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Arsholeprentice
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Are you quoting a 22cu box in every receptacle and a deep cut in on every switch box?
When I quote them, I quote like I am just splicing and installing new devices. I have a line item that says $xx.xx per location where a box is required to be removed and replaced or an extension used. Then at the end of the project I just add up whatever it is I used.
 

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Electrical contractor 37 years. Electrical inspector 2 years
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890 Posts
If I remember correctly they was a certain time when the regular good grade wire nut was approved for Aluminum wire if installed correctly. The problem was that us electricians do not read instructions and just install things the way we wanted. Problems ensued and it was the wire nut manufacturers that were taking the blame and getting sued. So due to additional testing requirements and the liability of electricians not following instructions, the manufactures said no more use on Aluminum wire. If you can find a wire nut made back in 1980 +/- that was UL rated for Aluminum then you could use it. Now the $5.00 wire nut has a liability premium built into it.
 

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Electrician
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Supply house price on a 100 pack of dark brown 63P. The dark brown 65P are 70 cents each. Switch price was individual from home depot.
This might be why I havent seen these locally. They are not UL listed and the CSA listing they have is the Canada CSA listing and not CSA listing for US. Unless I'm missing something?? Sucks for us as I think our cheapest option down south is about $3 each for a purple.

153079

153080

153082
 

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Master Electrician - Ontario
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3,353 Posts
My always preferred option is to use AL rated devices. Generally the box sizing is right and I don't have to worry about changing out boxes. My second choice is the pigtail with the brown nuts. If the wires are too short, then I will use the Aluicon connectors. I never use the purple nuts. I have many of the fail, so they are not worth the risk in my opinion.

I do a lot of AL remediation and I find in the end this is the most cost effective approach. I also keep scrap AL to make pigtails if necessary; if I don't have to mix CU and AL I won't.

Cheers
John
 

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27 Posts
Discussion Starter #25
I'm curious on the actual code rule regarding the grounding wire. The existing plugs were wired with the copper pigtails but the ground wires just had penetrox on them and straight to the green ground screw. Is there any possible way this was a legit install? To me even though it's not carrying current it's still aluminum ground wire on a copper terminal.
 

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Light Bender
plumber
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A joint compound is only required on stranded aluminum conductors by code (12-118(2) and many manufacturers spec will tell you if you need if for their connectors. Most often not.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
A joint compound is only required on stranded aluminum conductors by code (12-118(2) and many manufacturers spec will tell you if you need if for their connectors. Most often not.
Right. So by the code since the receptacle isn't rated for aluminum it is in violation. I am curious why they only pigtailed the neutral and hots if that is the case.
 
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