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I work for a service shop. No complaints, love what I do.
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Discussion Starter · #22 ·
Do you not get paid for the material? $150 is gonna break your customer's poker bank?
No it's all good I'm just annoyed at how a messily little 2 port polaris tap is $50 lol, c'mon now what the heck! Here this is why, it's a bit of a story... So no more than like 45 mins from start to finish to transfer over to gen power, and another 45 mins when I transfer back to utility, and the job is for $960. The kicker is that I talked him into paying me in 80 hours of game time instead of cash, which he did offer cash. I figured I'd entice him with game hours and ask for more hours than I'd want in cash to see if he bites at that. Which they charge $12/hour to play poker here. I asked for 75 hours. He accepted and rounded it up to 80 hours, loaded my members card right then and there. So they technically don't have to pay a dime for me to do the work, they just loaded hours onto my players card, and now I don't have to pay $12/hour for the next 80 hours 馃榿. So that $150 is coming out of my pocket but being made back up whenever I play poker lol.

Just curious now that you guys know how much I charged. I'm new to doing work on my own, how much would you have charged to do this work?
 

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Electrical contractor 37 years. Electrical inspector 2 years
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No it's all good I'm just annoyed at how a messily little 2 port polaris tap is $50 lol, c'mon now what the heck! Here this is why, it's a bit of a story... So no more than like 45 mins from start to finish to transfer over to gen power, and another 45 mins when I transfer back to utility, and the job is for $960. The kicker is that I talked him into paying me in 80 hours of game time instead of cash, which he did offer cash. I figured I'd entice him with game hours and ask for more hours than I'd want in cash to see if he bites at that. Which they charge $12/hour to play poker here. I asked for 75 hours. He accepted and rounded it up to 80 hours, loaded my members card right then and there. So they technically don't have to pay a dime for me to do the work, they just loaded hours onto my players card, and now I don't have to pay $12/hour for the next 80 hours 馃榿. So that $150 is coming out of my pocket but being made back up whenever I play poker lol.

Just curious now that you guys know how much I charged. I'm new to doing work on my own, how much would you have charged to do this work?
I like the barter system but I seem to always get the short end. If I gambled I probably would have done the same thing.
 

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So you were going to make $640/hour; now you make $540/hour, plus you have a set of Polaris lugs that you can pit to use somewhere else and bill for them. Doesn't sound like a bad deal at all to me!

Sent from my SM-G970U using Tapatalk
 

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Been taking it easy on doing electrical work for the last couple months so I'm a little rusty. Just want to make sure everything is good here. I have a commercial building with a 400A service. It's a 120/240 with a high leg. They're telling me POCO is shutting power down from 8am - 3pm on the 28th of this month, and they want me to hook up temporary power in the mean time. Generator will only be running maybe 12 hours at most. They said they'll supply the generator and cables, I am only there to hook it up. These guys know nothing about electrical, but he said the only generator he can find is 25kva. You think this would be fine for just half day temporary power. This is a poker club. They have a couple RTUs, a kitchen, bunch of tvs, not much more going on. It's been poring rain 24/7 so I haven't been able to check their amp draw. Just curious if this 25kva would most likely be fine for a 400A. That's my question, hope everyone's doing well.
Have them provide their last few electric bills, they should have the demand KW on it.
 

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It might be interesting to note that we automatically switch the utility high leg from C to B. Please be sure to check the rotation you might find your building is CCW and typically the rental units are CW.
for me, it think I would just give the building 120/208 and not try to get involved with using a rental unit configured with a high leg. If there is very little load on the high leg, the rental isn鈥檛 going to like it and might shut down
 

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For a temp setup, I wouldn't be too worried about the location of the neutral/ground bond or even if there's more than one.
Oh the genny is a separately derived system. It doesn't know what a ground even is, it has no reference unless you ground it to earth ground/neutral via the plethora of ways in which that is going to happen anyway.
 

Bilge Rat
motors and controls.........
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Does anything run on 3 phase? A/c or refrigeration? I think these are specified for either delta or wye and cannot change.
I've never heard of that before.

Motors don't care what type of power they're fed with, they look at phase to phase voltage and nothing else.

I remember an article a few years ago that some educated idiot engineer wrote to revolutionize the industry. He claimed that either a Y motor could not be run on 鈭 power or a 鈭 motor could not be run on Y power, I can't remember which.

I guess the fact that there are several million Y motors run on 鈭 power or 鈭 motors run on Y power doesn't matter; he needed some quick $$$ to make his boat payment..........
 

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I've never heard of that before.

Motors don't care what type of power they're fed with, they look at phase to phase voltage and nothing else.

I remember an article a few years ago that some educated idiot engineer wrote to revolutionize the industry. He claimed that either a Y motor could not be run on 鈭 power or a 鈭 motor could not be run on Y power, I can't remember which.

I guess the fact that there are several million Y motors run on 鈭 power or 鈭 motors run on Y power doesn't matter; he needed some quick $$$ to make his boat payment..........
And isnt there a manual controller submersed in oil that would do both, start on Delta, then switch it to a Y?
 

Bilge Rat
motors and controls.........
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And isnt there a manual controller submersed in oil that would do both, start on Delta, then switch it to a Y?
There sure is but but it starts on Y then switches to 鈭 It's called a Y-鈭 or a star-鈭 starter.

There are also non-oil ones too.

They are available from any of the major manufacturers.

The starter changes the motor stator connections so it starts with lower current and lower torque but it doesn't matter what the incoming power connection is.

Lets say we have a 6 or 12 lead 460 volt motor. The stator is designed to operate at 460 volts with a 鈭 connection. If we were to re-connect the stator Y, it'd want to see 796 volts but it'll give about 1/3 of its normal torque on 460. It'll also draw about 1/3 of its normal starting current.
 

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There sure is but but it starts on Y then switches to 鈭 It's called a Y-鈭 or a star-鈭 starter.

There are also non-oil ones too.

They are available from any of the major manufacturers.

The starter changes the motor stator connections so it starts with lower current and lower torque but it doesn't matter what the incoming power connection is.

Lets say we have a 6 or 12 lead 460 volt motor. The stator is designed to operate at 460 volts with a 鈭 connection. If we were to re-connect the stator Y, it'd want to see 796 volts but it'll give about 1/3 of its normal torque on 460. It'll also draw about 1/3 of its normal starting current.
Yep I get it, I'm OK with the theory just never put it into practice, nor PLCs though one could argue our computerized traffic signal controllers are PLCs
 

Bilge Rat
motors and controls.........
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Yep I get it, I'm OK with the theory just never put it into practice, nor PLCs though one could argue our computerized traffic signal controllers are PLCs
I haven't done signals for a long time but yes, a controller is basically a PLC. Data in, data out. I guess you could call a conflict monitor a PLC too, but it deals with less data. It's more like a safety relay than anything else.
 
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