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I have been using one of these stanley fat max hammers for probably 5 years or more, they used to come with black handles but now it's just the natural woodgrain. 22oz is enough oomph for most anything, if I need a bigger hammer I use the dead on annihilator

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I like hammers

Here are a collection of novel hammers I am considering as alternatives to the Ideal steel electricians hammer. (Online alternatives to the great tried and true reliable always available at every store down the street 16oz Eastwing or Stanley rip hammers) For those who like to have a different hammer than the other trades on the jobsite. :thumbsup:

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http://www.snickersdirect.co.uk/Hultafors-Carpenters-Hammers/Hultafors-Electrician'S-Hammer-EL

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http://www.toolup.com/stiletto-FH10S-10-oz-Titanium-Finish-Hammer-with-Straight-Handle

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http://www.amazon.com/Estwing-E6-24TM-Hammertooth-24-Ounce-Reduction/dp/B00DT0PAIA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458394952&sr=8-1&keywords=estwing+hammertooth

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http://www.amazon.com/TEKTON-30305-Hickory-Magnetic-22-Ounce/dp/B00QI73OHA/

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http://www.toolup.com/Greenlee-0156-11-18-oz-Electricians-Hammer
 
My daily carry hammers are both Estwing: a 2lb drilling hammer and a 20oz bricklayer. Both have been around the block a lot, predating my electrical career. I think the bricklayer is more of an 19oz hammer now, considering how stubby the chisel end is getting.

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My daily carry hammers are both Estwing: a 2lb drilling hammer and a 20oz bricklayer. Both have been around the block a lot, predating my electrical career. I think the bricklayer is more of an 19oz hammer now, considering how stubby the chisel end is getting.
Thank you for your post. I had actually been thinking about starting to use my shorter handled Eastwing bricklayer as an every day carry to replace the 15.5 inch longer handled rip hammer I usually carry but felt the chisel end was just a little bit too long to handle comfortably around interior jobsites. Maybe I should grind it down a bit. :)
 
Thank you for your post. I had actually been thinking about starting to use my shorter handled Eastwing bricklayer as an every day carry to replace the 15.5 inch longer handled rip hammer I usually carry but felt the chisel end was just a little bit too long to handle comfortably around interior jobsites. Maybe I should grind it down a bit. :)
I don't do any residential construction so never had much need of the claw part of a hammer. I see a lot of concrete and CMU so more often than not I end up using my bricklayer as a chisel with a right angle handle :D I can use the drilling hammer to pound on the hammer head, driving the wedge between two whatevers, or chip off protruding concrete drips where I need something to sit flat. Beater, prybar, chisel, also works driving nails the two or three times a year I need to.

My drilling hammer is used for beating on pretty much everything. Also serves as an impromptu anvil. Wrap a sling around the head and I can use it as a slide hammer to, say, yank out an 1-1/4" rotohammer bit that's jammed in a cinder block wall ten feet up.

I've abused the crap out of my hammers for almost 15 years, even prybar sideloading the handle against the skinny dimension

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I must have missed the need for a bricklayers hammer. Can't say there was ever a time I needed one or thought of carrying one. I have always used an Estwing electricians hammer when working on wood framing and a 3lb engineers hammer for most other things. A ballpein or two is great when working on machinery. I will add a 22oz framer is great for working in rough neighborhoods.
 
I probably wouldn't have thought to get one for electrical work if I hadn't already owned it. I have never owned a claw hammer until about a year ago, never really worked with nails enough to need a dedicated driving device.

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I probably wouldn't have thought to get one for electrical work if I hadn't already owned it. I have never owned a claw hammer until about a year ago, never really worked with nails enough to need a dedicated driving device.

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You drive staples and mount boxes with your Kleins ?
 
I mount boxes with either 1/4-20 hardware (sometimes 3/8-16!), selftappers, fuel-air guns or occasionally screws. Staples are only good for holding my prints together, there's a Swingline in the job trailer for that :-D

The only time I've used nails in the past 5 years was to build a portable leveling ramp for a scissor lift. We did not have screws long enough to attach 2x4s together, had to steal nails from the concrete formers.

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markore, how much is amazon paying you to promote them? :whistling2:
Yeah that would have been a great idea but unfortunately those aren't affiliate links and it's too late to edit them now. ;) I was in the middle of making a list for my own use (with links to sites with reviews) and figured i'd just share it on here instead of using evernote for it. After looking them all over I'm actually thinking instead of restocking the vans with these from my local HarborFreight. ($7.99, $2.99, and $4.99, before coupon)
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http://www.harborfreight.com/16-oz-rip-hammer-with-fiberglass-handle-47873.html

I'm getting older... and tired of carrying the larger hammers in the pouch all day just for working with center punches and light stuff.

Figure these may be decent smaller/cheaper/safer candidates to give the helpers for attic crawls and around finished surfaces.

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I've been carrying this craftsman for years and it is a good demo hammer with the flat chisel tip and u-shape head to get up close to walls/ceilings. Its pretty beat up now/ugly looking, and the magnet can no longer hold nails. Its 15.5 inches tall and feels a little heavy to carry on a job where we will be mostly using screws.

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Been using a 3lb jackson engineers/cross pein for drilling.
 
What do you guys use to store your hammers and keep them from rusting?

Anybody use those zrust boxes or gasketed boxes to keep out moisture?

I have heard good things about Bostik DriCote Aerosol Spray to keep hammers from rusting and Bostik GlideCote for drill bits and blades but they are not available in my area.
 
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