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How do you rough in the wiring for a new home that's going to have under cabinet lights? Do you just leave a tail at each light location and have the drywallers stub it out for you? Any tips would be helpful. Thanks
 

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ET rocks
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This works when you have detailed elevation plans for the kitchen alone and the owner and GC stick to it.

The last one i did however, the owner wasn't sure if he was going to have custom cabinets, store bought, layout, etc., so i just installed switched receptacles above the uppers. My contract did not include installing UC lights.:thumbsup:
 

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Really need to know what kind you are getting. I really hate anything with external transformers/drivers etc. Like to steer them towards stuff thats self contained. If I have a place under the sink, I like to run all the feeds back to a junction box so there is only a single 14-2 in each light. Much easier than two.
 

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NJ-IEC
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How do you rough in the wiring for a new home that's going to have under cabinet lights? Do you just leave a tail at each light location and have the drywallers stub it out for you? Any tips would be helpful. Thanks
I would normally leave (1) cable at approximately 55" above the floor and write UNDER CABINET LIGHTING in a sharpie on the cable. Maybe even drive a nail on a stud and wrap the wire around that so there's no excuse for not noticing it, especially for any jackass sheet rocker who'll have to take the nail out in order to their job. Never have more than (1) cable per UC light. Install a junction box somewhere if you have to.
 

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I would normally leave (1) cable at approximately 55" above the floor and write UNDER CABINET LIGHTING in a sharpie on the cable. Maybe even drive a nail on a stud and wrap the wire around that so there's no excuse for not noticing it, especially for any jackass sheet rocker who'll have to take the nail out in order to their job. Never have more than (1) cable per UC light. Install a junction box somewhere if you have to.
Really cool idea about the nail.
No excuse then.
 

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Magnettica said:
I would normally leave (1) cable at approximately 55" above the floor and write UNDER CABINET LIGHTING in a sharpie on the cable. Maybe even drive a nail on a stud and wrap the wire around that so there's no excuse for not noticing it, especially for any jackass sheet rocker who'll have to take the nail out in order to their job. Never have more than (1) cable per UC light. Install a junction box somewhere if you have to.
1 is right. One of my guys did in & out at every light now i have to try and get them to fit
 

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I stub mine out about 1" - 2" above where the bottom of the upper cabinets are supposed to be set. That way when the cabinet installer is doing his thing he can notch the drywall and pull the wire through the lip of the cabinet and no drywall will need to be pointed up or patched

I also drive a nail in at an angle and fold the wire over it and tape it to the nail. No excuse for the drywaller not to bring it out of the wall.

Only 1 wire per light location. I set a jbox either behind the fridge or in the crawl.
 

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drspec said:
I stub mine out about 1" - 2" above where the bottom of the upper cabinets are supposed to be set. That way when the cabinet installer is doing his thing he can notch the drywall and pull the wire through the lip of the cabinet and no drywall will need to be pointed up or patched

I also drive a nail in at an angle and fold the wire over it and tape it to the nail. No excuse for the drywaller not to bring it out of the wall.

Only 1 wire per light location. I set a jbox either behind the fridge or in the crawl.
Yup! That's how we do it. We also leave a little bit of a loop of wire in the wall before the nail. Just in case our wire gets damaged, we will have some slack to pull out.
 

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NJ-IEC
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1 is right. One of my guys did in & out at every light now i have to try and get them to fit
FYI...

I've been using the Juno 12" and 18" UC LED lights and they're beautiful. They have the built-in Wago's and look beautiful. Very easy to wire and install. They also have the screws built right into the fixture so it saves time on labor. Great product IMO.
 

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Yup! That's how we do it. We also leave a little bit of a loop of wire in the wall before the nail. Just in case our wire gets damaged, we will have some slack to pull out.
What kind of u/c lights do you use? That's 14, right?

Another pro-tip; run all of the wires, in 12g (for a bunch of individual runs, don't stub out two wires in one location) to a junction box so that there are more choices for u/c lighting and it's easier to work with.
 

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Another pro-tip; run all of the wires, in 12g (for a bunch of individual runs, don't stub out two wires in one location) to a junction box so that there are more choices for u/c lighting and it's easier to work with.
12awg!??? I always run 18awg and never have any trouble. If it's a really long run (greater than 20ft?) at 12v and not LED, I'll bump it up to a 14.
 

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Magnettica said:
FYI... I've been using the Juno 12" and 18" UC LED lights and they're beautiful. They have the built-in Wago's and look beautiful. Very easy to wire and install. They also have the screws built right into the fixture so it saves time on labor. Great product IMO.
I havent seen those. Are they pricey
 
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