[LanceBass]

Is there a way to get into a recessed light when the drywall is up? I'm worried about something I wired...

 

[joe cool]

yes there is

 

[Jack Legg]

Is there a way to get into a recessed light when the drywall is up? I'm worried about something I wired...

yes, you get to the jbox from the inside

 

[stars13bars2]

yes the junction box on the fixture must remain accessible and on most fixtures there are three screws at the bottom of the can that will allow you to pull it down out of the hole for said access.

 

[HARRY304E]

Is there a way to get into a recessed light when the drywall is up? I'm worried about something I wired...

LanceBass;

Every splice you make up on the job MUST be ROCK SOLID, there are no mistakes.

Do it right 100% of the time, if you are told you are too slow it's because the faster guys are cutting corners hoping they do not get bagged.

 

[ponyboy]

Boy.....

 

[99cents]

yes the junction box on the fixture must remain accessible and on most fixtures there are three screws at the bottom of the can that will allow you to pull it down out of the hole for said access.

Push it up if you can. It gives you better access to the JB and, if you leave it hanging, the cheap ass flex connection to the can can come loose.

4" cans can be friction fit and take some massaging to pull down.

 

[99cents]

LanceBass;

Every splice you make up on the job MUST be ROCK SOLID, there are no mistakes.

Do it right 100% of the time, if you are told you are too slow it's because the faster guys are cutting corners hoping they do not get bagged.

The only splice problem I have had is on the factory connection to the Wago. That's Halo "quality" for you.

 

[Phatstax]

LanceBass;

Every splice you make up on the job MUST be ROCK SOLID, there are no mistakes.

Do it right 100% of the time, if you are told you are too slow it's because the faster guys are cutting corners hoping they do not get bagged.

LancedAss...
Harry's got it right. Always do your best.

 

[FrunkSlammer]

The only splice problem I have had is on the factory connection to the Wago. That's Halo "quality" for you.

When I come across those I always do a double check push on the factory job.. often one of the wires will not be pushed in the wago very far. Def. worth taking the time to recheck those. Doing it after is a big pain in the arse and makes you look bad.

 

[HARRY304E]

The only splice problem I have had is on the factory connection to the Wago. That's Halo "quality" for you.

I cut those off and toss them, wire nuts are the way to go, however Lance may not have that choice.

Wago's may be UL approved but if I worked for UL Wago's would not exist.

 

[Nobaddaysinak]

Is there a way to get into a recessed light when the drywall is up? I'm worried about something I wired...

That's why I like and prefer can lights. You can burn them at the rough in stage and check all your wiring plus it provides lighting for finish and it's the actual lighting. Nothing like working off halogen work stand lights then coming in and hang some lights to find paint or trim flaws that weren't apparent with the work lights.

 

[220/221]

I cut those off and toss them, wire nuts are the way to go, however Lance may not have that choice.

Wago's may be UL approved but if I worked for UL Wago's would not exist.

DO you still use a pay phone too? :laughing:

When crimps came out, there was probably still a lot of solder being used. When wire nuts came out, there were probably a lot of crimps still being used.

I might be guilty of cutting off the first ones I saw, but the things are solid.

We have installed several thousand of them (cans with wagos) with no failures. It is SO much easier/more comfortable than twisting damn nuts.

So, come over to the dark side. :thumbsup:

 

[Skipbayless]

I agree. If I can't use them I'll put them in a container, never know when I might need it on another one.

Sent from my SCH-I535 using electriciantalk.com mobile app

 

[99cents]

The issue isn't with the Wagos, it's the tinned stranded wire. You gotta check the factory connections before putting the lid on.

I use Wagos all the time. Twisting wire all day makes my trigger thumb freeze up.

 

[LanceBass]

LanceBass;

Every splice you make up on the job MUST be ROCK SOLID, there are no mistakes.

Do it right 100% of the time, if you are told you are too slow it's because the faster guys are cutting corners hoping they do not get bagged.

Yeah, it wasn't the splice it was me just having a mental error and wiring the lighting circuit incorrectly.

Luckily one of the other apprentices completely dropped the ball on literally everything he touched - all of which is now behind finished and painted walls - pretty much requiring complete rewiring of half the home...so hopefully my mistake will look trivial in comparison.

 

[LanceBass]

The origin of the problem is that every light my company does is box fed so sometimes things can get a little confusing on three and four ways...

 

[220/221]

Tell them to quit that nonsense.

 

[Andy17]

Wagos?!? We call them ports. And I'm sorry but time will show them to be junk. My boss thinks they're the greatest, I don't trust them. Splice, trim, twist the nut snug. Every connection every time.

I've gone on enough service calls to see bad connections be the problem. I believe Wagos won't stand the test of time.

 

[220/221]

I've seen more bad wire nut splices (hundreds) than Wago splices (zero) :laughing:

I instinctively didn't trust them because of backstabbed receptacles reputation.

I kept an open mind and now I think they are the ****.....unless I'm troubleshooting and they are the kind that cant be opened up.

I really like them when you are adding something and there is a spare hole left for you!!