[GatewaySparky]

So i did a flush mount panel swap today and everything was going well until I put the new panel up to the wall. Crap, the cavity is too narrow by 3/8 of an inch or so. The Sawzall is missing. Does a crappy job anyway.

I had to resort to a 1 1/2" spade bit up one side of the cavity. Looked like the moon when I was done. But the swap turned out great, and the boss is happy.

Do any of you have an efficient method for widening such a space? I was thinking about a planer. Any ideas other than tearing out the wall?

 

[T&K]

Cordless skill saw, and cordless multi-tool.

 

[chewy]

Japanese pullsaw and a a skilly.

 

[Hmacanada]

Cordless skill saw, and cordless multi-tool.

I agree with T&K

 

[jza]

Sawzall, chisel, hammer, whatever it takes.

 

[Southeast Power]

I've run into that a few times. I don't remember what I did to remedy the situation but it all worked out just fine.
I think I just cut out the entire stud and screwed it to the side of the can or something like that. Very incidental to the whole job.

 

[Shockdoc]

The sawzall aimed on 45° angles away from panel outline work for me every time.

 

[99cents]

It's only wood. Butcher it.

 

[jza]

If you cut it just right you don't need to use any fasteners.

 

[wildleg]

The sawzall aimed on 23° angles away from panel outline work for me every time.

fixed it for ya

 

[99cents]

If you cut it just right you don't need to use any fasteners.

...and save yourself 4 cents in materials and ninety seconds of your time.

 

[Southeast Power]

...and save yourself 4 cents in materials and ninety seconds of your time.

I think the old panel was 14" wide, made for 2" wide 2x4s, new ones are 14-1/2" made to fit between studs that are 1-1/2".
I plan for it on older houses. Sometimes they just scab a piece on next to the panel to hold it in place. I like finding those. Otherwise, I cut out the whole stud and move it over enough to fit the new one in place and screw it to the drywall or whatever the finish is.

 

[dspiffy]

I've used a dremel.

 

[220/221]

Using the spade/paddle bit as a router is fine. I've done it a hundred times.

It's quick, easy and looks great when the panel is installed and covered up.

 

[Rollie73]

While I don't do much resi any more....I have run into this once or twice before. I always liked using a flat bottomed forstener bit.

I usually used my 3.5" forstener and sank it into the 2"x4" as many times as necessary.

 

[backstay]

I use a large chisel, something like 1-1/2". Score the top and bottom of the stud and remove material until the box fits.

 

[Jonl]

I have used a Milwaukee 18v Hackzall.

 

[gnuuser]

or one of these beaver
actually i have a dual saw as shown below
http://www.lowes.com/pd_150784-26090-CS650_0__?productId=3739175