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Torque for receptacles, switches

43K views 145 replies 47 participants last post by  460 Delta 
#1 ·
I am now torquing all circuit breakers, panel terminals, switches, and receptacles per 2017 NEC requirements. Torque for Leviton residential devices is 12 -14 inch pounds, commercial devices 20 inch pounds. I believe Hubble is 9-12 inch lbs for residential devices. Of course follow what is printed on the device, or consult the manufacturer.
I use a torque screwdriver with a range of 5 to 60 inch lbs. which cost about $70. I always return the dial to zero after a torquing session. I find it is much faster to use the torque tool verses a screwdriver and going 1/4 turn past "snug" which is not accurate.
 
#71 ·
I would like someone to explain the proper way to torque a lug set screw. When a lug is torqued to spec: DO OT WIGGLE THE WIRE. If you do the wire wiggles around and loosens up screwing up the torque setting. Is it proper to torque, wiggle retorque, wiggle then retorque to get the wire to set in the lug?
 
#91 ·
"And a qualified person can see the different tool mark that a torque wrench makes as opposed to a standard Allen key on lugs. "

Yeah, right.

Anyway, you have yourself a nice evening. Maybe we'll chat again.
 
#92 ·
If this is trolling, my compliments, if not, maybe switch to decaf. Looking for sharpie marks is worth about $0.01.

It doesn't catch mistakes made by the guy who really tries to do the right thing.

It doesn't catch the guy who doesn't give a damn and puts a sharpie mark on as if.

It catches the guy who torques correctly and does not make an ink mark.

Exactly what does it catch?

It's a joke.

As far as anyone video taping every connection - you're really onto something there. They should put those body cams police are wearing on the head of torque wrenches. You should propose that for the next code revision.
 
#97 ·
Here is what happens when you don't torque to spec. This failure took less than 12 months. The wire sheathing melted into the contacts, alerting the customer to the poor work when their oven stopped working. They're lucky their house didn't burn down. The bigger the current and smaller the gauge, the more torque is needed. If your electrician/handyman/whoever does not torque to spec, fire them.
157961
 
#112 ·
I am now torquing all circuit breakers, panel terminals, switches, and receptacles per 2017 NEC requirements. Torque for Leviton residential devices is 12 -14 inch pounds, commercial devices 20 inch pounds. I believe Hubble is 9-12 inch lbs for residential devices. Of course follow what is printed on the device, or consult the manufacturer.
I use a torque screwdriver with a range of 5 to 60 inch lbs. which cost about $70. I always return the dial to zero after a torquing session. I find it is much faster to use the torque tool verses a screwdriver and going 1/4 turn past "snug" which is not accurate.
None of it is accurate anyway. Torque is thread friction not clamping force.


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#123 ·
I bet if it were to be a rule that no corporation could profit from the requirement to use any product, there would be no more idiotic code changes.
If that rule went into effect and covered current and future code, it would pare down the NEC to the size of an Ugly’s and just as easy to understand.
 
#125 ·
I know this issue has been beat to death, but I still have not gotten an answer on the proper procedure to torque a lug. When we install a 250 kcmil xhhw al into a SqD lug and tighten it to 450 inlbs, then back off and retorque to 450 inlbs the wire still will come loose and fall out of the lug when it gets wiggled wihile installing other wire in the panel. I am sick of hearing "just torque it to the spec." There has got to be a procedure to follow. does anybody know what it is?
 
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