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Town Drunk
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Parking lot light.:eek:







Perhaps rigid would have been better? Or maybe locating the conduit on the side?
 

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:laughing:

You see these all the time, but they're generally messed up from lawn mowers. This one is just plain bonked flat. Never seen one quite that way.

I agree that RMC would have been the better option. I don't really like those pot metal weatherproof boxes right near grade like that either, but that's just me. They sorta turn into crust after a number of years. I'd have probably used a cast FSC body.

When I refeed a failed parking lot light post like this (or feed something new on down the line) I generally tap the pole exactly opposite of the hand hole. This, to me, makes pulling the wire so much easier. They tapped the pole to the right of the handhole, which made pulling a tiny bit tougher and put the pipe right where a car's bumper can smack it. Job security.

I wonder if that EMT was energized? I'd say it might be a pretty good chance. Hard to tell what gauge wire is in that pipe, and how tight it may or may not be pinched.
 

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Town Drunk
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When I first saw your question, "Is the EMT energized", I thought you were refering to the conductors inside, which is-yes. The light is on.

But I think you meant the EMT ITSELF. I'm kind of irked at myself that I didn't check :censored: . I actually had my tools in my truck, and I probably should have at least put the ole' volt tick on it.
 

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My favorite is PVC stubbed up at light poles, walls, PIV valves, etc. The lawncare guys really tear them up with string trimmers and mowers. We usually use rigid.
 

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My favorite is PVC stubbed up at light poles, walls, PIV valves, etc. .
I thought (perhaps mistakenly) that all PIV valve conduits came up inside the valve body. No?
 

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Ours were done as a retrofit after 30 years. I have had to repair a few because of the yard guys.
The last time, the alarm guy said it needed to be fixed because water could get inside and short out the alarm wires.
 
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