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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All

I am installing a 100 amp sub panel in a garage. The feed is coming from the 200 amp main in the house. I will be burying teck cable. The teck cable will come out of the ground at the garage and go straight into the back of the panel.

My issue is what is the proper way to go through the wall. I do not want to go through the wall with the teck but rather go through a conduit... teck doesn't look great going through a wall. Also where the teck comes out beside the garage it would be exposed to mechanical damage ie. lawnmower/trimmer.

Does the armour have to be bonded at both ends.
and what provisions should be made for building or ground movement.

This is in Manitoba, Canada so CEC rules apply.
 

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Hey....do you even know how to read the CEC stuff ?......if you don't you shouldn't be playing around....anyway ....start with bonding bushes at either end and zig-zag the teck as it lays down the trench to start with....look at the "book" and get the facts.! Please !
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Yes I do know how to read the code book and I hold a valid power electricians license. How ever these types of installs are new to me and am looking for the best way to do it.

I have talked to a hand full of construction electricians and have got different answers from all of them.

I know the code book says that armoured cable must be bonded at both ends but I have heard from local people that 1 side is enough.

The only way I can think of doing it that satisfies the code is to run the teck into a JB on the side of the building with the proper connector and ground bushing at each end and either sleeve the cable with schedule 80 pvc or a metal cover for mechanical protection.

Just looking for some insight from the broader population
 

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Here's how I'd do it:
- sleeve the teck cable from about 1' in the ground to a height you'll have to determine from the rest of my list based on your scenario. Strap this sleeve as needed to stop it from moving.
- come out of the bottom of the panel with a close nipple and an LB. You can come out of the back if you are able to.
- nipple through the wall to another LB outside. Don't forget to seal inside this LB with insulation or duct seal.
- this part is up to you, but I'd run a rigid conduit stub (12" ish) down to a coupling and your connector. If you double strap the stub it won't move side to side and strain your connector. If not, then put the connector straight into the LB outside.
- leave 12" below your connector and strap the cable to the structure.
- leave about 6"-10" below this strap to the top of your sleeve.

Hope that helps...
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Glen1971

Thanks
that is basically how I though I was gonna do it.

I'm assuming all the conduit used is metal so the armour bonding provisions are met
 

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Has the concrete been poured yet? If not, put in a PVC 90* under / through the footing and come up inside the wall and connect directly to the panel. If you cannot go into the bottom / top of panel, use a 90* teck connector and go into the back as you planned, but inside the wall.

Cheers

John
 

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teck armor only needs to be bonded at one end (so you can make a teck to pvc transition at one end) , but teck ground wire must be connected at both ends
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I have heard from many people that the armour only hads to be bonded on one side but rule 12-608 of the 2015 CEC seems to say otherwise

I am misunderstanding what is meant by this rule

Rule 12-608"*Armoured cable shall be run in a manner such that the mechanical and electrical continuity of the armour is maintained throughout the run, and the armour of cables shall be mechanically and electrically secured to all equipment to which it is attached"
 

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I have heard from many people that the armour only hads to be bonded on one side but rule 12-608 of the 2015 CEC seems to say otherwise

I am misunderstanding what is meant by this rule

Rule 12-608"*Armoured cable shall be run in a manner such that the mechanical and electrical continuity of the armour is maintained throughout the run, and the armour of cables shall be mechanically and electrically secured to all equipment to which it is attached"
As long as the cable armor stays intact, bonding only one end satisfies the rule you posted. It says electrical continuity must be maintained, which it is if the armor is intact. The second part about mechanically secured is satisfied with a female adapter.
 

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Old Grumpy Bastard
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As long as the cable armor stays intact, bonding only one end satisfies the rule you posted. It says electrical continuity must be maintained, which it is if the armor is intact. The second part about mechanically secured is satisfied with a female adapter.
:thumbsup:

Very much so!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The part that I am unsure of is in the rule it states that the armour shall be electrically secured to all equipment not just mechanically.
 

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Old Grumpy Bastard
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The part that I am unsure of is in the rule it states that the armour shall be electrically secured to all equipment not just mechanically.
Metallic connectors should insure that.
 

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I just did this very thing. Out of panel with threaded steel LB to rigid steel conduit to Coupling to teck conn. That said doing it this way I don't like how little tolerance there is to get the coupling tight to the teck conn.
 

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In the past we have used the pvc purely as a sleeve to clean up the look outside. Oversize the lb and drob a stub a foot below grade. Come through the wall a foot or 2 below the panel. Don't run any conduit inside the wall. Just an inch or 2 to clear the siding and sheathing. Pull the teck through the lb and bend it upwards within the wall. Come in the bottom of the panel with a dry type flex connector. If your cable terminates in a dry location you shouldnt need a real expensive teck connector.
 

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Rezy jman
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In the past we have used the pvc purely as a sleeve to clean up the look outside. Oversize the lb and drob a stub a foot below grade. Come through the wall a foot or 2 below the panel. Don't run any conduit inside the wall. Just an inch or 2 to clear the siding and sheathing. Pull the teck through the lb and bend it upwards within the wall. Come in the bottom of the panel with a dry type flex connector. If your cable terminates in a dry location you shouldnt need a real expensive teck connector.
This is how I've done it. Getting the teck through the LB can be a bitch but having the teck remaining intact until you terminate in the panel avoids outside connections
 
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