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Tips for wiring a Kohler 38kw Gen?

880 Views 5 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  nrp3
I managed to get myself involved in the install of a 38kw Kohler generator (38RCLB) at a customers house. They had a falling out with the generator company and so they called me. Generac I can do in my sleep, but I'm not familiar with Kohler products at all. Simple to wire up? I brought the manuals home to read up on. Why are there 2 different transfer switches? I have an RDT, and an RXT.

I'm sure it's fairly straight forward, but if you guys have some tips I'd appreciate it.
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I’m assuming the RXT will drive this. The RDT will be the slave so to speak. I’d rather see two RDT switches, because the timing is different and the rdt ends up showing a fault during an outage. There is a module from psp in Virginia that will allow two RXT to work. RXT is less expensive.
 

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Depending upon distance, the RXT is usually two pair, twisted shielded for controls. You need a circuit, 120v for battery charger and and possibly another for a block heater and battery warmer if needed. Three conduits, one for low voltage controls, one for 120v stuff, and another for feeders. Kohlers come packaged with OnCue monitoring so pull some cat 5/6 wet location cable in the low voltage conduit for monitoring.
 

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Depending upon distance, the RXT is usually two pair, twisted shielded for controls. You need a circuit, 120v for battery charger and and possibly another for a block heater and battery warmer if needed. Three conduits, one for low voltage controls, one for 120v stuff, and another for feeders. Kohlers come packaged with OnCue monitoring so pull some cat 5/6 wet location cable in the low voltage conduit for monitoring.
I am trying to hook up the 120 v to the generator set. the lugs are not labeled "line" or "neutral". Does that mean they are not polarized
 

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You are going to need 120 volts for the battery charger. I use these:
Wood Font Rectangle Auto part Fashion accessory



Plug it into the voltage sensor on the normal side.
Use either a fixture fuse or a din rail mounted circuit breaker or fuse holder.

Generac has this resolved with the fuse block installed inn the ATS, Kohler doesnt.
The cable you need to pull is the Belden cable you typically run for a Crestron system with the black and red for the 12vdc and the twisted shielded pair.
 

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It’s been awhile since I’ve done one of these, but if there’s colors coming out the other side of the terminal block, I’d match up with them in the traditional sense. I know the air cooled ones have a marked terminal block for this.
 
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