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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Quick question concerning splicing. I have to extend some fan wires and was wondering the best method of the two:
A. Butt splice (insulated)
B. Heat shrink
C. Both?
This should be interesting.

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Old Grumpy Bastard
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A. What type fan are you talking?

B. What environment are the wires located in?

C. What wire size / amp draw are you talking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
A. Residential.
B. Rod.
C. Probably 1/2 amp.

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Hackenschmidt
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A western union splice, soldered and insulated with heat shrink, is super secure and strong but it's overkill IMO in this case. If it had to be bomb proof it's a good way to go. If was low voltage you could splice legally without solder and it would be great.

The insulated stakon type butt splices are great with stranded wire but so-so with solid wire. In this case I wouldn't worry too much about it.

If it's solid wire, I'd take an uninsulated butt splice and heat shrink over the insulated type. You can crimp these down harder and deform the solid wire some so it grips better.
Insulated, they aren't made to crimp down super hard, the die is made so the tool bottoms out before you mangle the insulation. It's very easy to heat shrink over the uninsulated.

Stagger the butt splices so they don't overlap, and use three pieces of shrink tube, two small pieces over each butt splice then a bigger piece over both. I usually use the marine type with glue inside because why not.
 

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I wish Wago would make an inline levernut, similar to the Ideal Spliceline inline connectors.

I like the Splicelines for solid but I don't think smaller stranded wire like fan wiring pushes in right.

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In your situation I would just use butt splice crimps with 2" wide tape around it.
 

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Gold Pliers Champion
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A western union splice, soldered and insulated with heat shrink, is super secure and strong but it's overkill IMO in this case. If it had to be bomb proof it's a good way to go. If was low voltage you could splice legally without solder and it would be great.

The insulated stakon type butt splices are great with stranded wire but so-so with solid wire. In this case I wouldn't worry too much about it.

If it's solid wire, I'd take an uninsulated butt splice and heat shrink over the insulated type. You can crimp these down harder and deform the solid wire some so it grips better.
Insulated, they aren't made to crimp down super hard, the die is made so the tool bottoms out before you mangle the insulation. It's very easy to heat shrink over the uninsulated.

Stagger the butt splices so they don't overlap, and use three pieces of shrink tube, two small pieces over each butt splice then a bigger piece over both. I usually use the marine type with glue inside because why not.
The wire will break before that comes apart.
 

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To piggyback onto zac's question, what do you do when you need to lower a chandelier and there is not enough wire, and you can't open it up to run a new wire?
 

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Hackenschmidt
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To piggyback onto zac's question, what do you do when you need to lower a chandelier and there is not enough wire, and you can't open it up to run a new wire?
I guess there's really only two options there, splice onto the end of the original wire and hope nobody really looks at it, or, cut the wire off with just a couple inches at the top, and splice on new wire as I described, with the big shrink tube right up to the base.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
To piggyback onto zac's question, what do you do when you need to lower a chandelier and there is not enough wire, and you can't open it up to run a new wire?
I've seen one once. The chandelier had a sleeve that went around the chain and wire. To lengthen the chain the wire needed to be spliced. The sleeve covered the whole length of the chain like a sock so the splice wasn't scene.

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I've seen one once. The chandelier had a sleeve that went around the chain and wire. To lengthen the chain the wire needed to be spliced. The sleeve covered the whole length of the chain like a sock so the splice wasn't scene.
I've never done it, but I asked a friend who said that he has used those little blue wirenuts with a wrap of white tape and you could only see them if you were looking for them.

This is another place where the Splicelines would work well since they are straight-thru and clear, but I can't imagine that little stranded wire would push in well.

I really gotta talk to Wago, I want a straight thru levernut connector like I mentioned here as well as a 4-port levernut in a square configuration instead of inline. For all the promotion of their product that I'e done, they owe me :vs_mad:
 

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Estwing magic
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I've never done it, but I asked a friend who said that he has used those little blue wirenuts with a wrap of white tape and you could only see them if you were looking for them.

This is another place where the Splicelines would work well since they are straight-thru and clear, but I can't imagine that little stranded wire would push in well.

I really gotta talk to Wago, I want a straight thru levernut connector like I mentioned here as well as a 4-port levernut in a square configuration instead of inline. For all the promotion of their product that I'e done, they owe me :vs_mad:
I’m sure they’ll get right on that :D .
 

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Residential or commercial / industrial?

In some resi ceiling fan I would not even bother with a spice, I would just marrette some wire and be done with it.

If it was on a high velocity fan say in a barn or heat exchanger, I would be more inclined to solder and heat shrink due to the potential vibration issues.

If it was something that had to be changed out quickly or often, I might actually go with some sort of terminal block arrangement.

Cheers
John
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
I just inline spliced in with insulated butt splices and wrapped scotch 33 around it.
The fan is properly bonded so all should be good. Thanks guys.

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