Why do u need an impact driver at all? IMO they are no stronger then their chuck sporting counter parts. They have less options on the bits they except are mutch More expensive and are ridiculously loud. The only thing I do like about them is in tight spaces around finished work they don't have the chuck to rub on a freshly painted wall and leave the unmistakable black rub marks.

 

I am guessing you haven't used your impact very much. I use mine for almost everything other than small hammer drill functions. Smaller, lighter just faster for almost everything. IMO

 

Why do u need an impact driver at all? IMO they are no stronger then their chuck sporting counter parts. They have less options on the bits they except are mutch More expensive and are ridiculously loud. The only thing I do like about them is in tight spaces around finished work they don't have the chuck to rub on a freshly painted wall and leave the unmistakable black rub marks.

I use my 18v impact more than my 18v XRP hammerdrill. I bought it as an impulse bare tool and love it... Who cares about the noise. I have yet to strip a head and the compact size is nice. You'd have to pry it from my cold, dead hand to make me give it up

 

Why do u need an impact driver at all? IMO they are no stronger then their chuck sporting counter parts. They have less options on the bits they except are mutch More expensive and are ridiculously loud. The only thing I do like about them is in tight spaces around finished work they don't have the chuck to rub on a freshly painted wall and leave the unmistakable black rub marks.

Smaller, faster, stronger. Seem to get the screw to go in far easier and tighter. I've used one a few times and loved it.

 

I use my 18v impact more than my 18v XRP hammerdrill. I bought it as an impulse bare tool and love it... Who cares about the noise. I have yet to strip a head and the compact size is nice. You'd have to pry it from my cold, dead hand to make me give it up

Do you know what the difference is between the versions they have. If someone could link to the best choice from dewalt that'd be nice :thumbsup:

 

My 13 . Whatever,Bosch impact has quit on a few four inch sheet rockers and my 13 . Whatever ridgid finished em off. Just saying.


But no I really couldn't tell ya :no::no: lol

 

I use the 1/4" 18V impact driver. It's for driving screws and fastening mostly. I helped a fried build his daughters playset and drove who knows how many 3 and 4 inch deck screws without the impact flinching, it's a beast. The impact wrenches are geared more toward automotive I believe.

I can get any bit I need for my impact, but I do always buy impact ready bits, extensions, nutsetters, etc...

 

As Long as you already have batteries, amazon has the bare tool for about $77, where as I paid $119 at lowes

I have the dc825b by the way

 

Why do u need an impact driver at all? IMO they are no stronger then their chuck sporting counter parts. They have less options on the bits they except are mutch More expensive and are ridiculously loud. The only thing I do like about them is in tight spaces around finished work they don't have the chuck to rub on a freshly painted wall and leave the unmistakable black rub marks.

First off, an impact driver will far outperform any drill of the same voltage as far as using on all different fasteners at the same time using much less battery. Drills are now strictly for drilling. Also, everybody does agree that they are lighter, and faster right?

 

Dewalt 1/4" ceo impact model DC825KA is what I carry, compact and awesome. I have no qualms recommending it.

 

Actually I own both the regular 18v and 12v lion dewalt impact drivers and the 12v is excellent. I have yet to run into anything the 12v can't do as good and almost as fast as the 18v. Although the 18v lion battery kicks serious ass. I use my 12v 95% of the time.

 

I would say 90% of residential and commercial work can be done with a 12 volt impact.

Industrial is where I've had to break out the 18 volt.

 

So why the different versions Hex 1/2 1/4

What's the standard? I see pricing from 179-270

I don't have any dewalt tools just ryobi so I'd need the kit.

 

Those are for impact sockets, so you don't need to use a conversion bit.

 

Just depends on how often you use it and how much you're willing to spend.

And why are you buying off of newegg.com?

I don't think I'd buy anything but computer components off that website.

 

It's actually through a third party tool seller. Option one seems to be the factory reconditioned of this http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA02V02A5962

which is $245 so I'd be getting it for $179.00

 

I always keep the lithium ion on the impact for weight and portability. I have one lithium and 2 xrp. Here is a picture for size reference.

 

I have the 18v drill/impact set I always use the impact, the regular drill rarely comes out of the toolbag.

If your getting an impact get this attachment set

http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc...N-5yc1v/R-202024713/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053


Also dewalt just came out with a new line of tools

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs...Display?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053&productId=202922439&R=202922439

 

At my last job I had the 12v DeWalt impact and the 1/2 drill. I kept a spade bit in the drill and used the impact for everything else. Pound for pound and like voltage the impacts cannot be beat. On my own work I use the Milwaukee 12v impact and the Makita 18v lion, the 12v doesn't drive 3/8" lags like the Makita can. I have a Hilti 14v drill for drilling holes. I am not a big DeWalt fan when I am paying for the tool myself.

 

At my last job I had the 12v DeWalt impact and the 1/2 drill. I kept a spade bit in the drill and used the impact for everything else. Pound for pound and like voltage the impacts cannot be beat. On my own work I use the Milwaukee 12v impact and the Makita 18v lion, the 12v doesn't drive 3/8" lags like the Makita can. I have a Hilti 14v drill for drilling holes. I am not a big DeWalt fan when I am paying for the tool myself.

I got the DeWalt Referb for 179 it'll be here next Tuesday. Don't own any DeWalts so battery wasn't an issue.

 

Impact drivers take the impact off your wrist also. Imagine having to screw in lets say a 1000 deck screws with an impact driver held with one hand. Now imagine the same thing with a drill. Another example would be to try to unfasten an extremely tight nut with a drill held with one hand vs an impact driver held with one hand. These illustrations should point exactly why you use one vs the other, all else equal.

 

I bought one on eBay a few years ago, came with a fancy belt hook.
It's been thrown in mud, it's got PVC glue all over it, I use it until it's almost too hot to touch and it still goes like a madman.

I bought a 9 piece DeWalt 18V set on Boxing day (for you Americans, it's like black friday, but after christmas)
$400 off.
Came with a 1/2" drive impact, it's waaaay stronger than ANY air impact I've owned.

 

I need to upgrade to the lithium stuff. My ni-cads are heavy as $hit.

 

Make sure the suff you upgrade to is the heavy duty stuff .

Some of the new stuff is crap..:no:

 

i know you like dewalt, but the makita impact is much better.

Everyone i see uses makita impacts.

you are really going to want the lithium ion as well.

 

i know you like dewalt, but the makita impact is much better.

Everyone i see uses makita impacts.

you are really going to want the lithium ion as well.

Makita or Hilti are fantastic 1/4" impacts, all others are ok at best. I have the Makita 18v lion and drive 3/8" lags with it all the time.

 

I used the crap out of my Makita impact driver today and I used the same battery in my drill to drill some 3/4" holes, used the battery in my metal cutting saw to cut a few pieces of strut and a pile of EMT. I kept meaning to grab the other battery off the charger but never ended up doing it and rasn that one battery all day with no problem. Makita is definitely the way to go.

 

Yeah makitas good but you will be extremely lucky to have the battery last as long as mf daggers did. They do gave good longevity but I change mine a couple times a day when using it heavily. I have about the same with my dewalt. Were you save time with the makita is the quicker charge time.

 

I think I'm going to pick up the Milwaukee 12V impact bare tool now that I bought the rotary tool kit with battery and charger.

Anyone have any input on the milwaukee?

 

I have been using the Milwaukee M18 stuff and man i think it is the best so far they have cought up to DeWalt and the hackzall beats everybody...:thumbup::thumbup:

 

i have the m12 stuff, and it doesnt even come close to the makita.

even the milwaukee hammerdrill lacks to my makita. I do a lot of data racks, and the milwaukee dies before, and is heavier then my makita.

 

I will give it to Milwaukee that I would trust that to fall off a ladder before I would trust a Makita to take the same drop.

 

They're about to drop their new line of tools in retail channels (already available on Amazon), which is the 20v MAX system (actually an 18v system but they named it this because they didn't want to confuse current owners). From what I've read, their stuff is lighter, tougher, and more powerful than their current 18v offerings. It also uses a slide battery pack, so it is not compatible with the current 18v lines.

I just ordered the 5pc 20v max kit.

Hammer Drill
Sawzall
Impact
Flashlight
Skillsaw

Should have it next week, I'll post back and compare it to my current 18v kit.

 

20 volt max is still 18 volt. Don't be fooled by that.

I'm not looking at DeWalt anyway, I'll be upgrading to Bosch's Brute Tough models.

 

I'm totally aware that it's not 20v. I have had great luck with all my 18v nicad max stuff.

I have a few 12v max lithium drills and impacts and love them. Hopefully the 18v lithium tools will be just as good

 

I hate marketing ploys like that. Bosch did the same thing with their 10.8 volts. Because milwaukee was calling theirs 12 volt, Bosch got insecure and relabeled their baby line to 12 volt MAX.

 

I hate marketing ploys like that. Bosch did the same thing with their 10.8 volts. Because milwaukee was calling theirs 12 volt, Bosch got insecure and relabeled their baby line to 12 volt MAX.

I hear ya but I can understand where they are coming from. They have the 18v max Nicads and also the 18v lithiums that are compatible with the 18v nicad tools. So calling the new set 18v lithium max would mean 3 different 18v lines and not all compatible.

Doesn't make it right to call it 20v when it's really 18 tho.

 

Doesn't make it right to call it 20v when it's really 18 tho.

It's no different than the millions of guys telling their GFs and wives it's 12" when it ain't!