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I apologize, I thought I had better pictures.

I have a client with a submersible pump, deep well torpedo style. They had to replace some pipe and hose, while it is up we need to repair the splice joints. It's 10AWG pump cable to pump leads. Are the crimps just regular butt splices off the shelf pieces to be used with the heavy duty heat shrink or are there special kits specifically designed for this sort of application?

Manufacturer seems to suggest butt splices for smaller gauge wiring.

Thanks in advance.

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I've done the same in an emergency with butt splices, silicone and 88. It has been working for the past 15 yrs + A proper kit would have been better but it's a simple repair, don't over think it.

Tim.
 

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I apologize, I thought I had better pictures.

I have a client with a submersible pump, deep well torpedo style. They had to replace some pipe and hose, while it is up we need to repair the splice joints. It's 10AWG pump cable to pump leads. Are the crimps just regular butt splices off the shelf pieces to be used with the heavy duty heat shrink or are there special kits specifically designed for this sort of application?

Manufacturer seems to suggest butt splices for smaller gauge wiring.

Thanks in advance.

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View attachment 168751
It is more about the heatshrink you put over it.
HD sells the same thing as below.
Crimping them tight is important if you don't have the proper crimper.
Shhhh don't tell anyone but I have been know to use a hammer and steel block on bare small butt splices.

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Fancy. The guys who put my well in last year just used marettes at the well cap. Still working so I've let it be.
Either your well is super shallow, there are splices in the well below the water line, or the pump was ordered with the length of cable preinstalled. Off the shelf pumps generally only have a couple of feet of lead that you splice into close to the pump then run the cable up to the surface.
 

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Its 125 feet deep.. I belive the lower splice was done at the supplier. Seems like the best route to go if possible. I can't remember what they had for a a connection. Vaguely remember some clear connectors/shrink tube. 2 years ago though so hard to say now. I'd think a burial rated kit would do.
 

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Either your well is super shallow, there are splices in the well below the water line, or the pump was ordered with the length of cable preinstalled. Off the shelf pumps generally only have a couple of feet of lead that you splice into close to the pump then run the cable up to the surface.
I have seen it where they cut the wires at the cap to yoyo the well to repair, this avoids pulling them out of the house. on a new well they drop the wires down hole then pull to the house. But almost always have waterproof splices down hole.
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This is a small unit that pulls the cable, wire and black well pipe at one shot but well has to be disconnected. For shallow wells people pull them by hand and leave everything connected and just lay line on ground if they have room.
 
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Its 125 feet deep.. I belive the lower splice was done at the supplier. Seems like the best route to go if possible. I can't remember what they had for a a connection. Vaguely remember some clear connectors/shrink tube. 2 years ago though so hard to say now. I'd think a burial rated kit would do.
The splice kit just the cowboy referenced has clear heat shrink with sealer inside. It's fairly thick to protect the splice from abrasion as well.
 

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If you ever get in a bind, you can use 130C and PVC cement.
Use several wraps of 130C stretched good and tight with no sharp edges or loose spots, then take PVC solvent cement and daub it on nice and heavy and work it in with the dauber ball. After the glue flashes off, drop it in the drink.

Right or wrong I’ve done numerous this way with the same good results, however YMMV.
 

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Chief Flunky
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1. Have the motor shop just put a longer cable on it for you. No splices = no failures.

2. If you MUST splice…follow American Electricians handbook. Strip out plenty of cable. Buy crimp barrel connectors. They are cheap and very reliable. Buy heavy wall adhesive lined heat shrink. But enough to cover each barrel connector plus about 2 inches and diameter just bigger than the barrel connector, and then one bigger than the overall jacket and several inches longer than the other tubing combined.

3. Strip the jacket out on both pieces.. Lay them facing each other. Cut each conductor so the barrel connectors do not overlap…stagger about 1” apart. Now before doing anything else, take your heat shrink tubes and slide them all on first thing. If you forget to do this you have to start all over.

4. Strip and crimp on all the cables so the barrel connectors do not overlap. Now warm up each of the smaller ones with a heat gun and shrink it on. A gas cylinder (propane) works good too but oxy-acetylene is way too hot to control it. Then shrink on the outer jacket. This will outlast the rest of the cable.

This makes a water proof splice that lasts as long as the cable and it’s cheap. I can splice this way in about 10-20 minutes while working from a work boat in a dredge operation. I’ve done it dozens of times.
 

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Thanks to whoever changed the thread title to be a bit more clear and to the point
I've been doing it regularly for a few months now.

It solves many problems on the back end and is good for archiving/ retrival if anyone wants to read it later on.
 
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