We still can do it to kitchen counter plugs in Canada using #14awg (15A) instead of #12awg (20A). That's one common example.
When to run different branch circuits to each half of an outlet?
In what situation would you do this, and why? My textbook is talking about split receptacles. Thanks.
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Mostly it is usefull when one half is switched. So you get your needed rec and a switched rec on one yoke.
But why wouldn't you just bring a switched conductor to the bottom, and a constant hot to the top?Ultrafault said:Mostly it is usefull when one half is switched. So you get your needed rec and a switched rec on one yoke.
That's exactly what you do in that case(or vice versa). Another use for a split receptacle could be an outlet for garbage disposal and dishwasherBut why wouldn't you just bring a switched conductor to the bottom, and a constant hot to the top?
I often wire the receptacle under the sink using a duplex device as a 14/3 split when the plan calls for both a instahot and GD in the kitchen.
different branch circuits on the same yolk check 210.7
perhaps when the load planned to be on the two receptacles would be expected to overload one circuit ?In what situation would you do this, and why? My textbook is talking about split receptacles. Thanks.
My instructor says he always runs separate circuits for the dishwasher and garbage disposal, because the dishwasher has a heating element in it. What do you guys think of this?
circuits are sized to expected loads per the NEC rules.
"because the DW has a heating element" is not a reason, per the NEC, to necessitate 2 circuits. other reasons may apply, but not the reason given.
"because the DW has a heating element" is not a reason, per the NEC, to necessitate 2 circuits. other reasons may apply, but not the reason given.
In the past, I would simply run a 14/3 to fee the dish/disp. With today's code changes (2014). I might have to rethink that. One AFCI VS 2. I would need to know the draws on each appliance on rough in order to combine them. So I probably would run separate circuits to each to cover my butt.
It has nothing to do with a heating element. It has to do with the draw on each appliance.
It has nothing to do with a heating element. It has to do with the draw on each appliance.
I just did this, had very limited space inside a island. I think in 10 years of doing electrical work its the first time ive ever brought two circuits to one outlet.That's exactly what you do in that case(or vice versa). Another use for a split receptacle could be an outlet for garbage disposal and dishwasher
My instructor says he always runs separate circuits for the dishwasher and garbage disposal, because the dishwasher has a heating element in it. What do you guys think of this?
Put both on a single 20. I have yet to see a case where that wont work out in a regular kitchen. The separate circuit thing is an urban myth that takes up space in a panel.
Do the afci requirements apply to cord and plug connected fixed equipment?In the past, I would simply run a 14/3 to fee the dish/disp. With today's code changes (2014). I might have to rethink that. One AFCI VS 2. I would need to know the draws on each appliance on rough in order to combine them. So I probably would run separate circuits to each to cover my butt.
It has nothing to do with a heating element. It has to do with the draw on each appliance.
You put an AFCI on your appliances?In the past, I would simply run a 14/3 to fee the dish/disp. With today's code changes (2014). I might have to rethink that. One AFCI VS 2. I would need to know the draws on each appliance on rough in order to combine them. So I probably would run separate circuits to each to cover my butt.
It has nothing to do with a heating element. It has to do with the draw on each appliance.
I thought the point of arc-fault protection was to keep arcing lamp cords from igniting carpet or combustible material on the floor.
I don't see the point of it anywhere else.
I don't see the point of it anywhere else.
I believe the 2014 NEC states 120V 15 and 20A Kitchen Outlets as required to be AFCI protection.
Code reference, anyone?Deep Cover said:I believe the 2014 NEC states 120V 15 and 20A Kitchen Outlets as required to be AFCI protection.
So how do you label at the panel? Say home owner for some reason swaps the plugs then gets electrocuted because he trip the wrong breaker. Who's at fault?My instructor says he always runs separate circuits for the dishwasher and garbage disposal, because the dishwasher has a heating element in it. What do you guys think of this?
They are. They should check it before servicing.Holt said:So how do you label at the panel? Say home owner for some reason swaps the plugs then gets electrocuted because he trip the wrong breaker. Who's at fault?
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