[zoltan]

Seems like a pain to center it? Also more dust mess than a hole saw and "dust bowl"?

Amazon.com

 

[MotoGP1199]

Hole saw in reverse with a dust bowl works just fine. Centering that would suck

 

[MHElectric]

Have any of you guys tried them before? Can you get a dust bowl around them?

 

[A Little Short]

You would almost have to use the template and mark the ceiling in order to center that thing.

 

[Steetson]

Have any of you guys tried them before? Can you get a dust bowl around them?

Judging by photos and amazon specifications it should fit. Seems like Ruck A tiers have their own dust bowl, so I'd probably go with that one for it.

 

[Mellow]

IDK, but to me, making a clean round hole with no fuss- means using a hole saw. I wouldn't think of using an oscillating tool to make a perfect circle, especially when a hole saw works perfectly. Seems gimmicky to me, but I haven't tried it.

 

[MotoGP1199]

IDK, but to me, making a clean round hole with no fuss- means using a hole saw. I wouldn't think of using an oscillating tool to make a perfect circle, especially when a hole saw works perfectly. Seems gimmicky to me, but I haven't tried it.

I agree for drywall or plaster I would use a round hole saw. They also make the square version of the above for single and maybe double gang old work boxes. That I can see a use for if you have to do 100's of them. However I can make those small holes with a standard drywall saw in 1 minute so I could never justify the money. Not sure how it would work in plaster.

 

[Mellow]

I agree for drywall or plaster I would use a round hole saw. They also make the square version of the above for single and maybe double gang old work boxes. That I can see a use for if you have to do 100's of them. However I can make those small holes with a standard drywall saw in 1 minute so I could never justify the money. Not sure how it would work in plaster.

Well, any material, really. What could make a better circle than a drill? It spins in the shape of a circle. An oscillating tool goes back and forth.... I'm confused at who this product is aimed at. The guy who has an oscillating tool, but not a drill?

Even with the attachment for the old work boxes... I can't see the application. The guy who's doing 100's of them is in another trade, using a rotozip, trying to nick my wires.

 

[Awg-Dawg]

Seems like it would be messier and leave a misshapen hole. But, I found a video where it actually seems like it would work better, no walking across the drywall or a drill twisting in your hand.

 

[MotoGP1199]

Seems like it would be messier and leave a misshapen hole. But, I found a video where it actually seems like it would work better, no walking across the drywall or a drill twisting in your hand.

If you use a regular tooth hole saw in Reverse (on drywall) and pre drill the pilot hole you will have zero jumping or drill twisting issues. Plus you have the benefit of only having to find center. Goes through like butter and saw will last 100's of holes

 

[power]

Hole saw in reverse

We don't actually do residential, and I guess this is going to show

But, why is the hole saw reversed? Do you still use the ¼" center arbor drill?

 

[MotoGP1199]

We don't actually do residential, and I guess this is going to show

But, why is the hole saw reversed? Do you still use the ¼" center arbor drill?

I usually have a 1/4" drill bit by itself and predrill the pilot hole. The teeth on a hole saw are very aggressive and sharp going in one direction, that is the normal direction. On a Large diameter hole into a soft material those aggressive teeth will grab and want to jump. When you go in reverse the angle of the teeth are like ramps. In a soft material like dry wall it will cut through like butter in a couple s econds.it won't grab and jump.

 

[power]

The teeth on a hole saw are very aggressive and sharp going in one direction, that is the normal direction. On a Large diameter hole into a soft material those aggressive teeth will grab and want to jump.

Oh, I see.....I know your bang on right!

Years ago, on a new construction building (a Costco) we would drill 4" diameter holes in the Q-deck from the top-down. Then you could install your ½" or ¾" conduit entire lengths of the building by just laying it into the ribs (east/west or north/south only). Roofers would install their roofing materials thereafter on top. It worked great!

Anyways, I was using these ½" Milwaukee Magnum HoleShooters (corded 120v) then, and those darn things can easily break your wrists!