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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I’m getting ready to do a 200’ UG service that runs into a tap box.

I have a couple questions.

What size pipe would you use running 200A Aluminum feeders @ a 200’ distance? The last couple I did I used 2 1/2” pvc but they were a much shorter distance.

Do I need a pull box with this length run

I’ve only piped into ground utility boxes on previous services, how is a tap box different in regards to pipe entry? I’d figure they sit on a some sort of pad..


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2 1/2 should be fine and no, you shouldn't need a pull box. We just did a run like that this summer with 250MCM cable and it was a very easy pull for 2 guys. I did use 3" pipe because it was cheaper at the time, but I don't think that made much difference.

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Hackenschmidt
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There are a lot of jobs that spec no more than 100' between junction boxes but it is not a code requirement. Of course a pull box will only make it easier as long as it's a straight through pull. The pull box doesn't really need to be in the middle. A pull box right near either end will make it easier just because you're not pulling through two 90s.

Say it's three 250kcmil, that's less than 25% fill in 2-1/2" and about 15% in 3" conduit so you're well under the 40% limit, I think you'd be fine without a pull box if it's a straight shot lubed up well and a good hand on the feeding end. Of course that's easy for me to say because it's no skin off my knuckles whatever you do :)

As for the tap box, that would be up to the poco right?
 

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I’m getting ready to do a 200’ UG service that runs into a tap box.

I have a couple questions.

What size pipe would you use running 200A Aluminum feeders @ a 200’ distance? The last couple I did I used 2 1/2” pvc but they were a much shorter distance.

Do I need a pull box with this length run

I’ve only piped into ground utility boxes on previous services, how is a tap box different in regards to pipe entry? I’d figure they sit on a some sort of pad..


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If you are talking about feeding the poco meter, check with them. Mine has a website that specs every single type of service. around here they specify not doing all sorts of things that we would do as a matter of course
 

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You do not mention any conditions, turns, or Ells for this run.

Running the calculations based on 200 amps the 4/0 delivers and ~ 8.5v drop and ~3.5%. Bit strong for a service, IMO. True most residential services never pull much more than 100 amps.

I had 150 amp service overhead, that I measured 55 amps with all loads running. I was surprised.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
You do not mention any conditions, turns, or Ells for this run.

Running the calculations based on 200 amps the 4/0 delivers and ~ 8.5v drop and ~3.5%. Bit strong for a service, IMO. True most residential services never pull much more than 100 amps.

I had 150 amp service overhead, that I measured 55 amps with all loads running. I was surprised.
I’ve never ran anything less than 4/0 for a 200A service.


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I installed 250mcm for my 200 amp riser. Down here in the desert we have to take a temp derate.
 

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Definitely ask your poco. Did one years ago, specified by an engineer, 4 inch pipe, 3 pull points, 2 10' 3/4" ground rods per pull point, (hand driven my me as an apprentice 30 something years ago). Poco shows up says they'll be back after we remove 2 of the pull points (these were 3' round concrete enclosures). Fun times. But sounds like you're installing the wires? Suppose that's a different story then.

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Definitely ask your poco. Did one years ago, specified by an engineer, 4 inch pipe, 3 pull points, 2 10' 3/4" ground rods per pull point, (hand driven my me as an apprentice 30 something years ago). Poco shows up says they'll be back after we remove 2 of the pull points (these were 3' round concrete enclosures). Fun times. But sounds like you're installing the wires? Suppose that's a different story then.

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I’ve never had poco look at anything other than our lines in their box.


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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
That Sweetbriar triplex is very small.
I would install 2".
I have pulled 600' with 3-4/0 and a 2/0 no problem in a 2" pvc.
Also,
Its rated for 240 amps.
2” would also work just fine. Sweetbriar triplex is rated 240a? Didn’t know it was that high. I thought it was just slightly over 200


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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
So now 2 in sch 40 PVC is $37 a stick, 2-1/2 sch 40 is $64. How hard do you want to pull.
Prices are insane. I may go 2” because I’m going to buy left over material in bulk on marketplace. 2” and 3” are more commonly listed.


My pull only has 2 90’s and they are at the meter and the tap box, in between I do have a long gradual sweep which we will bend ourselves to keep the pull easy.

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I just wanted to add to this thread because I do a lot of this kind of work. 200' for 200A you need 2" PVC and 4/0 triplex (Sweet Briar) add a ground wire if it's required by local codes. You can do this by yourself if you dig the trench, roll the wire out and thread the conduit onto the wire and then throw it in the ditch and cover it up. It's MUCH easier than running the conduit and then trying to pull the wire in afterwards. Make sure to put some kind of de-ox on the connections.
 

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I just wanted to add to this thread because I do a lot of this kind of work. 200' for 200A you need 2" PVC and 4/0 triplex (Sweet Briar) add a ground wire if it's required by local codes. You can do this by yourself if you dig the trench, roll the wire out and thread the conduit onto the wire and then throw it in the ditch and cover it up. It's MUCH easier than running the conduit and then trying to pull the wire in afterwards. Make sure to put some kind of de-ox on the connections.

300.18 Raceway Installations.
(A) Complete Runs.

Raceways, other than busways or exposed raceways having hinged or removable covers, shall be installed complete between outlet, junction, or splicing points prior to the installation of conductors. Where required to facilitate the installation of utilization equipment, the raceway shall be permitted to be initially installed without a terminating connection at the equipment. Prewired raceway assemblies shall be permitted only where specifically permitted in this Code for the applicable wiring method.
 

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300.18 Raceway Installations.
(A) Complete Runs.

Raceways, other than busways or exposed raceways having hinged or removable covers, shall be installed complete between outlet, junction, or splicing points prior to the installation of conductors. Where required to facilitate the installation of utilization equipment, the raceway shall be permitted to be initially installed without a terminating connection at the equipment. Prewired raceway assemblies shall be permitted only where specifically permitted in this Code for the applicable wiring method.
Please explain to me how putting the wire in the conduit as you're installing it in a ditch is in ANY manner dangerous, unworkmanshiplike, a problem of any sort or otherwise a negative situation. I use this method frequently for underground conductors. It saves time and labor and is substantially easier. As long as you don't have too many 90°s in the conduit I can't for the life of me see how this would ever pose any problems.
 

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Please explain to me how putting the wire in the conduit as you're installing it in a ditch is in ANY manner dangerous, unworkmanshiplike, a problem of any sort or otherwise a negative situation. I use this method frequently for underground conductors. It saves time and labor and is substantially easier. As long as you don't have too many 90°s in the conduit I can't for the life of me see how this would ever pose any problems.
I didn’t say it was dangerous, unworkmanshiplike, or a problem. It’s just not code complaint.
 

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Please explain to me how putting the wire in the conduit as you're installing it in a ditch is in ANY manner dangerous, unworkmanshiplike, a problem of any sort or otherwise a negative situation. I use this method frequently for underground conductors. It saves time and labor and is substantially easier. As long as you don't have too many 90°s in the conduit I can't for the life of me see how this would ever pose any problems.
I am just guessing but I figure the intention of that rule is that conduits should be constructed so you can replace the wire if necessary. If you can pull the wire in, you can pull the wire out and replace it. If you build the conduit around the wire it might not budge in the least.
 
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