[nmackintosh]

Anyone know a rule saying that you can't have a plug inside a closeable cupboard or cabinet? or if you do you have to have a door switch that will disconnect power when its shut? If you could let me know of the rule that would be great. Thanks.

 

[FrunkSlammer]

Oh yes, it's in there.

And I have never installed a door switch for any of the receptacles I've put in cupboards.

 

[FrunkSlammer]

26-710

(h) a receptacle shall not be placed in a cupboard, cabinet, or similar enclosure, except where the receptacle is

(i) an integral part of a factory-built enclosure;
(ii) provided for use with a specific type of appliance that is suitable for installation within the enclosure;
(iii) intended only for a microwave oven;
(iv) intended only for a cord-connected range hood; or
(v) intended only for a cord-connected combination microwave oven/range hood fan;​

(i) except for cord-connected dishwashers, in-line water heaters, garbage disposal units, and other similar appliances, receptacles installed in cupboards, cabinets, or similar enclosures in accordance with
Item (h)(ii) shall be de-energized unless the enclosure door is in the fully opened position;

 

[nmackintosh]

Thanks. Wondering if anyone has ever installed such a thing that controls the power to the plug inside the cabinet... If so what did you use?

 

[FrunkSlammer]

Try a RIB 02BDC by functional devices.com pair with a magnetic door switch like the alarm guys use

http://www.functionaldevices.com/building-automation/display.php?model=RIB02BDC

http://www.grisk.com/surface_mount/100.html

 

[daveEM]

Oh yes, it's in there.

And I have never installed a door switch for any of the receptacles I've put in cupboards.

Are you an Electrician?

^^ I've been wanting to say that since I first read it here. :laughing:

I'm sure you have followed code tho, so not required in your case.

 

[daveEM]

Thanks. Wondering if anyone has ever installed such a thing that controls the power to the plug inside the cabinet... If so what did you use?

I've used this a couple of times...
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/momentary-door-switch/905831

Only good for 3 amps tho. So a light or small draw appliance.

Here is a 10 amp one...
http://www.lowes.com/pd_233997-334-WD1664_0__?productId=3804559&AID=11259695&PID=1319015&SID=1384950361z650660z41073b0a18552z&cm_mmc=AFF_CJ-_-1319015-_-1189274-_-11259695

 

[FrunkSlammer]

Are you an Electrician?

Apparently! They gave me some fancy red star thinger that says I'm good to go.. personally, I would disagree! :laughing: I am an apprentice for life, learning stuff every day.

I've used this a couple of times...
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/momentary-door-switch/905831

HOME DEPOT!? ARE YOU AN ELECTRICIAN? lol

Seriously though… wouldn't the switch need to be rated to the receptacle size, either 15A or 20A?

 

[daveEM]

Seriously though… wouldn't the switch need to be rated to the receptacle size, either 15A or 20A?

You would think, but we usually stick 12 outlets on a circuit. I'm thinking an amp per device. I guess if one was energising a receptacle he should find a rated switch. A light bulb would be fine on 3 amp guy.

Or have the switch control a relay, which would control the receptacle.

 

[daveEM]

I am an apprentice for life, learning stuff every day.

Agree. There are so many guys on here smarter than me.

Had a customer the other day say "well you can't beat experience". He was talking about me and my time in the trade. I, being smart, never said anything.

Still you get stuck in a 10 year loop, you can get rusty. Back to learning. Especially if it's something you haven't done.

I look at some jobs now and don't take them. New stuff I've never done like PLC.