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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a customer with a single phase 120/240V 20kW portable generator. I'm having a hard time figuring out how to connect it up. I was looking at a leviton 100A pin & sleeve inlet, but my inspector says that is a no go because it is certified to CSA C22.2 No. 182.1 and not CSA C22.2 No. 178.1.
All the inlets I've seen are generally 30A or 50A rated.
Anyone dealt with this before?

My inspector shared a Roam Technologies inlet panel as an approved example, but the price I got is $1650+shipping from Texas! That seems a bit much for just an inlet... plus iit would be single conductors wired back to the generator.
 

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Interesting. C22.2 only mentions for use only on branch circuits, but C22.2 is transfer switches.

I don't think the inlet is part of the transfer switch, but maybe he's looking for it to be suitable as a disconnect ??
Sorry, not much help, but interested to watch this thread.

Links for an overview of those specs for anyone interested ...
 
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What is the outlet type on the generator, does it meet the listing the AHJ is looking for?

Do a search on the listing he is asking for and find out what the listing is for. Then search for manufacturers of that type outlet/inlet.
 

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What kind of cable were you thinking of using for this? This has come up for me a few times for connecting a large portable generator for temporary power for remote rural panels. The farmers always balk at the price of using cam-lok stuff.
 

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I have seen this connection cause problems for a lot of people.
First is your genny a single use? OR is it used in several applications? One being portable power. I am referring to the bonded neutral issue with portable gensets.
A definite use machine is a lot easier to deal with. Personally I detest several cords, just something else to loose or damage. Works fine inside, outside rather not.
Contact the inspector and use the issue as a learning moment. You might learn something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What kind of cable were you thinking of using for this? This has come up for me a few times for connecting a large portable generator for temporary power for remote rural panels. The farmers always balk at the price of using cam-lok stuff.
Well I was thinking something like a #2/4C SOOW would have worked for the pin and sleeve connector. If I have to go to individual conductors with cam-loks, I'm not sure what I would use at this point.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Interesting. C22.2 only mentions for use only on branch circuits, but C22.2 is transfer switches.

I don't think the inlet is part of the transfer switch, but maybe he's looking for it to be suitable as a disconnect ??
Sorry, not much help, but interested to watch this thread.
I was looking at an inlet separate from the transfer switch. The pin and sleeve inlet is rated for disconnect under full load, so don't think that is the issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
What is the outlet type on the generator, does it meet the listing the AHJ is looking for?
I have seen this connection cause problems for a lot of people.
First is your genny a single use? OR is it used in several applications? One being portable power. I am referring to the bonded neutral issue with portable gensets.
A definite use machine is a lot easier to deal with. Personally I detest several cords, just something else to loose or damage. Works fine inside, outside rather not.
Contact the inspector and use the issue as a learning moment. You might learn something.
The generator is a used one my customer picked up recently. Trailer mounted with a couple of light poles. Made for construction sites I think, it has 3x 30A twist lock, and some general use 20A 120V receptacles. I was going to swap out the generator JB to a bigger size, put some lugs on the existing studs, and tap off of there for a cable to run to the building inlet. He is also hoping for a 50A 240V welder plug on the generator so he can pull it out to his cattle pens to fix fences if needed. He has 2 separate farm sites that he wants to be able to use this at with manual transfer switches if the power goes out. The neutral is bonded to the frame, but that will have to stay if he is moving it around.
 

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The generator is a used one my customer picked up recently. Trailer mounted with a couple of light poles. Made for construction sites I think, it has 3x 30A twist lock, and some general use 20A 120V receptacles. I was going to swap out the generator JB to a bigger size, put some lugs on the existing studs, and tap off of there for a cable to run to the building inlet. He is also hoping for a 50A 240V welder plug on the generator so he can pull it out to his cattle pens to fix fences if needed. He has 2 separate farm sites that he wants to be able to use this at with manual transfer switches if the power goes out. The neutral is bonded to the frame, but that will have to stay if he is moving it around.
Probably would go towards something like this: Generac Power Systems - HomeLink 30A Manual Transfer Switch w/ Aluminum PIB - 6854
If the generator doesn鈥檛 have a 50A outlet. I wouldn鈥檛 start going and messing around with how the generator is wired. Something bad happens and someone hurts them selves or the generator blows up your liable for that.
If he鈥檚 willing to spend the money. Do a panel for general plugs and lights. Than another one for more of your utilities or something. Making sure each panel doesn鈥檛 go over like 25Amps continues. Good luck hope this helps!! 馃榿
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Probably would go towards something like this: Generac Power Systems - HomeLink 30A Manual Transfer Switch w/ Aluminum PIB - 6854
If the generator doesn鈥檛 have a 50A outlet. I wouldn鈥檛 start going and messing around with how the generator is wired. Something bad happens and someone hurts them selves or the generator blows up your liable for that.
If he鈥檚 willing to spend the money. Do a panel for general plugs and lights. Than another one for more of your utilities or something. Making sure each panel doesn鈥檛 go over like 25Amps continues. Good luck hope this helps!! 馃榿
It's a nice thought, but not going to work in my situation. Its a cattle farm, so distribution goes all over the place. Main 200A panel feeds 100A to a different building, that then feeds to 2 other well houses that feed to waters. We can keep the well pumps, waterers, and well house heaters to around 60A. I have to be able to tie in the whole generator output to the main panel. And I don't think the inspector would like 3x 30A inlets paralleled! Main panel to furthest well house is over 1200', furthest waterer is 1600'.
 

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Have a look here: Starting @ 4:09 for a discussion on separately derived, non separately derived generator topic. Mike Holt's Grounding and Bonding Seminar - 08-25-2018

If the client has an issue with the cost of the cam-lock connection box, or two, he surely will with the required three pole transfer switches and cable assemblies, to pass an inspection, if he needs to keep the generator frame bonded (non separately derived).

What size is the generator your working with, and what are the existing service sizes?
 

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It's a nice thought, but not going to work in my situation. Its a cattle farm, so distribution goes all over the place. Main 200A panel feeds 100A to a different building, that then feeds to 2 other well houses that feed to waters. We can keep the well pumps, waterers, and well house heaters to around 60A. I have to be able to tie in the whole generator output to the main panel. And I don't think the inspector would like 3x 30A inlets paralleled! Main panel to furthest well house is over 1200', furthest waterer is 1600'.
I think jobs like this. If the customer isn鈥檛 willing to spend the money on the correct equipment. It鈥檚 probably best to walk away.
I鈥檓 assuming your like me where if it鈥檚 not done correctly than your probably not going to sleep at night 馃槀馃槀
In other words. I probably would be going around trying to figure out a work around or a cheaper way of doing something. Suggest to the customer that this is the approved product that has to be used...
Other option if he鈥檚 desperate to get a generator running for the whole property. Start from scratch. Get a 200Amp service transfer switch for a generator wether it鈥檚 Generac or another company and size a proper stand by generator.
He can probably sell the generator he has for a pretty good amount these days on Facebook or kijiji to pay for something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Have a look here: Starting @ 4:09 for a discussion on separately derived, non separately derived generator topic. Mike Holt's Grounding and Bonding Seminar - 08-25-2018

If the client has an issue with the cost of the cam-lock connection box, or two, he surely will with the required three pole transfer switches and cable assemblies, to pass an inspection, if he needs to keep the generator frame bonded (non separately derived).

What size is the generator your working with, and what are the existing service sizes?
20kW generator. Wants to tie it into 2 locations. 1st is a 200A service with 200A panel. 2nd site is a 200A service that lands in a 70A panel. So 1x 200A transfer switch, and 1x 100A transfer switch are needed. I found a used 200A one for $500.

If I only needed 1 box, then it is what it is price wise, but once you need the inlet, and the transfer switches, and new service disconnects, and OCPD for the inlet, at 2 locations, it adds up! Its a hard pill for the customer to swallow when you tell him his $5000 generator is going to cost $14000 to hook up....
 
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