I've never seen a flush ring when it's the same depth as the rock. Have any of you?

To answer the other guys question about why you'd want to? Well, where I'm at the drywallers aren't so good about cutting nice tight holes to the rings and I don't care for my devices sucking back inside the wall. I've used Caddy device retainer rings to shim them out before but I don't want to have to shim my devices when it's just as simple to buy taller rings.

Like Teco said, tightening up a device to a flush ring is one of the simple things that makes my day go better.

 

[99cents]

I thought our drywallers were bad. You're saying that they're cutting holes so big that the ears on the devices don't touch drywall?

 

[wildleg]

I've done it both ways but going up 1/8 works a lot better.

 

[eddy current]

That ain't a mud ring, this is a mud ring!

 

[macmikeman]

That ain't a mud ring, this is a mud ring!

Actually that is a switch ring, and a mud ring is the round one for fixtures.

 

[cabletie]

When they are square I call them tile rings. They work better for block.