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I am fairly satisfied with my green pocket voltage detector, but I was hoping that anyone out there would have one that:
1. Can detect low volts (24 such as A/C controls) as well as up to 600V.
2. Be able to fit inside the individual sockets/prongs of the new tamper resistant outlets.
3. Still be small enough to fit inside your shirt pocket.
4. Not cost an arm, leg and 2nd arm.

Also, how long do your voltage detectors last? I am probably using mine just as much as the average electrician, I change my batteries everytime we shift our clocks and I test it every morning before I leave for work. They don't seem to last much longer than 1 year. Is this the same life expectancy that you are seeing with your detector?

Thanks.
 

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I am fairly satisfied with my green pocket voltage detector, but I was hoping that anyone out there would have one that:
1. Can detect low volts (24 such as A/C controls) as well as up to 600V.
2. Be able to fit inside the individual sockets/prongs of the new tamper resistant outlets.
3. Still be small enough to fit inside your shirt pocket.
4. Not cost an arm, leg and 2nd arm.
Also, how long do your voltage detectors last? I am probably using mine just as much as the average electrician, I change my batteries everytime we shift our clocks and I test it every morning before I leave for work. They don't seem to last much longer than 1 year. Is this the same life expectancy that you are seeing with your detector?
Thanks.
Answering your question: until his battery poops out. Just do not bet your life on them . . .

Work'in For That Free Tee . . .
 

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I never saw one that goes from 24v to more than 90v, but Fluke does have that low voltage type. Not sure why you would use one for low voltage, usually if I using a ticker it's just to see if there's power on before I stick my fingers in. I never use it to troubleshoot. My batteries last way more than a year.
 

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I use the Fluke Volt Alert: http://us.fluke.com/usen/products/Fluke+1ACII+VoltAlert.htm?catalog_name=FlukeUnitedStates&Category=ELT(FlukeProducts) After you go to that link click on the "Models, Options & Accessories" button on the left and it will show you what they offer. They have a low voltage model from 20-90V.

If you're in the use make sure you get the English version. That one has a flat tip that fits into receptacle sockets and the other have a round tip that won't because it's designed for other countries sockets.

I've got the Greenlee and the Fluke models. I like the Fluke way better. With the Fluke you can more accurately zone in on exactly which wire is the hot wire, it won't light up and beep until you're right on it. With different brands you can just be in the proximity and it'll go crazy.

You can get them a few bucks cheaper on the fleabay.
 

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I also use the Fluke VoltAlert. I have two models, one for 20 to 90VAC and one for 90 to 1000VAC. They cost about $27.00 each and I think they were worth every penny. I’ve had them at least a couple of years now and they have proven to be very durable. I have a Greenlee too, but the insides always rattle like it’s going to fall apart any minute so I don’t really trust it.
I haven’t seen any single non-contact voltage detector that covers the entire voltage range yet. It would be nice if Fluke would develop one.
I know that Extech makes one senses from 5 to 250VAC, but that wouldn’t be of any use for 277/480V circuits.

The only solution I could come up with for voltage testing on Tamper Resistant receptacles is using a two-prong SPT cord cap. I insert the cord cap in the receptacle then stick the voltage detector’s probe in the hole for the SPT cord. You could probably use any brand of cord cap, but I found that the best cord cap for this purpose was the “Academy” brand. It is a little larger and easier to grab, plus the hole for the cord is directly behind the prong.






 

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The only solution I could come up with for voltage testing on Tamper Resistant receptacles is using a two-prong SPT cord cap. I insert the cord cap in the receptacle then stick the voltage detector’s probe in the hole for the SPT cord. You could probably use any brand of cord cap, but I found that the best cord cap for this purpose was the “Academy” brand. It is a little larger and easier to grab, plus the hole for the cord is directly behind the prong.
Why not just use one of these?
 

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I've used most of them, most of them have failed me(even hooked up a 277 exit light hot, cause my ticker failed) and the fluke is by far the best and I will never use anything else unless they go out of business
 

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What about the greenlee GT-11
http://www.mygreenlee.com/Products/...=showGreenleeProductTemplate&upc_number=09022

it says 50-1000volts.


The GT-15
http://www.mygreenlee.com/Products/...=showGreenleeProductTemplate&upc_number=09023
is 12-90 volts.

I carry the GT-10 on me all the time, a quick way to make sure the batteries are still good is to just run it down your arm or whatever first to make sure it works. I got into the habbit of turning it on before I take it out of my bib pocket so it goes off so I know the batteries are still good before I actually use it.


I know this is an old post, but hope it helps.
 

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Seldom use one but when I do it is a Tic Tracer, offers HV testing option.
 

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I use an AMPROBE VP-440, it has a range of 50-1000 VAC and has been pretty reliable/durable. I work in a cement plant so the ones that make noise get full of dust quickly.

I never troubleshoot with it, test it on a known live circuit before EVERY use, and if it is a circuit over 120 I am pulling my Fluke 787 out to double check it anyway...but it is a good way to make a "quick check" on a circuit.
 

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I use an AMPROBE VP-440, it has a range of 50-1000 VAC and has been pretty reliable/durable. I work in a cement plant so the ones that make noise get full of dust quickly.

I never troubleshoot with it, test it on a known live circuit before EVERY use, and if it is a circuit over 120 I am pulling my Fluke 787 out to double check it anyway...but it is a good way to make a "quick check" on a circuit.
That is my view on the subject as well, it isn't for troubleshooting, just for checking. Once you get used to it you can almost tell what voltage is present from the distance you can get a reading at.
 
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